Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (31 Viewers)

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I built my own mounts and put the engine right where I wanted it. %.3L /6L80E with marks adapter. redrilled crossmember holes about 1" forward and 3/4" to passenger side and made sure drivetrain parallel with chassis. The slight offset to passenger was to get the truck acces. to clear the inside of frame rails. A/c on lower pass, P/s on lower drivers. It just worked out easier for me that way. No issue with F body oil pan or truck intake clearance. Its been 2 years since done

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Thanks for your help. Probably do a write up later regarding this marks4wd adapter

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Does anyone know what this "center diff lock indicator switch" is, and what I need to do with the three white and black wires? I only have the transfer case harness up to right where the three wires are splices into one. Thanks.
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The ones wrapped in yellow tape in this picture. From what I can tell it looks like they all get grounded?

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Does anyone know what this "center diff lock indicator switch" is, and what I need to do with the three white and black wires? I only have the transfer case harness up to right where the three wires are splices into one. Thanks.
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you can see on that diagram white-black wire is ground
and center diff lock indicator switch is the switch for light on dash when you lock your transfer case
why did you cut all that wire ?
 
you can see on that diagram white-black wire is ground
and center diff lock indicator switch is the switch for light on dash when you lock your transfer case
why did you cut all that wire ?
I sold it with the engine/tranny. May or may not have been a good idea, oh well.
 
LT1SWAP
but i m not happy with all settings what is done so it was somewhat waste off money now i ' m looking for HP tunes so i can do everything by myself

You will love HPTuners
 
wiring the fuel pump today, how do most of you guys do it? Have you tapped in to the toyota harness at the fuel pump relay or just ran your own wire back to the pump? if the latter, what guage wire back to the pump? Thanks!!
 
I used the toyota pump so I made the toyota wiring work but it's overly complicated for no good reason.

Run a new #12 with a new relay triggered by the gm ecu
 
I used the toyota pump so I made the toyota wiring work but it's overly complicated for no good reason.

Run a new #12 with a new relay triggered by the gm ecu
I’m running it through a new relay, just surprised how small the wire going back to the pump is on the Toyota harness. Seems like a #16 or 18!!
 
i m using original fuel pump and original relay if you look at specifications for LC fuel pump and GM truck ,toyota pump is pushing more pressure , i tested the flow and there is enough fuel to run V8 with 5/16 fuel line

only modification i did to original relay is i made it to run full voltage to pump because the relay was two step system at light throttle it sends lower voltage to pump reason for that was to make the pump to run cooler and quieter
 
i m using original fuel pump and original relay if you look at specifications for LC fuel pump and GM truck ,toyota pump is pushing more pressure , i tested the flow and there is enough fuel to run V8 with 5/16 fuel line

only modification i did to original relay is i made it to run full voltage to pump because the relay was two step system at light throttle it sends lower voltage to pump reason for that was to make the pump to run cooler and quieter
Is the purpose of the fuel pump resistor in the engine bay for the two step system? If so couldn't you just bypass the resistor?
 
Is the purpose of the fuel pump resistor in the engine bay for the two step system? If so couldn't you just bypass the resistor?
I got rid of the resistor in the engine bay over by the power antenna. I cut the plug off going to the resistor and took out all the fuel pump wiring EXCEPT for the wire running from the resistor plug all the way back to the original fuel pump. My new aftermarket harness, like most, comes with a fuel pump relay and a fuel pump output ( + ) wire. I connected that with a nice weather pack 1 wire connector the the original wire I cut off the resistor plug. Works great .No fuel pump problems in 2 years. Long story short, the resistor is the last stop in the circuit befor the the pump and a good place to connect your new harness up too after all the toyota interlocks and relays.
 
OPINION

Why you guys mess around using the Toyota OEM wiring to operate things like the fuel pump is beyond me. The GM ECU has an output for the fuel pump, use it to trigger a new relay that sends power to the fuel pump either direct from the battery or a secondary fuse block that you install. Do yourself a favor and run a 3 wire bundle back to the pump. 12V+, ground to battery and fuel sender. I use 12 g for the power and ground. This way you know you are covered.

Keeping the swap set up independent from the OEM electrical is the cleanest and easiest way to do it and be able to diagnose any problems down the line. Imagine being the guy that buys this truck from you and trying to figure out exactly what the hell you did to power the fuel pump when it craps out.
 
my LC was runing for 27 years on same wire i m guessing with no problems and all i did changed trigger suplay from LC ECU to GM ECU
everything else is OEM ,so only one wire from GM ECU goes to LC fuel pump relay and all done cant get any simpler, no wire chopping, no need to run new wires
to diagnose it just use OEM toyota wiring diagram
 
My LC ain't for sale and I know what I did. It's working great with the stock pump, wiring and fuel lines. I can easily pull up the original wiring diagrams to troubleshoot if needed.
 
I am finishing up my LS Swap in my 91 Fj80. I drove it around the block, pretty exciting!. My plan to use a Dakota tack adapter for the stock tach. I found the wire on the back of the dash and hooked up the adapter in several different ways. Best result was the Tach would come to life at about the correct RPM run for two seconds then go dead. Any ideas? Also what are you guys using for a Neutral Safety Switch set up?
thanks for any input
 
I am finishing up my LS Swap in my 91 Fj80. I drove it around the block, pretty exciting!. My plan to use a Dakota tack adapter for the stock tach. I found the wire on the back of the dash and hooked up the adapter in several different ways. Best result was the Tach would come to life at about the correct RPM run for two seconds then go dead. Any ideas? Also what are you guys using for a Neutral Safety Switch set up?
thanks for any input
you must use 1994 and up tachometer 1991 is using high voltage to run tachometer so any 1994-1997 open the cluster swap only tachometer put it back together
seating on dakota digital is IN-4 cyl OUT-6 cyl 519 set to LO and output signal on HI
this is what you need if you look around you may find cheaper one
1996 Toyota Land Cruiser & Lexus LX450 Tachometer Gauge | eBay
for neutral safety , what transmission r you using and what year
 

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