Builds '88 4runner (ntsqd) (1 Viewer)

[ntsqd]

heh, heh with OBA comes air horn!! Wired its solenoid in parallel with the wimpy replacement electric horn. Can't even hear the electric horn. I'm sure the neighbors were all WTF! as I was testing it. My uncalibrated ear says at least 125 dBa, which is probably 50 dBa more than the wimpy replacement electric horn.

Anyway, checked that the new pressure switch was working correctly and then set the system pressure to 125 psi. Verified that the ARB system regulator was dropping that to 95 psi.

Rear springs appear to be doing exactly what I feared, lifted it too much. I need to drive it a bit, see if it settles any. Anyone used the Skyjacker Soft-ride springs? I'm tempted by their 0-2" lift version. Although the lack of a 'military wrap' second leaf is disconcerting.

 

[CreeperSleeper]

Why not just pull the shortest leaf out of your existing spring pack?

 

[ntsqd]

The shortest leaf has either the front or the rear keeper riveted to it, I forget which. The next shorter leaf has the opposite keeper riveted to it. I've considered it anyway, can probably be OK w/o the rear keeper as the O/L leaf has it's keeper/traction aid part.

 

[ntsqd]

Just spent a week driving Basin & Range in NV and this was the result:

Rear springs worked well, but now that it is unloaded it is 'stinkbug' as I thought it would be. I guess I should just keep it loaded for trips?

 

[ntsqd]

Going over Towne Pass out of Stovepipe Wells, DV it got warm. I'm OK with a little warm - it's to be expected when pulling a grade like that, this was warmer than I liked. Then coming back from taking my wife to look at the 'Super Bloom' in the Carrizo Plain yesterday it got that hot again on the Grapevine.

Am thinking that since the auto trans' converter was unlocked for long periods that it was dumping heat into the radiator and that was part of the problem. So time to add external cooling there. Plan is my normal one for auto's, add an oil t-stat in the line from the trans and put the cooler on it. I've found this arrangement to work well in all driving conditions.

Only one question, which is the "out" line and which is the "In" line?

Am also thinking to remote mount the engine oil filter. The stock location is pretty awkward, the filter is puny, and in going remote I can add a t-stat & cooler there too.

 

[joseywales]

I’ve got one of the B&M universal auto trans cooler units. Is that what you would use? With the factory rad too, or on its own?

 

[ntsqd]

I plumb the t-stat in the line-out cooler line, and plumb the aux cooler to that. The t-stat leaves the aux cooler mostly out of the circuit until it reaches its set temperature. When the trans is cold or below the t-stat set-point the fluid can actually be warmed by the engine coolant in the lower radiator tank. In cold weather this is a good thing, it is important for getting any condensation out of the fluid. When the trans is running warmer than the t-stat's set-point the aux cooler can (& should) be able to cool the fluid below the temperature of the engine coolant in the lower radiator tank. Then the fluid may pick-up a little heat in the lower radiator tank before returning to the trans. I'd rather over-cool the trans fluid than not cool it enough. Running thru the radiator second assures this. I'm OK with working the fluid thermally like that as I see it as the consumable component. I don't see the trans as a consumable part.

 

[ntsqd]

Some comments on the OME rear springs & the BJ spacers:

The OME's are far more supple than than they should be given their reasonably short length. Don't know if that is due to my shimming them (see post 14) or not. I was far less impressed with the OME springs that I put on my FJ60. Those rode awful, even with properly valved remote reservoir Fox shox on it. This truck does badly need dampers. The rear RS5k's are nearly blown, the front RS5k's are just too stiff.

Loaded it sat level, unloaded it is definitely stink-bug. Ride quality seems to be the same in both conditions. Wife & I did a 1/2 day trip up to the Carrizo Plain for the "Super Bloom" the day after the NV trip. I didn't get the expected 'buckboard' ride out of the rear. I could crank in more front ride height, currently it is stock according to the FSM, but then it would look like its pants are too short in the legs and be more difficult to get in and out of (it is a DD after all).

It would appear that my plan with using BJ spacers has resulted in less pre-load on the t-bars. The ride quality in the front is improved, but it's hard to quantify just how much. Enough to notice, but not a huge improvement.

 

[ntsqd]

Anyone know off the top of their head which is the supply and which is the return trans cooler line? I keep forgetting to look in the FSM, assuming it has that info.

EDIT: Looked in the FSM's ('88 & '89 Vol. 1 Engine), no info.

 

[ntsqd]

Guessing I'll just have to pull a hose loose and briefly start it with a bucket under the hose and whatever.

Found a Ford F-Series Aux trans cooler in my cooler stash. Stacked plate with fins between each pair of plates, about 11" long by 5" wide. Been thinking to build the front diff skidplate and stash this cooler behind it sort of under the radiator fan. Mocking up the cooler this evening I thought "maybe I should just order the budbilt in AL". Only they only offer AL in the 3 piece set, which does not fit this truck. So I've sent them an email asking about just the front skid/bash plate.

 

[ntsqd]

The shortest leaf has either the front or the rear keeper riveted to it, I forget which. The next shorter leaf has the opposite keeper riveted to it. I've considered it anyway, can probably be OK w/o the rear keeper as the O/L leaf has it's keeper/traction aid part.

Revisiting this, If I remove the shortest leaf I loose the front keeper. I think that I'm OK with that.
I've flirted with the idea of buying a complete coil sprung frame section, links, & axle housing and grafting them under this truck. I've also flirted with reducing the leaves to just a couple and adding air springs and an OTR truck air ride, ride height valve.

 

[Pacer]

Revisiting this, If I remove the shortest leaf I loose the front keeper. I think that I'm OK with that.
I've flirted with the idea of buying a complete coil sprung frame section, links, & axle housing and grafting them under this truck. I've also flirted with reducing the leaves to just a couple and adding air springs and an OTR truck air ride, ride height valve.

Could remove the shortest and turn the next around to move the keeper in front if you like it that way.

 

[ntsqd]

That's too simple, it couldn't possibly work.

Thanks! I have a look at that.

 

[ntsqd]

Playing around with an idea, looking for a complete hardtop should anyone have one. Will consider a partially complete depending on what its missing.

 

[gbogh]

Started on the spring shims yesterday. Originally planned on 3 per spring, but noticed during the install that the second leaf, being a military wrap leaf, didn't have tip sliders and that the 4th leaf only has a tip slider at the front.Debated it for while and decided not to install a shim btwn the main and second leaf, but to install one btwn the 3rd and 4th even though there's only one tip slider there. I gave each shim top a significant radius so that there won't be a sharp edge that the leaf above is bending down on. Got the shims installed and discovered that the springs are marked differently adjacent to the forward arrow. One has an "I" on it and the other has something that looks a bit like "[ ]" So far I've found nothing to indicate why the different marks. Have yet to find any sort of install instructions on either web page.

I'm interested in recreating your air gap shims, what material did you use? I was thinking of using a UHMW plastic, but thought I'd ask.

 

[ntsqd]

Plated steel sheet metal of about the same thickness as the polymer tip sliders.

 

[ntsqd]

Recommended spark-plugs? I put some NGK's, gapped at .032" per the FSM, in it and made it run worse. Suspecting that it may be wire issue, so cap, rotor, & wires about to be ordered, but I thot I'd see if I should have put something different in the engine instead. 3.0L if that makes any difference.

 

[ntsqd]

Well, DD status has resulted in needing a rear drive-shaft. Who besides HAD builds them using Toyota parts rather than Spicer parts? I had a Spicer built for Patch and it just generally didn't work as well. I've found a p/n for the original shaft, which would work, but everyone lists it as NLA. I've no problem with ordering it from Jesse, just hoped that there might be someone a bit closer to me. If it were just the UJ's I'd replace them, but the slip splines are worn and I get an odd worbling sound on deccel.

 

[gnob]

Check driveline tech

 

[toyotaboy80]

Is it a rear CV driveshaft in this truck?

A properly built spicer shaft is a nice piece. Better than any non OE Toyota shaft in my opinion.