Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (16 Viewers)

[bloc]

Road Racing an LS3 SS - LS1TECH
^Kinda apples to oranges there, but I figure wheeling a truck could put oil levels in similar territory. Of course you probably won't be running the same RPM as someone scooting around a track, but you could find yourself sitting at a pretty healthy angle for a bit while waiting for a spotter or something.

that seems like a great thread but you are right, apples/oranges. My biggest concern as you mentioned would be healthy inclines... for which a single deep sump is preferred. The only way a road race car would see that particular vector (incorrect word?) of gravity/acceleration would be on actual acceleration.. and I don't think they would quite see the same total forces in that direction.

I also plan to see whether I can make a different pickup tube work in the LS3 pan. If I could get it further toward the rear I'd feel ok with the location at steep angles.. but not all the way back so the engine doesn't dry out going downhill (even if we typically see less RPMs in that scenario)

 

[Squad1]

Has everyone been using the Dakota Digital tach interface to get a stable tach signal with your LS swap? Do you get a 3 second delay before your factory tach displays rpm? Must be the process of going through the box that causes this. Just curious.

We tried the MSD and the Dakota and liked the Dakota better.

Finally got my tach working today
Just a follow up to the tach issue. I have the Dakota Digital SGI-8E and a gen IV e38 ecm 5.3L
I had no tach signal comimg out of the computer. I found this write up on another forum and am copying it here because it was very informative and gave me the solution to making the tach work. I did not need a pull up resistor, we just selected the "crank" option and plugged in the 14/15 and got a nice outplut signal to the DD box. I am still working through understanding how all the math works. It seams that the DD box is able to read the output signal and ampliyfy and modify it so the toyoat tach shows the correct speed. I suppose it is possible to adjust the parameters in the ecm to get it to output the correct frequency for the toyota tach ,but since i already had the DD box installed I just went with it. I am also concluding that without the DD box you would need to use the pull up resistor to boost the signal. I did not verify this though
Hope this helps someone else

GEN IV E38 Tach Settings for aftermarket tach (autometer)

 

[Squad1]

that seems like a great thread but you are right, apples/oranges. My biggest concern as you mentioned would be healthy inclines... for which a single deep sump is preferred. The only way a road race car would see that particular vector (incorrect word?) of gravity/acceleration would be on actual acceleration.. and I don't think they would quite see the same total forces in that direction.

I also plan to see whether I can make a different pickup tube work in the LS3 pan. If I could get it further toward the rear I'd feel ok with the location at steep angles.. but not all the way back so the engine doesn't dry out going downhill (even if we typically see less RPMs in that scenario)

this is just my experience on oil pans ,but I thought I would share it in case it makes your choice easier. In my jeep with a 6.0L (and my buddies off road truck too) we run the stock f body pans and have had no oil starvation issues or pickup /pressure problems. We wheel all over new england and are doing crazy up hill and down hill climbs with out incident. I'm talking off camber, hill climbs side hills you name it and no oil related problems. Don't over think the problem, keep it simple. GM put a lot of design into it and it works very well. Even though the f body pan came on a car, it looks very similar to the truck version ,just without the deeper sump. I will drop the front of my jeep down into a hole and not worry at all that it will still have plenty of oil. I can assure you that you won't be disappointed with the performance in you 80. Just my opinion and experience

 

[thatcabledude]

that seems like a great thread but you are right, apples/oranges. My biggest concern as you mentioned would be healthy inclines... for which a single deep sump is preferred. The only way a road race car would see that particular vector (incorrect word?) of gravity/acceleration would be on actual acceleration.. and I don't think they would quite see the same total forces in that direction.

I also plan to see whether I can make a different pickup tube work in the LS3 pan. If I could get it further toward the rear I'd feel ok with the location at steep angles.. but not all the way back so the engine doesn't dry out going downhill (even if we typically see less RPMs in that scenario)

I just linked that thread because it is of many discussing the LS3s oil starvation issue when pushed hard in long sweeping corners on a track. Not accelerating. I related that to being similar to sitting off camber on a trail. Not sure if it all has to do with the pan and pickup location, just giving you food for thought.

 

[bloc]

My issue with the f-body pan, despite it being proven to fit and as you state work well at angles, is the lack of secondary relief valve that is apparently needed with my engine. Also, relatively small sump. The LS3 pan I wanted to run should allow 8 qts vs 5 on the f-body.

It looks like the pickup is in the same spot on both.. only the sump itself is deeper on the LS3.. I'll just get one and see how it works.

 

[bloc]

I just linked that thread because it is of many discussing the LS3s oil starvation issue when pushed hard in long sweeping corners on a track. Not accelerating. I related that to being similar to sitting off camber on a trail. Not sure if it all has to do with the pan and pickup location, just giving you food for thought.

Oh yeah.. don't get me wrong.. it's very good discussion.

I went down the rabbithole a bit more from that thread.. according to this post: LS3 oiling problems, dry sumps legal in SCCA - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion
The stock LS3 engine and pan is designed for sustained cornering of 1.1-1.2G. That's roughly a 45* side-slope. Having rolled my truck once I can't see getting that sideways very often on purpose.

Also supposedly the guys having oiling issues with the LS3s are doing 1.5-1.6G on race tires. Crazy.

But yes.. I'll be sourcing an LS3 pan and parts to see if it will fit in my swap for the increased capacity. Obviously will make it in here or a build thread with results whether it works or not.

 

[azcrackshot]

Finally got my tach working today
Just a follow up to the tach issue. I have the Dakota Digital SGI-8E and a gen IV e38 ecm 5.3L
I had no tach signal comimg out of the computer. I found this write up on another forum and am copying it here because it was very informative and gave me the solution to making the tach work. I did not need a pull up resistor, we just selected the "crank" option and plugged in the 14/15 and got a nice outplut signal to the DD box. I am still working through understanding how all the math works. It seams that the DD box is able to read the output signal and ampliyfy and modify it so the toyoat tach shows the correct speed. I suppose it is possible to adjust the parameters in the ecm to get it to output the correct frequency for the toyota tach ,but since i already had the DD box installed I just went with it. I am also concluding that without the DD box you would need to use the pull up resistor to boost the signal. I did not verify this though
Hope this helps someone else

GEN IV E38 Tach Settings for aftermarket tach (autometer)

Squad1 go back look at my post on page 10 post 190. LOL I copied and pasted that for you a while back.

 

[Squad1]

Thanks, My apologies you did post that. I forgot. It came up when I did a google search for tach problems with the E 38. I/m thankful there are a good group of folks on her with so much info to share. It has made this process much more enjoyable.

 

[mikedamageinc]

that seems like a great thread but you are right, apples/oranges. My biggest concern as you mentioned would be healthy inclines... for which a single deep sump is preferred. The only way a road race car would see that particular vector (incorrect word?) of gravity/acceleration would be on actual acceleration.. and I don't think they would quite see the same total forces in that direction.

I also plan to see whether I can make a different pickup tube work in the LS3 pan. If I could get it further toward the rear I'd feel ok with the location at steep angles.. but not all the way back so the engine doesn't dry out going downhill (even if we typically see less RPMs in that scenario)

Different method but seems to have the same result, not enough oil at the pickup. Racing just pushes the oil away from the pickup and climbing also pushes the oil away. Here is cheap insurance that most LS cars use for racing and should help for off camber driving: LS1 Camaro / Firebird (F-Body) Racing Oil Pan Baffle EGM-200

It has little trap doors that help keep oil closer to the pickup. They have one to fit pretty much any style LS pan. They also sell a crank scraper that can help too. And if you really want to get serious about it, get an accusump with low pressure sensor to automatically push in a couple extra quarts.

 

[bloc]

Is there a widely considered "best" power steering pump for Vortec swaps with the truck (high alternator, low PS pump) accessories?

My 'slade pump is leaking and I'll want to replace it.. thing is the stock pump has a pre-bent hard-line brazed to the back for the PS fluid return and while I haven't test-fit yet it looks like it'll run right into the PS box.

Are people using a different pump that has maybe screw-in fittings for both the HP and return lines?

 

[azcrackshot]

Is there a widely considered "best" power steering pump for Vortec swaps with the truck (high alternator, low PS pump) accessories?

My 'slade pump is leaking and I'll want to replace it.. thing is the stock pump has a pre-bent hard-line brazed to the back for the PS fluid return and while I haven't test-fit yet it looks like it'll run right into the PS box.

Are people using a different pump that has maybe screw-in fittings for both the HP and return lines?

Let me talk to my builder. My invoice says Chevy Performance power steering pump $354.00. I will get a part number. The mount is an OEM alternator/power steering pump bracket $106.26 plus hardware $63.00. They did clearance a small area on my PS box below the PS pulley for the pulley and belt to clear.

 

[Squad1]

Is there a widely considered "best" power steering pump for Vortec swaps with the truck (high alternator, low PS pump) accessories?

My 'slade pump is leaking and I'll want to replace it.. thing is the stock pump has a pre-bent hard-line brazed to the back for the PS fluid return and while I haven't test-fit yet it looks like it'll run right into the PS box.

Are people using a different pump that has maybe screw-in fittings for both the HP and return lines?

I'm using the stock "p" series gm pump that came on my 2013 avalanche engine. pretty much the same pump that's been used for years. I did rebend the return line slightly to clear the steering box. It really wasn't a big deal just tweaked it a little tighter to the pump. I used an o ring to an #6 adapter on the pump and an inverted flare to an #6 adaptor on the box and connected the two with 36 an high pressure power steering hose. The teflon stuff with the stainless braid and field attachable aeroquip fittings. The steering works just like stock.

 

[bulhas]

i have the PSC p-pump hydroboost setup with goatbilt mounts

 

[Joshwho44]

Has anyone seen this ECU / TCU system before: Ultimate LS Induction Systems – FiTech Fuel Injection? It's a complete EFI system for the LS V8 with GM transmissions, but it doesn't appear to be available yet.

 

[Squad1]

I've heard of the company before. Looks cool and the price isn't bad. Does it have an obdII plug for emissions? If you need that

 

[thatcabledude]

Seen the self learning TBI versions that replace a carb.

 

[bloc]

Wanted to post on some GenIV alternator stuff I'm running across in the process of researching.

GenIV engines appear to have a 2-wire alternator that is controlled with a combination of ECM and BCM (body control module) PWM inputs. I plan to use the BCM for cruise/TUTD control but I'm not confident it'll have all of the parts necessary to control the alternator.. and on swaps I'm reading about this often causes the alternator to go into a failsafe mode where it won't produce above 13.8V

The good thing is the DR44 alternator is easy to swap the Voltage Regulators on. A "D3579" (about $39 online) can easily be installed with one solder joint and some trimming of the stock plastic rear alternator cover. This converts the alternator into a traditional 3 or 4-wire setup, for which you can get a pigtail.

IMPORTANT NOTE: there needs to be a resistor installed on the B or L Lamp circuit.. otherwise it can ruin the VR.

Details on this actual swap: http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1574678-my-1965-buick-skylark-l92-6l80-swap-27.html#post18710772

Another 4-wire swap, using a different VR and a lot more work, but has good info: Gen IV Swap -- Alternator Wiring - TriFive.com, 1955 Chevy 1956 chevy 1957 Chevy Forum , Talk about your 55 chevy 56 chevy 57 chevy - Belair , 210, 150 sedans , Nomads and Trucks, Research, Free Tech Advice

Again, this should only apply to GEN4 engines. Gen3 is more traditional, as far as I can tell.

 

[FJ60Cam]

Wanted to post on some GenIV alternator stuff I'm running across in the process of researching.

GenIV engines appear to have a 2-wire alternator that is controlled with a combination of ECM and BCM (body control module) PWM inputs. I plan to use the BCM for cruise/TUTD control but I'm not confident it'll have all of the parts necessary to control the alternator.. and on swaps I'm reading about this often causes the alternator to go into a failsafe mode where it won't produce above 13.8V

The good thing is the DR44 alternator is easy to swap the Voltage Regulators on. A "D3579" (about $39 online) can easily be installed with one solder joint and some trimming of the stock plastic rear alternator cover. This converts the alternator into a traditional 3 or 4-wire setup, for which you can get a pigtail.

IMPORTANT NOTE: there needs to be a resistor installed on the B or L Lamp circuit.. otherwise it can ruin the VR.

Details on this actual swap: My 1965 Buick Skylark L92/6L80 Swap - Page 27 - LS1TECH
Another 4-wire swap, using a different VR and a lot more work, but has good info: Gen IV Swap -- Alternator Wiring - TriFive.com, 1955 Chevy 1956 chevy 1957 Chevy Forum , Talk about your 55 chevy 56 chevy 57 chevy - Belair , 210, 150 sedans , Nomads and Trucks, Research, Free Tech Advice

Again, this should only apply to GEN4 engines. Gen3 is more traditional, as far as I can tell.

Thanks for the link and the reminder to do this to mine. I've been running in default mode for two years. It's one of those things I meant to do, but never did.

Edit: new VR & harness pigtail inbound!

 

[bloc]

Also, i found a FANTASTIC pinout chart (it's practically a complete how-to on wiring a GenIV ECM and BCM for a swap) on this page: L92 - LS3 Harness Hookup / Modifications

I would post it here but I want to give the guy credit.. it is impressively put together

Edit: you will need to register on that board to download the file.

I've got an email in to the author to see if they ever got the BCM portion working. Will edit/update when/if I get an answer.

 

[bulhas]

anyone have a hookup for the sleeve/splice for terminals 82998-12380 as Im diving into my eletrical a couple of the connectors have wires that have popped out, might explain some of my gremlins

11.22 each is a little excessive for a small terminal connection..... I can more than likely sacrifice a few of them and recrimp/solder them to save, but I'd like to have a couple spares