A/C servicing; vacuum, oil and charge system? (2 Viewers)

[fooldall1]

So I replaced the Dryer with Denso and the 2007 uses the larger single piece plug. I couldn't find a torque spec so just snug up plus a little after I felt resistance from O-ring seating. The old plug was a little oily, so I oiled the New O-ring that came with it and cover the plug screen with oil.
View attachment 1697329
View attachment 1697331
The bottom of old Dryer was oily, so I also oiled new a little bit too.
View attachment 1697332 View attachment 1697333
I had removed the discharge tube at condenser and the return line at compressor. So added some oil to compressor (3/4 oz) and some into discharge tube (3/4 oz). I replaced both O-ring with new OEM O-rings after oiling them. In all I added 1 3/4 oz (~4 TLBS) which is about double what I lost.
View attachment 1697335

Thanks man. I missed the post browsing through 5 pages the first time

 

[2001LC]

Yeah long threads get difficult. The Unicorn had so much going on a post in a fashion to reduce post (16 pages & 372 posts), I also put and index in OP.

 

[fooldall1]

Yeah long threads get difficult. The Unicorn had so much going on a post in a fashion to reduce post (16 pages & 372 posts), I also put and index in OP.

Many thanks. Is there a specific replacement cycle you're aware of for the dessicant bag- or just "replace whenever the system is opened or leaking"?

 

[fooldall1]

Fyi.... post leak check and refill... the replacement of the core is successful. Yesterday was 95 degrees with 100% humidity and the system was blowing between 38 and 41 degrees at the vent depending on the rear AC being on or off.

Does the variation of temp mean that th he shop didn't place the right amount of Freon in? They said after the vacuum they placed the right amount of freon based on the factory recommendation. Really, it seems ok but the temp variation makes me think that they perhaps didn't put in enough freon.

 

[flintknapper]

Fyi.... post leak check and refill... the replacement of the core is successful. Yesterday was 95 degrees with 100% humidity and the system was blowing between 38 and 41 degrees at the vent depending on the rear AC being on or off.

Does the variation of temp mean that th he shop didn't place the right amount of Freon in? They said after the vacuum they placed the right amount of freon based on the factory recommendation. Really, it seems ok but the temp variation makes me think that they perhaps didn't put in enough freon.

38-41° is excellent...! Do NOT touch a thing. Count yourself lucky. Many folks would love to have those temps.

Vent temp fluctuation is normal with changing temperatures and/or the operation of the rear unit. Keep your fingers crossed that nothing changes and enjoy your cool air.

 

[bucfl]

@flintknapper

I was not as lucky as @fooldall1 . I have to drive mine for a little bit for it to start blowing really cold but eventually it cools great. Could this be the compressor going bad? The guy at pep boys said it was not sounding good, like bearings were going. The compressor is $350+ and i dont want to keep throwing money at it. Any suggestions? Can i leave it as it for now and replace the compressor when it dies?

Thanks for helping us out here.

 

[fooldall1]

@flintknapper

I was not as lucky as @fooldall1 . I have to drive mine for a little bit for it to start blowing really cold but eventually it cools great. Could this be the compressor going bad? The guy at pep boys said it was not sounding good, like bearings were going. The compressor is $350+ and i dont want to keep throwing money at it. Any suggestions? Can i leave it as it for now and replace the compressor when it dies?

Thanks for helping us out here.

250 On Amazon!

https://www.amazon.com/Denso-471-1220-New-Compressor-Clutch/dp/B001UCBMJK

 

[bucfl]

Thanks man...gonna take a break for now.

 

[fooldall1]

I noticed the bottom of the cover for the evap coil has a small space that allows small drips of water onto the carpet. Was I supposed to put a silicone seal around the cover?

 

[flintknapper]

@flintknapper

I was not as lucky as @fooldall1 . I have to drive mine for a little bit for it to start blowing really cold but eventually it cools great. Could this be the compressor going bad? The guy at pep boys said it was not sounding good, like bearings were going. The compressor is $350+ and i dont want to keep throwing money at it. Any suggestions? Can i leave it as it for now and replace the compressor when it dies?

Thanks for helping us out here.

IF there is something wrong with the compressor (bearings or other internal damage) by the time it 'dies' (read seizes or fails to build pressure) you will have sent metal particles all through the system and will be looking at starting from ground zero to repair.

If you will point me back to your earlier posts or summarize here what you or others have done, I will do my best to help. I simply lose track...after 4-5 members working on their A/C's at pretty much the same time.

Thanks,

Flint

 

[fooldall1]

Today was hot. Still have some annoying dripping on the bottom of the evap cover. It's bolted tight but is still dripping water onto the carpet now. Makes me think that maybe there's a seal or something I'm missing that seals the cover. For now, I just put a bead of silicone on there to prevent dripping.

 

[jerryb]

@fooldall1 I use this on the evap door. The toyota part works well also. Silicone will eventually fail pretty fast. Frost king makes some cording also. It's in the HVAC section at lowes and HD.

 

[bucfl]

Are you getting those temps parked or while moving? I’m 60 parked and like 50 driving at 95 temps.

 

[fooldall1]

@fooldall1 I use this on the evap door. The toyota part works well also. Silicone will eventually fail pretty fast. Frost king makes some cording also. It's in the HVAC section at lowes and HD.

View attachment 1800354

Thanks! That cover was hard enough to get back on there without having to keep cording attached.. but I will give it a shot..

@bucfl , it's just driving around town, 35-40 mph

Are you getting those temps parked or while moving? I’m 60 parked and like 50 driving at 95 temps.

 

[fooldall1]

For the record, I used stainless 1.25 inch mending plate on the cut cross member before remounting the glovebox. Can't even tell it was cut once the GB is reattached.

 

[gatormark91]

Thanks! That cover was hard enough to get back on there without having to keep cording attached.. but I will give it a shot..

@bucfl , it's just driving around town, 35-40 mph

The factory screws won't hold the cover tight enough once they have been in and out of the plastic a couple times. Can't remember what size I bought, but just go down to the local hardware store (Lowe's for me) and get some STAINLESS hex-head sheet metal screws that are slightly oversized from the factory screws. Those will tighten the factory seal down enough again so that it won't leak.

 

[2001LC]

No need to cut dash/frame to remove faceplate of HVAC.
Here you'll see I removed bolt from under carpet to get more wiggle room, I've since done without.
Cabin Air Filter Retrofit Video

There is a drain which gets clogged, it comes out firewall. If you don't see water puddling under vehicle on hot day with A/C on high, it's likely clogged. If you search mud you'll find many ways to clear out.

Leaves/debris may be clogging that need cleaning out.

The factory seal at bottom of cover may need aligning or replacing. If you're careful when removing/installing screws they will last a lifetime. If they get cross thread or stripped out, it enlarges to hole which a plastic filler will correct. A second choice is large screw, but using a large screw may damage case.

Also make sure wire is properly routed or faceplate doesn't seal well.

Many thanks. Is there a specific replacement cycle you're aware of for the dessicant bag- or just "replace whenever the system is opened or leaking"?

NO. Just if system open to service or a leak for extended period. Even then a long vacuum may dry well enough, but for $20 I just replace if system has been opened.

 

[fooldall1]

The factory screws won't hold the cover tight enough once they have been in and out of the plastic a couple times. Can't remember what size I bought, but just go down to the local hardware store (Lowe's for me) and get some STAINLESS hex-head sheet metal screws that are slightly oversized from the factory screws. Those will tighten the factory seal down enough again so that it won't leak.

Thanks Mark!

 

[fooldall1]

No need to cut dash/frame to remove faceplate of HVAC.
Here you'll see I removed bolt from under carpet to get more wiggle room, I've since done without.
Cabin Air Filter Retrofit Video

There is a drain which gets clogged, it comes out firewall. If you don't see water puddling under vehicle on hot day with A/C on high, it's likely clogged. If you search mud you'll find many ways to clear out.
View attachment 1806666
Leaves/debris may be clogging that need cleaning out.
View attachment 1806668
The factory seal at bottom of cover may need aligning or replacing. If you're careful when removing/installing screws they will last a lifetime. If they get cross thread or stripped out, it enlarges to hole which a plastic filler will correct. A second choice is large screw, but using a large screw may damage case.View attachment 1806663

Also make sure wire is properly routed or faceplate doesn't seal well.
View attachment 1806664

NO. Just if system open to service or a leak for extended period. Even then a long vacuum may dry well enough, but for $20 I just replace if system has been opened.

Thanks. What a great site this is.

Thursday, I'm going ahead and replacing the compressor. It seems to be working OK but is making noise that I'm not entirely comfortable with...Sounds like it could fail soon. Wish me luck.

 

[flintknapper]

Thanks. What a great site this is.

Thursday, I'm going ahead and replacing the compressor. It seems to be working OK but is making noise that I'm not entirely comfortable with...Sounds like it could fail soon. Wish me luck.

Smart thing to do.