If it is not where you expect it to be spin the crank around to TDC again and then check it.
89 4Runner Rescue (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Jram100
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #82
Thanks for the tip!
Unfortunately, I really did screw things up. Its surprising because I usually triple check everything, and had no probs when I did the timing on my 2UZ.
Anyway, got things taken apart and we’re looking much better now. Thankful these little motors are so easy to work on.
- Thread starter
- #83
This is the week of extra work apparently. Went to bolt up the drivelines, and realized I installed the drive flanges backward.
(The larger drive flange goes in front)
She’s gettin real close to driving though!
(The larger drive flange goes in front)
She’s gettin real close to driving though!
- Thread starter
- #85
Back on track today.
If anyone reads this in the future has to redo timing leave the water pump installed on the cover.
Also if you are leaving the oil pan on, it would help to apply rtv between the head and the portion of the head gasket that goes between the head and timing cover. If you do it ahead of time, there less chance of mangling the head gasket when you install the cover.
If anyone reads this in the future has to redo timing leave the water pump installed on the cover.
Also if you are leaving the oil pan on, it would help to apply rtv between the head and the portion of the head gasket that goes between the head and timing cover. If you do it ahead of time, there less chance of mangling the head gasket when you install the cover.
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- Thread starter
- #86
Threw in a used dual diaphragm booster and 1” master, and a new clutch master. Luckily didn’t need an extra spacer for steering shaft clearance.
Haven’t see anything about the connector compatability, but I soldered the one from the old reservoir onto the new one.
Haven’t see anything about the connector compatability, but I soldered the one from the old reservoir onto the new one.
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- Thread starter
- #87
Finally just fired her up yesterday, seems to be running alright. Probably due for a valve adjustment. Hopefully get the brakes sorted today. Just over a year ago I started this thread…
- Thread starter
- #88
Truck is still coming together, panels dont line up for s*** lol
The Pebble Beach Concours judges are going to ding you badly for that.
- Thread starter
- #90
Here a couple of updated photos.
I am still working out a rough idle, but otherwise its driving pretty good.
I am still working out a rough idle, but otherwise its driving pretty good.
- Thread starter
- #91
So far I fixed an exhaust leak, replaced coolant temp sensor, swapped iacv, plugged egr vacuum port, messed w timing a lot, adjusted tps (think I did it correctly) may get the allen bolts to adjust while the truck is running.
Theres been a big improvement, but really want a smooth idle.
Theres been a big improvement, but really want a smooth idle.
- Thread starter
- #92
I think the warm idle issue may be attributed to not having the idle up valve and VSV installed. I’ll get around to it eventually. Swapped in a new ngk coil and its not smelling so rich when I drive it.
Next thing is to swap out the leaky pinion seal on the rear diff- same goes for my 100 series. Then its probably new pads and rotors and then onto suspensions stuff. I have some shiny new Foam Cell Pros for the 100. Im considering the KYB excel-G shocks on the 1st gen ($160 for all 4). Definitely keeping busy between the two trucks
Next thing is to swap out the leaky pinion seal on the rear diff- same goes for my 100 series. Then its probably new pads and rotors and then onto suspensions stuff. I have some shiny new Foam Cell Pros for the 100. Im considering the KYB excel-G shocks on the 1st gen ($160 for all 4). Definitely keeping busy between the two trucks
