- Thread starter
- #241
'93 1fz-fe engine knock. Main bearings = toast = cracked crank (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter mudgudgeon
- Start date
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FMC80
SILVER Star
Between moves from one country to another and another move from an island to where I am at now, inventory can get blurred. That and alcohol doesn’t help. I have extra seals and gaskets and bolts and nuts. I’m not send you an extra short block ffsDo you hate money?
Generous offer, thanks
- Thread starter
- #243
Between moves from one country to another and another move from an island to where I am at now, inventory can get blurred. That and alcohol doesn’t help. I have extra seals and gaskets and bolts and nuts. I’m not send you an extra short block ffs
I have trouble keeping up with inventory just moving from one rental to another! That and ordering bits for future use coz " I'm paying for shipping anyway"!!
Pretty sure I haven't overlooked a fresh short block either
- Thread starter
- #244
hey Mr @ToyotaMatt I've struck out on sourcing a few harness connectors. Are these available?
90980-10946 Gray, 5 way (combination of small and large pin sizes)
90980-11295 gray, 3 way. Need both the male and female parts
90980-10945 gray, 5 way
90980-10946 Gray, 5 way (combination of small and large pin sizes)
90980-11295 gray, 3 way. Need both the male and female parts
90980-10945 gray, 5 way
- Thread starter
- #245
On the hoist, ready to go home
Shiny new clutch of my OG engine, asking with a bunch of new sensors, seals, gaskets, hoses etc.
Cannibalized a few small parts of my OG engine. I was hoping to keep things as separate as possible.
Low & slow baby!
Keeping the COG of this thing as close to the ground as I can to move it.
Definitely avoid moving such a big heavy lump up high on a wobbly crane. Sketchy AF
It's in!!
Solo mission. It took me nearly an hour to asking the clutch, and bell housing dowels etc
Once the dowels lined up, it slipped into place place so easily, it was mocking me!
White tape in the oil cap because it still needs oil
Worked on it until midnight last night
Was a long day at work today
Hoping to be ready to start it tonight.
DivByZero
SILVER Star
Been there, done that. Not fun. Choice words were uttered.It took me nearly an hour to asking the clutch, and bell housing dowels etc
Once the dowels lined up, it slipped into place place so easily, it was mocking me!
- Thread starter
- #247
A bunch of spare engine wiring harness connectors turned up yesterday.
Order through Ballenger Motorsports.
Took about a week from USA to my door in Sydney.
Quality looks spot on. And price is very reasonable. Will use these guys again if needed.
They had most of the connectors I needed. I think there was two I wanted for the engine harness they didn't have.
Order through Ballenger Motorsports.
Took about a week from USA to my door in Sydney.
Quality looks spot on. And price is very reasonable. Will use these guys again if needed.
They had most of the connectors I needed. I think there was two I wanted for the engine harness they didn't have.
I like ballinger. Another good option is corsa technic. Huge inventory with a highly developed oem part number cross reference system and great price and customer service.
- Thread starter
- #249
Thanks. I'll see if they have the few I haven't been able to source
- Thread starter
- #250
Well, it's running.
I won't say it's alive yet. It's running on 4 or 5 cylinders.
So, now I gotta trouble shoot
I won't say it's alive yet. It's running on 4 or 5 cylinders.
So, now I gotta trouble shoot
FMC80
SILVER Star
Well shoot. I’m sure you’ll figure it out! Fingers are crossed for you brother!Well, it's running.
I won't say it's alive yet. It's running on 4 or 5 cylinders.
So, now I gotta trouble shoot
Let us know...
Swinging back to the customs issue with parts imported into the US--does anyone have a sense of what price point or weight or volume triggers holds and fees? And what kind of fees are we talking about? Thinking of Partsouq here, but obviously applies to others as well...
FMC80
SILVER Star
Anything over $1,000 USD always flags it for me and I end up paying dues. I think the last invoice I had was $1400 and I ended up paying an additional $40 or so in fees. My memory is usually inebriated.
I remember it as $13-something, so not THAT inebriated. Thanks; I thought it would be worse. (The duty, not the memory.)
I think the value is $800.
You could read about it here:
OP is in Australia
- Thread starter
- #258
Back to figure out this saga.
Tore down my original engine this afternoon to inspect the damage.
Dropped the oil. It was dirty. Poured it out into a second container, and there was a bunch of ground up bearing metal in the bottom of the drain bucket not a good start.
Stripped all the manifold, distributor, thermostat, hoses, small parts, brackets etc
Then took the valve cover off. The top end was dry, very little oil on anything strike two.
At this point, I'm all the way in! No half measures.
Proceeded to remove cams and head.
A couple of cam bearing caps, and corresponding journals are very slightly marred. Journals on the head are perfect.
Pulled the head off. Cylinder walls still look great. No damage visible there.
Pulled the sump pan, and upper sump. The oil pan was loaded with grime from bearings, and a few chunks of toasted bearing!
O ring seal between oil pick up and timing case was fine. Oil pick up screen was clear, no debris in it.
Pulled the timing case. Found the timing chain oil squirter had a shred of bearing metal stuck in the nozzle!
The timing chain sprockets have a slightly burred edge on the drive side of the teeth, hadn't noticed that previously.
The key was in place in the key way for the oil pump drive gear. I have read that if the crank bolt isn't torqued to spec, the oil pump drive gear can slip. This was one thing i was worried about. Clearly not what was happening here when the gear is keyed to the crank.
With the head off, I could barely turn the rotating assembly with a 18" bar on the crank bolt.
Pulled rod caps off, and took pistons and rods out. All but two rod bearings looked pristine.
Two of them had very slight marring on the bearings, and in the crank journal.
Then I pulled main caps off the crank.
No. 1 was flawless
No. 2 has some marring
No. 3 was worse, with some very slight grooving of the crank journal.
No.4 was Ugly! The bearing had spun in the block, and thrust bearings were shredded. The block has some slight damage. The crank journal has very slight grooving on it. Looks like linishing would bring it back.
No. 5 was about the sand as no.3, but grooved the worst of them all.
No. 6 looked on.
No. 7 was flawless.
Ran out of time to take the oil pump apart.
Really perplexed at why I saw oil gauge rise, more than once, but there clearly has been no oil being cirulated, even after using an external pump to prime the oil pump. Really second guessing this!
Some parts clearly still had assembly lube on them.
Quite amazed at how well the assembly lube did its job.
I'll do a bit of cleaning of parts, then will be looking for a machine shop to give everything a check over. Crack test and measure the crank.
My brain is thinking along the lines of a complete head refresh with oversized valves. If the block needs any machining, then I think I'll bore for over size pistons.
If the crank is no good, the idea of a stroker kit is gonna have my brain doing all sorts of gymnastics for weeks
Will post pics later.
Gotta put together a parts list, and put dollars to it. See what the damage is gonna be
Tore down my original engine this afternoon to inspect the damage.
Dropped the oil. It was dirty. Poured it out into a second container, and there was a bunch of ground up bearing metal in the bottom of the drain bucket
not a good start.Stripped all the manifold, distributor, thermostat, hoses, small parts, brackets etc
Then took the valve cover off. The top end was dry, very little oil on anything
strike two.At this point, I'm all the way in! No half measures.
Proceeded to remove cams and head.
A couple of cam bearing caps, and corresponding journals are very slightly marred. Journals on the head are perfect.
Pulled the head off. Cylinder walls still look great. No damage visible there.
Pulled the sump pan, and upper sump. The oil pan was loaded with grime from bearings, and a few chunks of toasted bearing!
O ring seal between oil pick up and timing case was fine. Oil pick up screen was clear, no debris in it.
Pulled the timing case. Found the timing chain oil squirter had a shred of bearing metal stuck in the nozzle!
The timing chain sprockets have a slightly burred edge on the drive side of the teeth, hadn't noticed that previously.
The key was in place in the key way for the oil pump drive gear. I have read that if the crank bolt isn't torqued to spec, the oil pump drive gear can slip. This was one thing i was worried about. Clearly not what was happening here when the gear is keyed to the crank.
With the head off, I could barely turn the rotating assembly with a 18" bar on the crank bolt.
Pulled rod caps off, and took pistons and rods out. All but two rod bearings looked pristine.
Two of them had very slight marring on the bearings, and in the crank journal.
Then I pulled main caps off the crank.
No. 1 was flawless
No. 2 has some marring
No. 3 was worse, with some very slight grooving of the crank journal.
No.4 was Ugly! The bearing had spun in the block, and thrust bearings were shredded. The block has some slight damage. The crank journal has very slight grooving on it. Looks like linishing would bring it back.
No. 5 was about the sand as no.3, but grooved the worst of them all.
No. 6 looked on.
No. 7 was flawless.
Ran out of time to take the oil pump apart.
Really perplexed at why I saw oil gauge rise, more than once, but there clearly has been no oil being cirulated, even after using an external pump to prime the oil pump. Really second guessing this!
Some parts clearly still had assembly lube on them.
Quite amazed at how well the assembly lube did its job.
I'll do a bit of cleaning of parts, then will be looking for a machine shop to give everything a check over. Crack test and measure the crank.
My brain is thinking along the lines of a complete head refresh with oversized valves. If the block needs any machining, then I think I'll bore for over size pistons.
If the crank is no good, the idea of a stroker kit is gonna have my brain doing all sorts of gymnastics for weeks
Will post pics later.
Gotta put together a parts list, and put dollars to it. See what the damage is gonna be
Last edited:
*plugs ears* lalalalalalalalalalaaa
You better get a hustle on, timeline is rapidly shrinking.
- Thread starter
- #260
Well, I figured out my oil pressure problem. At least in part.
Still need to check if any galleries are blocked with debris.
I pulled apart the oil pump. Everything looked OK.
Then I noticed the oil pressure relief valve was partly open.
I used a thin pin punch to try and slide it closed, but it was jammed.
I removed the threaded plug and spring, and pushed a pin punch into the hole to try to move the valve. Still no budge.
Then I tried to push the valve out of its bore, but it was tightly wedged.
I used a long punch to punch it out. It took a couple of decent taps to get it to move.
The valve body/ thimble thingy ?? Looked OK, but had a couple of rub marks in the outer diameter which I think are from being punched out.
I sprayed a bit of brake clean in the bore to clean oil residue out so I could inspect it. The bore in the timing case looked OK.
I tried reinserting the valve, but it jammed before it was all the way in.
About this point it occurred to me that when I rebuilt my power steering pump, the nut on the end of the shaft had worked loose, and rubbed a groove in the back of the timing case. I flipped the case over, and sure enough, that groove coincides with the pressure relief valve. The wall of the relief valve bore seems to have deformed just enough to jam the valve if it ever opened.
It seems that for what ever reason, the relief valve opened on initial start up, and jammed in the bore. From that point on, oil was not being pumped
So, I add timing case assembly to the parts list!
Actually not as expensive as I thought it might be, and the assembly includes oil pump, relief valve, all the studs etc
Groove from power steering shaft nut
oil pressure relief valve stuck open
Aisin timing case assembly $148USD
Still need to check if any galleries are blocked with debris.
I pulled apart the oil pump. Everything looked OK.
Then I noticed the oil pressure relief valve was partly open.
I used a thin pin punch to try and slide it closed, but it was jammed.
I removed the threaded plug and spring, and pushed a pin punch into the hole to try to move the valve. Still no budge.
Then I tried to push the valve out of its bore, but it was tightly wedged.
I used a long punch to punch it out. It took a couple of decent taps to get it to move.
The valve body/ thimble thingy ?? Looked OK, but had a couple of rub marks in the outer diameter which I think are from being punched out.
I sprayed a bit of brake clean in the bore to clean oil residue out so I could inspect it. The bore in the timing case looked OK.
I tried reinserting the valve, but it jammed before it was all the way in.
About this point it occurred to me that when I rebuilt my power steering pump, the nut on the end of the shaft had worked loose, and rubbed a groove in the back of the timing case. I flipped the case over, and sure enough, that groove coincides with the pressure relief valve. The wall of the relief valve bore seems to have deformed just enough to jam the valve if it ever opened.
It seems that for what ever reason, the relief valve opened on initial start up, and jammed in the bore. From that point on, oil was not being pumped
So, I add timing case assembly to the parts list!
Actually not as expensive as I thought it might be, and the assembly includes oil pump, relief valve, all the studs etc
Groove from power steering shaft nut
oil pressure relief valve stuck open
Aisin timing case assembly $148USD
