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I built my own mounts and put the engine right where I wanted it. %.3L /6L80E with marks adapter. redrilled crossmember holes about 1" forward and 3/4" to passenger side and made sure drivetrain parallel with chassis. The slight offset to passenger was to get the truck acces. to clear the inside of frame rails. A/c on lower pass, P/s on lower drivers. It just worked out easier for me that way. No issue with F body oil pan or truck intake clearance. Its been 2 years since done
View attachment 1718808
Who flashed your ecu for you?
LT1SWAPWho flashed your ecu for you?
you can see on that diagram white-black wire is groundDoes anyone know what this "center diff lock indicator switch" is, and what I need to do with the three white and black wires? I only have the transfer case harness up to right where the three wires are splices into one. Thanks.
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I sold it with the engine/tranny. May or may not have been a good idea, oh well.you can see on that diagram white-black wire is ground
and center diff lock indicator switch is the switch for light on dash when you lock your transfer case
why did you cut all that wire ?
LT1SWAP
but i m not happy with all settings what is done so it was somewhat waste off money now i ' m looking for HP tunes so i can do everything by myself
I’m running it through a new relay, just surprised how small the wire going back to the pump is on the Toyota harness. Seems like a #16 or 18!!I used the toyota pump so I made the toyota wiring work but it's overly complicated for no good reason.
Run a new #12 with a new relay triggered by the gm ecu
Is the purpose of the fuel pump resistor in the engine bay for the two step system? If so couldn't you just bypass the resistor?i m using original fuel pump and original relay if you look at specifications for LC fuel pump and GM truck ,toyota pump is pushing more pressure , i tested the flow and there is enough fuel to run V8 with 5/16 fuel line
only modification i did to original relay is i made it to run full voltage to pump because the relay was two step system at light throttle it sends lower voltage to pump reason for that was to make the pump to run cooler and quieter
I got rid of the resistor in the engine bay over by the power antenna. I cut the plug off going to the resistor and took out all the fuel pump wiring EXCEPT for the wire running from the resistor plug all the way back to the original fuel pump. My new aftermarket harness, like most, comes with a fuel pump relay and a fuel pump output ( + ) wire. I connected that with a nice weather pack 1 wire connector the the original wire I cut off the resistor plug. Works great .No fuel pump problems in 2 years. Long story short, the resistor is the last stop in the circuit befor the the pump and a good place to connect your new harness up too after all the toyota interlocks and relays.Is the purpose of the fuel pump resistor in the engine bay for the two step system? If so couldn't you just bypass the resistor?
you must use 1994 and up tachometer 1991 is using high voltage to run tachometer so any 1994-1997 open the cluster swap only tachometer put it back togetherI am finishing up my LS Swap in my 91 Fj80. I drove it around the block, pretty exciting!. My plan to use a Dakota tack adapter for the stock tach. I found the wire on the back of the dash and hooked up the adapter in several different ways. Best result was the Tach would come to life at about the correct RPM run for two seconds then go dead. Any ideas? Also what are you guys using for a Neutral Safety Switch set up?
thanks for any input