89 4Runner Rescue (1 Viewer)

yotadude520

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I used some throttle bottle cleaner and a brush to clean the sealing surface on the crank. I didnt get a before pic, but it looked even worse than the seal.View attachment 3005555View attachment 3005556

Next step might be finding a replacement ecm, and getting the truck ready for the swap while I wait on parts.

Shoot me the part # on the ECM, I've got one lying around for a 22RE.
 
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Shoot me the part # on the ECM, I've got one lying around for a 22RE.
PM sent.

Other goodies are arriving:
CD634F22-1B41-4D4F-8DF0-BD9849D16002.jpeg
 
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Going to replace the gasket here:

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Front seal is dry, but should I change it anyway?

Looking at fluids, leaning towards redline mt and GL5 75w90.
 

pappy

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You are in there. Replace the seal.
 

ntsqd

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If the trans is not a W or an R series then a quality synthetic lube is a very good idea. If it is a W or an R synthetic is still a good idea, but not as necessary. I ran Torco in a G series for 50k and then replaced that with Redline as part of it's servicing. Sold the truck with over 50k on the Redline.
 
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Threw the Marlin HD combo in last night. Feels pretty good, but I think I need to go back in and make sure the seats didn’t rotate when I was reinstalling the shifters.

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Was able to get the valve cover off motor #2 today. It does seem sooty/sludgy like the rear main cap.

Hopefully nothing too major, would appreciate any input from the community.

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ntsqd

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Could be worse, I've seen it. Going to guess the PO used a high paraffins oil like Pennzoil in it. How many miles are reportedly on it?

Either button it back up untouched, or tear it down and thoroughly clean it. Half measures are sure to bite you.
 

pappy

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Dude, that's nothing. I would put it back together and run some quality oil through it. I would suggest syn, but it might make the seals start leaking.
 
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Could be worse, I've seen it. Going to guess the PO used a high paraffins oil like Pennzoil in it. How many miles are reportedly on it?

Either button it back up untouched, or tear it down and thoroughly clean it. Half measures are sure to bite you.
Okay, thanks. 130k reported miles.
Dude, that's nothing. I would put it back together and run some quality oil through it. I would suggest syn, but it might make the seals start leaking.
Great, thats reassuring.

I have all the parts to do a full tear-down. I had originally planned on getting the trans and tcase dialed and getting the truck legal and doing a tear down on the engine this winter.

Now I may just get it on a stand and tear it down and clean everything then run synthetic oil w fresh seals.
 

pappy

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Now I may just get it on a stand and tear it down and clean everything then run synthetic oil w fresh seals.
Look up engine break-in procedures. I've always been told the first oil in the pan should be dino, not syn.
 

ntsqd

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If you're doing a real engine break-in the economics of it alone rule out synthetic oil, never mind the other reasons for not using it as a break-in oil. If you really want to go over the top and the cost isn't an issue, Gibbs oil sells oil specifically for engine break-in. Shop By Product - Break-In & Assembly Oils - https://drivenracingoil.com/c-1389195-shop-by-product-break-in-assembly-oils.html So does Maxima: Maxima Oils #30-10901 Premium Break-In - MaximaUsa.com - https://maximausa.com/series-263-premium-break-in.html

Most of the articles about engine break-in are talking about cam-in-block engines where the cam and follower's wear pattern is a poorly lubricated, highly loaded set of mating parts. OHC engines like the 22R/E don't have this design and it's cam and followers are not nearly as highly loaded. What they have to say about piston rings and cylinder bores does apply to all engines.

With the bores & rings, cam & followers having already established their wear patterns a full engine break-in process is a bit excessive, BUT since cleaning is the reason for opening it up I'd still run it for a short time period (long enough to get thoroughly warm) on dino to flush out all of the junk that you didn't get and then go to synthetic with a new filter. I would use a quality oil for the 'break-in" because you do want an excellent detergent package in the oil that you do use.

If you really want to go down this particular rabbit hole have a look at: Bob Is The Oil Guy - https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/
 

Zjohnsonua

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There's nothing wrong with the build up on that engine. Looks like it ran a light duty/grocery getter life. Open up most any 20 yr old engine and be prepared to see this stuff. Totally common, as this is the duty cycle that the broad majority of passenger vehicles see. Run a good quality oil and filter, let it see some highway runs for 30+ minutes, and carry on. Maybe change the oil early the first couple times if that makes you feel better.

Install the rear main just a bit off that groove, replace the clutch, set the valves, replace the VC gasket and go. Enjoy the truck. Looks like a good grab.
 
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Look up engine break-in procedures. I've always been told the first oil in the pan should be dino, not syn.

If you're doing a real engine break-in the economics of it alone rule out synthetic oil, never mind the other reasons for not using it as a break-in oil. If you really want to go over the top and the cost isn't an issue, Gibbs oil sells oil specifically for engine break-in. Shop By Product - Break-In & Assembly Oils - https://drivenracingoil.com/c-1389195-shop-by-product-break-in-assembly-oils.html So does Maxima: Maxima Oils #30-10901 Premium Break-In - MaximaUsa.com - https://maximausa.com/series-263-premium-break-in.html

Most of the articles about engine break-in are talking about cam-in-block engines where the cam and follower's wear pattern is a poorly lubricated, highly loaded set of mating parts. OHC engines like the 22R/E don't have this design and it's cam and followers are not nearly as highly loaded. What they have to say about piston rings and cylinder bores does apply to all engines.

With the bores & rings, cam & followers having already established their wear patterns a full engine break-in process is a bit excessive, BUT since cleaning is the reason for opening it up I'd still run it for a short time period (long enough to get thoroughly warm) on dino to flush out all of the junk that you didn't get and then go to synthetic with a new filter. I would use a quality oil for the 'break-in" because you do want an excellent detergent package in the oil that you do use.

If you really want to go down this particular rabbit hole have a look at: Bob Is The Oil Guy - https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/
Thank you for the info. I may be misusing "full tear-down", I think I basically mean remove the head and clean everything. Wasn't sure if that still required a break-in procedure.
There's nothing wrong with the build up on that engine. Looks like it ran a light duty/grocery getter life. Open up most any 20 yr old engine and be prepared to see this stuff. Totally common, as this is the duty cycle that the broad majority of passenger vehicles see. Run a good quality oil and filter, let it see some highway runs for 30+ minutes, and carry on. Maybe change the oil early the first couple times if that makes you feel better.

Install the rear main just a bit off that groove, replace the clutch, set the valves, replace the VC gasket and go. Enjoy the truck. Looks like a good grab.
Thanks for the response, I may definitely go this route and enjoy summer w the canopy off!
 
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Got a 89-95 driver seat in today. Also found a box of 9mm left in the truck, pretty happy w that. Hopefully this week I can get the flywheel and clutch on and get the trans apart.

Talked to the guys at yotashop.com they’re local and agreed to give me $600 in store credit for the old block and two heads as long as its rebuildable. Hope the block is okay. Still new to the 22re world, does that sound like a fair deal?

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pappy

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$600 for a block and two heads sounds fair to me. What I don't like the the store credit. Do they have $600 in stuff you would want? It's certainly a great deal for them. You get $600 worth of their product that might cost them $300.

I would take that $600 and put it into rebuilding the engine you have.
 
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$600 for a block and two heads sounds fair to me. What I don't like the the store credit. Do they have $600 in stuff you would want? It's certainly a great deal for them. You get $600 worth of their product that might cost them $300.

I would take that $600 and put it into rebuilding the engine you have.
Yeah thats a good point. I think for me it makes sense, they have a denso fuel pump, and I was going to replace the shocks. They only have KYB and Rancho, so unless those aren’t ones I should go with I may take them up on it.

I also reached out to Sunwest in Spokane, they are advertising on their website that they are looking for cores. We’ll see what they say, I’ve heard they do good work there.
 

pappy

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... they have a denso fuel pump, and I was going to replace the shocks.
Well shoot. I was going to say Rockauto has good prices on Denso fuel pumps, but they appear to be out of stock.
 
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Got the rear main on the motor and got it up on the stand. Dont have a flywheel yet, so going to try and work on the trans and tcase, and getting the old motor out of the truck.

Doesnt have a/c or p/s, so I’ll be using the crank pulley and pumps from the old motor. Will probably do the timing chain and related stuff while its on the stand.

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