tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
The wiring may not even be there for it as it also runs through the bcm do some digging
Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (6 Viewers)
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NeverFinis
SILVER Star
I had posted previously about the clearance gap between the @Delta VS front skid plate to the 6L90e transmission pan. See post 4572
I was under the truck yesterday, and there is no evidence of it touching the pan after about 3500 on-road miles. No off-road miles yet...
I happened to look back and saw that the tail of the t-case was resting on the rear skid plate. Not sure how I missed this...it was a last minute install before a 2500 mile road trip..
This is with the engine moved 1.25" further forward compared to where Mark's 4WD mounts would have put the engine.
A 6L90e is 1 3/8" longer than a 6L80e as well. The net result should have been putting the transmission mount close to the original Toyota location.
The transmission mount ended up a bit past where Toyota mount would be. Maybe .25" towards the rear?
No fault of DeltaVS. This is not a typical engine/transmission configuration...
To fix this, and to gain additional clearance at the transmission pan, I designed 304 stainless shims to lift the transmission mount. They will be on the SendCutSend store once I have tested them.
FYI: the engine is at 3° currently with no drivetrain vibrations. I am hoping not to change the angle by that much. Just enough to gain clearance.
I was under the truck yesterday, and there is no evidence of it touching the pan after about 3500 on-road miles. No off-road miles yet...
I happened to look back and saw that the tail of the t-case was resting on the rear skid plate. Not sure how I missed this...it was a last minute install before a 2500 mile road trip..
This is with the engine moved 1.25" further forward compared to where Mark's 4WD mounts would have put the engine.
A 6L90e is 1 3/8" longer than a 6L80e as well. The net result should have been putting the transmission mount close to the original Toyota location.
The transmission mount ended up a bit past where Toyota mount would be. Maybe .25" towards the rear?
No fault of DeltaVS. This is not a typical engine/transmission configuration...
To fix this, and to gain additional clearance at the transmission pan, I designed 304 stainless shims to lift the transmission mount. They will be on the SendCutSend store once I have tested them.
FYI: the engine is at 3° currently with no drivetrain vibrations. I am hoping not to change the angle by that much. Just enough to gain clearance.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
WARNING I've said it before that PSI harness isn't all that great and this isn't the first time I've had a problem first time I was hunting a mis engine seemed like it had a bump stick in it if you don't know what that is ask Ai lol but it didn't anyway it was a fuel injector harness the pin wasn't all the way seated and not getting a good connection didn't take all that long figured it fixed it moved along fast forward to now I've been beating my head again the wall trying to figure out why the ac request wasn't working checking the tune blabla bla I didn't even think for a second to question their wiring come to find out the wire witch is white that's for the ac request in the red ecm main plug was in # 13 not # 17 now it idles up.
Just thought I'd share
Just thought I'd share
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I bought a cheapo $100 Amazon harness for my lm7 dbc in my fj40 just to try.
One of the reviews somebody had diagnosed that there were three wires mis-pinned on the ECU.
That prompted me to check every pin on the ECU and that person was correct, I made those 3 changes and then I found 2 more. Easy fix to repin those five.
It took me a few hours to do it, but I understand the harness and the ECU a lot better now.
Fired it up first try, no codes no errors and runs great. Longevity and quality are obviously TBD as I'm just starting to drive it
Ymmv, maybe I just lucked out.
One of the reviews somebody had diagnosed that there were three wires mis-pinned on the ECU.
That prompted me to check every pin on the ECU and that person was correct, I made those 3 changes and then I found 2 more. Easy fix to repin those five.
It took me a few hours to do it, but I understand the harness and the ECU a lot better now.
Fired it up first try, no codes no errors and runs great. Longevity and quality are obviously TBD as I'm just starting to drive it
Ymmv, maybe I just lucked out.
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Unfortunately this has been my experience as well with more than one of their harnesses. Having to cut into a new harness to see piss poor connections is frustrating. Building harnesses isn't difficult, but when you buy something to save time and it ends up costing you more is no bueno.
Everyone i know that builds hot rods or resto's all say to use speartech if that is the way you're going to go. Which is why I chose them. They test your specific harness before it leaves their facility, they hook it up to the exact engine and trans combo and run it and test it to make sure there are no issues before sending it out.
Is there an optimal Degree to set these engines at? LQ4 and 4L80 swap for me. I ask because I am getting ready to stab the engine in this weekend or next.
BP Automotive does the same thing as well, with quick turnaround times. They send a certificate signing off that it was fully tested and serial numbered in case anything needs to modified or warrantied.
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You measure the transfer case output flange degree from vertical with the stock engine and transmission setup. Then when you install your gm stuff make sure that angle is not changed from stock. Also make sure the new setup is parallel to the frame rails left to right and not cockeyed. So if the engine is set say for example an inch to the right, the tcase and trans should also be an inch to the right.
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
One should consider that the oil pan needs to be level with a slope towards the drain. This is important if you have a flat but angled sump, like my 302-1 knockoff. It assumes a sloped engine. In other words, too much slope may cause oil draining issues.
Ideally, the engine/transmission should be sloped to match the rear axle pinion, within ±0.5°. This assumes a regular driveshaft, and not one with a double cardan joint.
I just took some measurements, relative to a frame rail.
I measured at the yoke, rather than the flange surfaces as my driveshafts are currently installed. Probably not as accurate.
All angles are measured from the front to back, as is standard.
My L96/6L90e is set at -3°.
This means the front output of the T-case points up at -3° and the rear output points down at -3°
Rear Axle Pinion: -3°
Front Axle Pinion: +5°
Front Axle Caster: +4.4°
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Just make sure when you're measuring drivetrain angles you zero out your angle finder on chassis zero first. An easy place to do this is on the threshold of the cabin doors.
80 series use very unique drivetrain angles compared to pretty much all other vehicles. That's why 80 series ujoints go 300k miles and AWD is smooth and quiet at 80MPH.
80 series use very unique drivetrain angles compared to pretty much all other vehicles. That's why 80 series ujoints go 300k miles and AWD is smooth and quiet at 80MPH.
Well seeing as how my transfer case is out of the vehicle and the stock engine and trans is just hanging by the motor mounts currently. Im unsure how to do this. Lol
I bought the Selkirk offroad crossmember and I’m using cruisermatts engine mounts. Lq4 and 4l80 setup.
I’m pulling engine and trans this weekend because I have someone who wants to buy it.
My drain bolt in my pan is on the bottom of the pan. Modified pan from marks adapters. My truck is already torn apart partly.
Think of it like a coordinate system.
You need to measure you're angles incrementally, not absolute.
Absolute, your "zero" would be the bisection of the curvature of the planet earth. You don't care about that one bit. Level has nothing to do with what you're doing.
You care about the relative angle of the engine to the angle of the frame.
The angle of the frame moves all over the place. It changes when you roll the frame 10 feet away. It changes when your kid crawls inside while you're measuring.
Another consideration is engine mounts compress, usually about 1/8", some more like 1/4", with the weight of the engine on them.
Sorry guys. I have been reading this thread for hours and I can’t find anything that anyone has done to adapt the later style hi/lo shifter to the marks 4l80 t case adapter. I know it was meant for the earlier years shifter. And I see what 808keith did with the earlier style shifter. My question and thought is to create an oversized plate that bolts to the adapter and then have the shifter bolt to the plate outside of the adapter. But that wont work because the shifter’s base covers the holes on the adapter.
Should I shell the cash out for a 94 model shifter?? I’d rather not
View attachment 3961442
View attachment 3961443
Should I shell the cash out for a 94 model shifter?? I’d rather not
View attachment 3961442
View attachment 3961443
Nevermind. I’m a dingus. The plate he made was to bolt to the adapter so he could keep the shifter up where it’s supposed to be, because it doesn’t line up with the cab of the truck properly. So this bolts to the adapter and then I make a plate wide enough and strong enough for my shifter to bolt too
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
I believe @wiynwiyn also used the later shifter. Japan meets America (Ls Swap) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/japan-meets-america-ls-swap.1350090/post-15704881
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
The bracket works half ass
What do you mean?
