Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (13 Viewers)

[goranvolvo]

At the time of that picture, no, it was not there, while doing some test runs with the fan clutch fully engaged I managed to tear the fan against the shroud with some high throttle; I reworked the shroud adding more tolerance for the blade flex, purchased a second fan and so far it has behaved.

Here are some pictures of how its running now.
View attachment 2044099

Side view - I know the welds are ugly, once test runs are complete, I'll disassemble, smoothen the welds and have the shroud anodized black .
View attachment 2044100

Still need to invest time on the electronic side, lots of details pending:
- Shift indicator thru Range Switches from transmission.
- PWR button to activate Performance mode, turning PWR bulb on at dash, and defaulting off every ignition cycle.
- 4Lo and Torque converter Lock up relays



Regarding intake temperatures, I did some torture tests last weekend, idling for 1.5hours at 120*F ambient temperature, hood closed, AC full blast, Aux Fan ON, intake temperatures climbed up to ~160* no effect; after the idling period I did some laps around the block, no performance effect observed, only the fan clutch roaring constantly.



Im using Dirty Dingo ones, pretty nice, im positive a 50 or 100rpm's adjustment will fix the vibration issue; while in park, there is little to no vibration, If I increase thru the pedal aboyt 100rpms it smoothens out.

-Emerson


Damaged Fan...
View attachment 2044101

this is your best solution for heat i did not have overheating problems but did not like it running at 210-215 F now it runs at 195 F in 88 F wheater and i did pull my boat no difference in temperature that hole in the hood made big difference problem is the engine is big and takes a lot off room and hot air does not have much room to move out
and there is distance shroud to fan blade for maximum efficiency i do not remember the distance but you can google it

 

[Matt Crandall]

What did you source the hood scoop from? Looks great, I had considered this for sure.

In traffic yesterday and it was 90 degrees out, I had 155-160 intake temp, crazy hot.

Are you running the stock radiator? I have the stock rad and a good dual fan set up.

thanks for your input

 

[goranvolvo]

i have stock radiator and extreme duty fan clutch ,Hood Scoop is off ford mustang 2001-2004

 

[tmxmotorsports]

i have stock radiator and extreme duty fan clutch ,Hood Scoop is off ford mustang 2001-2004

I am not much of a hood scoop guy maybe on old school muscle cars but yours does actually look good looks kinda factory also to bad you said the f word lol

 

[steve604]

Anyone had any experience with this rad? I am wondering if their fans push enough CFM Aluminum Radiator + Fan Shroud For Toyota Landcruiser 80 SERIES FJ FZJ80R 93-97 763852617696 | eBay

 

[goranvolvo]

Anyone had any experience with this rad? I am wondering if their fans push enough CFM Aluminum Radiator + Fan Shroud For Toyota Landcruiser 80 SERIES FJ FZJ80R 93-97 763852617696 | eBay

that setup looks like por design , the shroud is to close to radiator so on freeway speed air will not flow thru whole radiator it will bounce off the shroud and you will get high temperature reading plus fan will probably run 90 % off the time

 

[aktundra]

What are folks doing for an air filter housing ? I’ve done all I can to lower the profile of a stock air box, but still seems to be too high, and keeping the hood from latching properly.

I assume there is a K&N option, but not as interested in something engineered for high-flow, that may sacrifice high filtration in high dust environments

 

[steve604]

I've been thinking about getting one of these to hook up to my snorkel. The rated CFM should be enough to feed most stock LS motors Amazon product ASIN B0035GS6RU

 

[thatcabledude]

I've been thinking about getting one of these to hook up to my snorkel. The rated CFM should be enough to feed most stock LS motors Amazon product ASIN B0035GS6RU

That will work. Used one on a 5.3 swapped K5 Blazer that funny enough uses a 80series snorkel that was heated and bent to fit K5 body lines.

What are folks doing for an air filter housing ? I’ve done all I can to lower the profile of a stock air box, but still seems to be too high, and keeping the hood from latching properly.

I assume there is a K&N option, but not as interested in something engineered for high-flow, that may sacrifice high filtration in high dust environments

I don’t understand. Why does the stock airbox not let the hood close?

 

[aktundra]

@thatcabledude i was asking myself the same question after I posted the question. Wondering now, if I have the stock box, and whether it ever fit !! (Bought a junker for this swap).

Just have not been outside to relook. Seems no reason the stock box in the stock location should not fit

 

[cme4lyt]

What are folks doing for an air filter housing ? I’ve done all I can to lower the profile of a stock air box, but still seems to be too high, and keeping the hood from latching properly.

I assume there is a K&N option, but not as interested in something engineered for high-flow, that may sacrifice high filtration in high dust environments

Use the std air box, that’s what I’m using, see no reason not to....

 

[aktundra]

How are you folks mapping the intake for the LS to the standard air filter housing ?
See the black smudge on top of the air intake, where the dirt’s been rubbed off ? Matching clean black spot under the hood? This is where my Clearance issue keeps the hood from properly closing.

 

[Oscar Witte]

i

How are you folks mapping the intake for the LS to the standard air filter housing ?
See the black smudge on top of the air intake, where the dirt’s been rubbed off ? Matching clean black spot under the hood? This is where my Clearance issue keeps the hood from properly closing.

View attachment 2063326

I just trimmed down the elbow on the cleaner down as much as possible and took the rubber insulators out of the air cleaner feet to drop it lower. I have a small line that still rubs but the hood fully closes and I haven't had any issues in over a year. I don'd run the fiberglass heat shield on the hood though. If you still have issues you could possibly trim the ribbing under the hood or go for one of those fancy serpentine head couplings. Best of luck.

 

[thatcabledude]

How are you folks mapping the intake for the LS to the standard air filter housing ?
See the black smudge on top of the air intake, where the dirt’s been rubbed off ? Matching clean black spot under the hood? This is where my Clearance issue keeps the hood from properly closing.

View attachment 2063326

I left the lid factory.

 

[steve604]

'95-'97 had a better design for the top of the lid that fits perfectly. '94 and older is useless.

 

[thatcabledude]

'95-'97 had a better design for the top of the lid that fits perfectly. '94 and older is useless.

Yeah true. I should have said I used a factory 95+ lid

 

[BajaCruiser94]

Hey guys, while finishing all the details on the LQ9/4L65 swap, a couple of questions came up:

1.- Transfer Case Shifting - Seems that I cant shift the lever while the engine is on; I get the grinding gears sound like if the tranny was in movement when its actually in Neutral, I can only shift from High to Neutral and then neither to High again nor Low range; may it be something related with the fact that I havent wired the A/T P circuit nor the dash lights? Am I missing something else?
If I turn of engine, switch the lever to 4Lo and turn on again, CDL turns on, and everything works normally. weird.

2.- While wiring the Pin16 on the Vortec ECM for the 4Lo signal, I noticed that while not in 4Lo I get voltage in the wire I tapped in running to the light bulb (IH1 Plug pin 3 (Yellow/Black); and while in 4Lo I do get the negative output needed for the ECM; is there any negative effect of running it like this, or should I add a relay or diode?

-Emerson

 

[bryson]

Sounds to me like you just need to shut the engine off, shift the t-case into gear and then start the engine again. Even in neutral (transmission) with the engine running it's possible to get the grinding when you try to shift the t-case into any gear from neutral.

IIRC, there is enough fluid pressure and friction to spin the internals when both the trans and t-case are in neutral with the engine running.

 

[goranvolvo]

Hey guys, while finishing all the details on the LQ9/4L65 swap, a couple of questions came up:

1.- Transfer Case Shifting - Seems that I cant shift the lever while the engine is on; I get the grinding gears sound like if the tranny was in movement when its actually in Neutral, I can only shift from High to Neutral and then neither to High again nor Low range; may it be something related with the fact that I havent wired the A/T P circuit nor the dash lights? Am I missing something else?
If I turn of engine, switch the lever to 4Lo and turn on again, CDL turns on, and everything works normally. weird.

2.- While wiring the Pin16 on the Vortec ECM for the 4Lo signal, I noticed that while not in 4Lo I get voltage in the wire I tapped in running to the light bulb (IH1 Plug pin 3 (Yellow/Black); and while in 4Lo I do get the negative output needed for the ECM; is there any negative effect of running it like this, or should I add a relay or diode?

-Emerson

there is no way the transmission is in neutral if you get grinding

 

[BajaCruiser94]

there is no way the transmission is in neutral if you get grinding

Well, I can shift into reverse (up) and (down) into drive; and in the "neutral" shifter gate the Transmission is not reacting to throttle; I also wondered if it was in fact neutral, it seems it is; just cant figure out this effect.

-Emerson