No different than having a truck that didn't come with ac. Btw you've posted in the 80-series section.
A/C system - how to remove the cooling unit, evaporator, expansion valve
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No different than having a truck that didn't come with ac. Btw you've posted in the 80-series section.
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- #102
My ac stopped working after I got it recharged at local shop. I turned the heat on a couple days after the freon recharge and when I turned the ac on a few days later the ac stopped and the heat stopped working. I'm sure it has to do with one of these parts- but which would be the most likely one?
It was all working great until the heater was turned on. And I just did rad, fan clutch, thermo- so it's none of that.
It was all working great until the heater was turned on. And I just did rad, fan clutch, thermo- so it's none of that.
Heater fan not working? Doesn't have anything to do with the ac per se. Find the fuse for the fan and check it first
Yeah, no heat or a/c the day after a freon refill. A/c was ice cold and then all quit working. Thought it had to be fuse, relay, or wiring problem etc since it was running perfectly. Checked fuses and seem to be working fine, none blown. Is there a hidden fuse behind the dash, or a relay that goes bad?
Your going to have to be more specific with your post. What exactly isn't working ? The fan doesn't come on in any of the four settings ?
Hey guys,
first of all, hello to the board. I just signed up and this is my first post to the forum.
I drive an 97 HZJ80 and right now, the evaporator core is leaking. I ordered the parts and then found this nice thread.
My last question is about the oil.
I'll bring the car to an A/C shop for testing & refilling after I did the assembly. Do I still need to fill in the oil myself? If so, do I just fill it into the evaporator and the drier before I put them in or how does it work?
Thanks for your help.
Sven
first of all, hello to the board. I just signed up and this is my first post to the forum.
I drive an 97 HZJ80 and right now, the evaporator core is leaking. I ordered the parts and then found this nice thread.
My last question is about the oil.
I'll bring the car to an A/C shop for testing & refilling after I did the assembly. Do I still need to fill in the oil myself? If so, do I just fill it into the evaporator and the drier before I put them in or how does it work?
Thanks for your help.
Sven
Welcome
, and congrats on your first post. Lots of good info on the forum. In fact I just used a pic from this thread to help me out. A good A/C shop should be able to add oil with their charging station. Just make sure they use the correct oil (PAG 46). I believe rule of thumb is to add 2 oz of oil each time a component is removed and replaced.
, and congrats on your first post. Lots of good info on the forum. In fact I just used a pic from this thread to help me out. A good A/C shop should be able to add oil with their charging station. Just make sure they use the correct oil (PAG 46). I believe rule of thumb is to add 2 oz of oil each time a component is removed and replaced.That was quick. Thanks canman!
What are the two flasher relays mounted on top of the evap case? I have the one on the right but not the left, should I have it?
And thanks for this thread btw!
And thanks for this thread btw!
I am about to tear in again soon (should have replaced the evaporator last time), and have a similar question about filling the oil. For those of you who has done it, where and how do you add oil? To evaporator while you have it out?
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Nothing against Beno and Dan (I order from them), but Rock Auto has DENSO Receiver and Driers, DENSO Expansion Valves, and DENSO Condensers for cheap cheap cheap. I did a component each night after work. Since I didn't have gauges and pump, had local shop refill for $70. Cleaned the Evap core with Mean Grean then blew dry with air compressor. Not too bad of a job if you take your time. Put in the UV PAG oil and you can find your own leaks with a black light. Fittings are to get Mineral oil before assembly. If you had compressor failure I would blow lines clean with some solvent to avoid contamination. Cleanliness is next to Godliness.
Wherever happens to be convenient, the evaporator works although trying to get the oil to stay in there while bolting it up might get messy. I like to put the oil into the dryer (if the system is opened it should be replaced anyway). To measure the oil I use a syringe with a little bit of vacuum line on the end, you can suck the oil right out of the bottle and "inject" it wherever you want it (the vacuum line isn't necessary, I had a piece lying around and it fits really nicely on my syringe). The oil circulates freely with the refrigerant so as long as its somewhere in the system its fine.
Question for you guys that have done this. I ordered what I believed was the correct expansion valve from Rock Auto and today finally got the chance to pull this thing apart. Upon inspection the expansion valve I ordered is slightly different then the one I pulled out of my truck. Will this be an issue that it is missing the "hook" at the top? See pictures.
They are identical in size.
They are identical in size.
Cancel Inquiry. Looks like it was just a change in design by Denso. Found my answer here. ND-8 (PAG-46) oil capacity for entire r134 AC system?
I have 2 questions For those who have revamped the A/C.
1) Is there an alternate receiver drier to alleviate the hanging down problem with aftermarket bumpers (sideways orientation option?)
2) Do you find the A/C cold at idle? Mine's OK at highway speeds (50 degrees) but at idle it stinks. Starts warming up to about 60 degrees. I've done the blue fan clutch mod so I rev the motor to 1500-1800 RPM and it cools down again. My wife's 2001 RX300 is cold all the time. I had the system topped off last year and it was colder at speed but no change at idle.
1) Is there an alternate receiver drier to alleviate the hanging down problem with aftermarket bumpers (sideways orientation option?)
2) Do you find the A/C cold at idle? Mine's OK at highway speeds (50 degrees) but at idle it stinks. Starts warming up to about 60 degrees. I've done the blue fan clutch mod so I rev the motor to 1500-1800 RPM and it cools down again. My wife's 2001 RX300 is cold all the time. I had the system topped off last year and it was colder at speed but no change at idle.
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- #118
1) I believe the <'94 years have the drier placed in front of the battery as the oem location
2) I believe I had this issue as well and probably what required me to install the 4Runner electric pusher fan in front of the A/C condenser. 50 deg seems awfully warm even on the hwy, I *think* mine was a tad less than 40deg.
If you spray water on the condenser and if this brings the vent temps down significantly, I think that's an indicator of some type of short coming but not quite sure what that was. I think @Tools R Us educated us on the various symptoms and what they point to. Hopefully he can chime in.
But I wonder if this topic should be on a new thread since there'll be fair amount of troubleshooting coming.
The 94 drier is behind the battery, I was wondering if anyone found a replacement for later years that just oriented it differently in the same location rather than just bending the lines.
Yeah, I'm not trying to hijack with a troubleshooting issue. I have some bearing like noise from the compressor now when the A/C is on and am ready to replace the bearing but the more I read, the more I may just replace the evaporator, compressor, expansion valve, drier, maybe condenser with new. I've baselined the rest of the truck, why not hit the A/C now that it's 120 outside? 