A/C servicing; vacuum, oil and charge system?

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Seems a lot if you used 16oz cans. Overcharged will impact it's performance too.
Sorry 16oz, was a typo. 3x 12oz = 36oz. So I've estimated 37oz -+1oz. IIRC: 36 oz is only just above minimum capacity.
 
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So I did get to around 45F. After re vacuuming and charging. Used a new: yellow hose and 134a resealable can tap. At first I got the same (52F) then bought new thermostat and saw improvement. But still not 45F or less. Then I add 3 more oz of 134a. Tmep hot ~43F. Seems I was underfilling, by using 3 16oz 12 oz cans. Likely due to loss while bleeding air from H & L lines to manifold and bleeding yellow between can swaps..

Now that COLO requires reseal cans. I can easily stop and store partially used cans.

~45F actually saw it hit the green (~44F) at L35PSI H220PSI
View attachment 3906226

The good thing about charging the system yourself (vs. taking it someplace) is that you can take the time to 'fine tune' the system.

'Chase' the last 2-3 degrees of vent temps. Adding or subtracting small amounts of refrigerant until you reach the point of diminishing returns.

A 'shop' is not going to do that. They want to get the vehicle in and out as quickly as possible.

When you get the vehicle up to highway speed and have had several cabin 'air exchanges', you should see even better temps. Good Job!
 
Sorry 16os, was a typo. 3x 12oz = 36oz. So I've estimated 37oz -+1oz. IIRC: 36 oz is only just above minimum capacity.

With rear air, you are fine up to about 38 ozs. Let the vent temps tell the story. Each system (because of previous service, wear, dirt, grime, etc) will be a little different.
 
07 LC w/ rear air, never hooked up an a/c machine so can’t really comment on state of charge but no complaints on ac performance.
Ambient temp reading between 91-93F
At a stop saw 45-50F, while driving saw 43-47F
Coolant temp 193-197F
 
I'm pretty sold on the 49967 set. It is a good quality analog set with all the features you might need.

To go 'up' from there, you are talking the newer digital sets that can run well over $1K

A good manifold set with good hoses and a 'good' 2 stage vacuum pump is all a person needs to get started IF servicing vehicles for a living. The DIYer/home mechanic that works on systems infrequently can do with less of course.

Most sets don't include the High/Low side connectors....as there are different styles and folks like to choose their own. Don't scrimp there and create a weak link in your equipment.


Pick this NEW Yellow Jacket 49967 Titan up today $160 plus tax

 
Pick this NEW Yellow Jacket 49967 Titan up today $160 plus tax


Be sure to get a set that includes R134a.

Yellow Jacket 49983 TITAN 4-Valve Test and Charging Manifold 3-1/8" Gauges (psi, F) for R-22, R-134a, and R-404A​

 
Be sure to get a set that includes R134a.

Yellow Jacket 49983 TITAN 4-Valve Test and Charging Manifold 3-1/8" Gauges (psi, F) for R-22, R-134a, and R-404A​

Oh NO! I just look to see the 49967. Now I see the listing heading states 49967, but picture of box shows 49867.
Is it just a matter of using/getting R-134a hoses for the manifold?
 
Oh NO! I just look to see the 49967. Now I see the listing heading states 49967, but picture of box shows 49867.
Is it just a matter of using/getting R-134a hoses for the manifold?

No, the gauges themselves need to have a R134a scale on them.
 
Wanted to get some input from the experts here. The AC on my LC is one of the last systems I have not refreshed. Given a big trip coming up I figured I should ensure it is fully functioning.

Originally I thought the interior just ran hot given the amount of glass, but after rereading this thread I saw some references to the expected supply air temps and I am not sure I am getting there.

Obviously checking that is first on the list. I believe @flintknapper recommended trying to hit a 30-deg delta from ambient was a good starting place. Is that at idle or on the highway?

If I confirm I am not getting those temps, how should I move forward? Since I do have some cooling, I assume I am just low on refrigerant and not empty. I was thinking of getting some gauges to check the current charge and topping up. Is it possible that over the 26 years the system has just lost some charge or do I need to go into this assuming there is a leak somewhere?

From the thread I think I understood that some leakage is possible over time. I guess I hope that is all this is. From the service records I have, I could not find any AC recharge or service performed.

Is there a benefit to evacuating the system fully vs topping up?

Also what should I be seeing in the sight glass? I recall something in the FSM, but I honestly need to go back and reread it.
 
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