8cam's 97 turbo (2 Viewers)

[8cam]

I suppose I should follow up on getting that power steering gear installed on the new pump. The pump I ordered already had a woodruff key so I didn't have to worry about that. I used the impact to run the nut down and then backed it off a half-dozen times. Then I used a big socket and hit it with a hammer about 50 times, just to make sure that gear was seated all the way down. Then I installed the nut with the impact a final time, and pulled out the torque wrench. But using the strap wrench to hold the gear just didn't cut it. I couldn't hold it tight enough to set the required 54lb-ft on the nut. I didn't like the towel method because the teeth on a channel lock can cut right through the towel.

Instead I used an old leather belt with the biggest channel locks I have, and that allowed me to hold the gear tight enough that I could set the torque on the nut. 54lb-ft really isn't that much, half of what I use on lug nuts. But when you're using the torque wrench in one hand, and holding channel locks in the other, in opposing force, it's surprisingly tough, at least for me. But I got the click I was looking for.

 

[bryson]

Nice! I've always put 1x2 scrap wood in my vise as makeshift soft jaws, and when tightened they hold the steering pump gear very solid and without damage. Careful placement of the pump and the shape of your vice jaws will come into play, but it is really pretty simple.

I'd be careful trying to seat the gear with the socket and hammer like you mentioned. Obviously the shaft is tapered where the gear sits, which is only trying to split the gear in half as you pound on it. The torque spec listed in the FSM is already taking into account the proper seating of the gear.

 

[8cam]

More goodies have arrived. After considering upgrading shocks and springs, I decided better to take the basic route for now and just replace the 20 year old blown out shocks and steering stabilizer. Upgrades can come later. Also have Slee’s brake line kit there, along with new rotors and pads. On a business trip this week but the weekend will be busy.

 

[8cam]

Business trip all last week but I finally got back into the garage and got some work done. I've got a bunch of things on the list before Cruise Moab, and I've got to get at it. Next up, brakes and shocks. First thing I did was use my new toy. I've always had a couple workhorse jacks, but this is by far the biggest one I've ever had. This thing is awesome, and the price was right.

With my new found ability to get this monster truck in the air, I realize I'm going to have to get some bigger jackstands. My sports-car-capable stands just don't have the reach for the LC...had to stack some wood to make it work. But good enough. I've been pulling wheels and changing tires since I was a teenager, and I thought the 315s on the back of my old Corvette were big, but these things are a different kind of big. And heavy.

I started in the rear, pulling the wheels off and took in the lay of the land. I realized pretty quick that getting the caliper mounting bracket off was really tight, so it was shocks first. I had soaked the bolts in liquid wrench the night before, so hitting it with the impact and they were out. Wow that was easy. If you have ever been curious about the difference between 20 year old blown out shocks, and brand new ones, here you go.

 

[BILT4ME]

Business trip all last week but I finally got back into the garage and got some work done. I've got a bunch of things on the list before Cruise Moab, and I've got to get at it. Next up, brakes and shocks. First thing I did was use my new toy. I've always had a couple workhorse jacks, but this is by far the biggest one I've ever had. This thing is awesome, and the price was right.

View attachment 1932775

With my new found ability to get this monster truck in the air, I realize I'm going to have to get some bigger jackstands. My sports-car-capable stands just don't have the reach for the LC...had to stack some wood to make it work. But good enough. I've been pulling wheels and changing tires since I was a teenager, and I thought the 315s on the back of my old Corvette were big, but these things are a different kind of big. And heavy.

I started in the rear, pulling the wheels off and took in the lay of the land. I realized pretty quick that getting the caliper mounting bracket off was really tight, so it was shocks first. I had soaked the bolts in liquid wrench the night before, so hitting it with the impact and they were out. Wow that was easy. If you have ever been curious about the difference between 20 year old blown out shocks, and brand new ones, here you go.

View attachment 1932781

Wow! No rust on a shock bracket.....What's that like?

 

[8cam]

I didn't get a pic from when I had it taken apart, but that new rotor sure looked nice, had to take an interim pic. Also have the new braided line in there, which was a little tough. That clip was practically welded on there, but eventually it yielded. The Slee kit included new lines, copper washers and new clips, so no more worrying about that.

Pulling the pads out eas enlightening. Yep the shocks were pretty bad, think these were bad? One was completely on the metal backing and the other was within a whisker of it.

Side #1 all buttoned up. Really a pretty easy job all in.

 

[8cam]

I should probably clean up the calipers and everything else, but right now focus is on getting things done and ready for the big trip. The passenger side was just as straightforward, and quicker since I knew where I was going. I managed to get the rear completely done on Sunday before heading to dinner, and then been working every day this week. Saturday I'll get back in the garage and do the front. Hopefully it won't be too difficult. I've got a collection of u-joints that should make those front shocks a piece of cake.

 

[8cam]

Wow! No rust on a shock bracket.....What's that like?

Shocked the hell out of me. Considering the battle I had replacing the power steering pump. I was expecting this to be a full-on fight. But zip zip with the impact and I had a shock in my hand. Then the top nut was just as easy. I held the shock body with my hand and hit it with the impact and bam, it was off. The fronts will be a little more challenging just because of access, but I'm hoping it goes just as easy.

 

[subzali]

Are you replacing front rotors too? Those are a little more involved.

 

[8cam]

Yes doing full brakes all around, fronts included. Looks like the hub has to come off with the rotor? Only thing I'm missing then is that monster socket for the hub nut. Or is it possible to do the job without removing that nut?

 

[subzali]

It's gotta come off and repack wheel bearings. 54mm socket.

 

[8cam]

Well s***. Took off the front passenger wheel and one of the hub studs sheared off. From the looks of it, must have been ready to go for a while. If one was bad, I'm sure others are too. Looks like a call to CruiserParts and get a couple of good hubs, because if I replace one I'm going to do both.

 

[8cam]

At least I got the new shocks installed in the front, and all new SS brake lines. But ran into a problem there too. Once I had the brakes all buttoned up, I went to flush and bleed the system (something I have done far more times than I can count over the years) and for the first time I can't get fluid to the calipers. Tried both a hand pump at the caliper bleeder, and the old fashioned pedal pump, and absolutely nothing, and the pedal is firm like it's building pressure. Right now I'm thinking maybe the banjo bolts aren't fitting properly, not letting fluid from the new lines through. I'll be pulling the lines off and looking for blockages.

Oh and the battery is dead. Have a current draw coming from somewhere, so for the time being I'm installing a battery cutoff switch.

Definitely not been a good weekend. First this stuff on the 80, then this morning some stuff at work that has been fine for years randomly stopped working. So took a shower to clear my head, and the hot water valve broke. Hey Murphy, what'd I do to you????

 

[thatcabledude]

Sheesh... I think that's just how life goes sometimes. When it rains, it pours.

 

[rolliges]

Who sold you that clunker?

 

[subzali]

Why are you replacing the whole hub? Just unthread the broken stud and put a new one in there. Call up North Georgia Toyota?

 

[8cam]

Why are you replacing the whole hub? Just unthread the broken stud and put a new one in there. Call up North Georgia Toyota?

Didn’t realize they were threaded, figured they were pressed in. Still guessing they are locktited in there, will take some heat to get out. I’ll give it a try.

 

[subzali]

Didn’t realize they were threaded, figured they were pressed in. Still guessing they are locktited in there, will take some heat to get out. I’ll give it a try.

Take the rest off and pull the drive flange off and you will have more room to work. Might even get a double nut on there. Do you have an FSM?

@OTRAMM gets right into it here:

 

[Corbet]

I used these for that job. Looks like there is still enough to get a hold of after you remove the cone washer.

CBS4MSRIS - 4 Piece Metric Stud R- I Set - Cornwell Webcat

www.cornwelltools.com

Replace them with ARP’s

 

[8cam]

Who sold you that clunker?

LOL I’ll let @LandCruiserPhil know you said that!

I’m just taking care of stuff it needs after 20 years of expeditioning. Really a great truck but I like posting and keeping track of the things I’m doing.

And as for Murphy. Cheers!