Builds '88 4runner (ntsqd) (1 Viewer)

[ntsqd]

No, it's a simple two UJ's total with a slip, nothing exotic. It appears to be Toyota p/n: 3711035450 which some say has been superseded by 3711035451, neither of which is showing up in stock anywhere that I've looked. In the old days I'd ask Dan to confirm my research and see if he could find one somewhere. Oh well.

The Spicer that I had built for Patch, by a reputable local source, was larger and clunkier looking than the OEM it replaced. It clearly wouldn't operate at as high of an angle as the shaft that it replaced and based solely on the shapes of the pieces I'll guess was also not quite as strong. Both of these being serious considerations with my ginormous 31-10.50 tires and the Screaming 3.0L.........
Note: dripping sarcasm.

 

[toyotaboy80]

A typical 1310 yoke with the 1310 conversion flange to a Toyota TC/diff flange will handle more angle than required for 99% of applications.

Spicer life forged OE U joints, a slip yoke that has a thread on seal, and 3" .083 wall DOM tube makes for a nice driveshaft.

 

[ntsqd]

This happened today while out at lunch.

 

[pappy]

This happened today while out at lunch.

You forgot to clear the trip odo to match.

 

[ntsqd]

Tracking my mileage. It's up ~ 2mpg from the norm of my normal commute to 18. Not sure why, but I've a couple thoughts on it.

 

[Dumpolina]

This happened today while out at lunch.

Congrats!

 

[ntsqd]

Suddenly it started running rough at idle and sounds like it dropping a cylinder when rev'd up. I smelled raw fuel in the cold engine exhaust, so I replaced the plugs, cap, and rotor (wires are Bosch and maybe 10k miles old). That helped, but didn't cure it. Thinking injector, maybe? Any experience with "yotashop.com" as a vendor?

 

[liveoak]

Suddenly it started running rough at idle and sounds like it dropping a cylinder when rev'd up. I smelled raw fuel in the cold engine exhaust, so I replaced the plugs, cap, and rotor (wires are Bosch and maybe 10k miles old). That helped, but didn't cure it. Thinking injector, maybe? Any experience with "yotashop.com" as a vendor?

I think you're right. I'd guess injector 3 or 6.

 

[ntsqd]

Any reason that you'd guess those two in particular?

FWIW the forward two plugs on the driver's side looked the most fouled.

 

[liveoak]

If you have the 3.0, the rear most injectors usually suffer the most from the hot soak condition that the 3.0 and 3.4 are notorious for. They typically start leaking first, which affects idle at startup or startup after stopping for a short time on a hot day. It's best to replace if it's the issue as the injector cleaning companies can't fix the problem. The 3.4 obd is a little better at pinpointing the misfiring cylinder if the check engine light even comes on at all.

 

[ntsqd]

It has been behaving like either a check valve or injector(s) are leaking. Most noticeable on hot starts.

If not yotashop.com, recommended vendor(s) for injectors? With 300k on the clock this whole set of injectors doesn't owe me anything. Might be best to just replace them all rather than have them die one at a time.

 

[pappy]

Injector service companies:

RC Fuel Injection
Injector Masters
Witch Hunter
Doctor Injector

I have experience with RC. I've also had fuel injector issues, namely, they don't hold pressure over night and leak into the manifold. This causes hard starting, and a bit of smoking until the fuel burns off. Currently having this issue with a fresh set of rebuilt injectors. I'm done with this set, and my backup set. I'm installing aftermarket as soon as I get my gaskets. I will then send all 8 in for testing only, just to see which are not holding pressure. I will save the good ones, and trash the rest.

Here is a pic. I rotate my injectors, and the set that did this was just reinstalled.

 

[liveoak]

Unfortunately, I don't have a recommendation for a place to buy injectors. I do know that cleaning them won't fix them(unless all they are is dirty) . They will behave normally when being cleaned because they aren't subject to extreme temperatures which is why the problem is so hard to identify. I already made that mistake and got back a few polished turds. I wouldn't send injectors to be cleaned unless I couldn't find replacements. I don't think they are actually "rebuildable".

 

[toyotaboy80]

Did any of the old plugs have carbon tracking on them?

Carbon tracking is an etched-like black line on the white insulator portion of the plug.

Carbon tracking would indicate a bad plug wire.

 

[ntsqd]

Maybe, if so they were very faint. So NGK or Denso for plug wires? I'd assume either would be fine, but with the way that everything else has changed.......
And I must say that if these not terribly old Bosch are now toast that I'm pretty disappointed in what used to be a superior brand.

New injectors look to run about $1200 for the 3.0L.

 

[toyotaboy80]

I recognize bosch as a good brand, but these days I try not to be loyal as tomorrow I could open up a box of parts and the parts could appear like guaranteed pieces of... lol. Last few sets of NGK's that I've used were solid. I've also taken NGK out of the box and the end fell off one when I looked at it funny. If I had a choice and the price was similar, I'd likely choose denso just because but I wouldnt pay double for denso over NGK.

Do a fuel pressure test and see if it holds pressure or leaks down. $200 an injector is steep!!! Might be worth trying to find some good condition used OE injectors. I have no experience with "'remanned/rebuilt" injectors.

 

[toyotaboy80]

Because you said "suddenly" started running like crap, I didnt think it would be valve lash. But possibly if it dropped a hole below the threshold or slowly over time it ran linearly worse and worse.

The 3.0L is a mechanical valve train and is set with shim over bucket...aka theoretically non adjustable in standard practice. They can be adjusted without a 1 million dollar wall of Toyota shims but it involves removing the heads. If the heads havent ever been serviced, 300k is a lot of miles for a valve to not be adjusted.

Might be worth sticking a feeler gauge in there and see where the lash is.

 

[ntsqd]

Based on the rust stains etc., the head gaskets were done sometime not all that long before I bought it. Going on the assumption that the valve lash was set then, at least 25k ago. Until recently it ran exceptionally well. Enough so that I've wondered why they're called a "3.Slow" by so many. Am guessing that those who say that haven't driven a 22R thru Nevada's Basin & Range area.

Doesn't run like it's got a low compression bore, just a weak or lack of spark or an injector that isn't atomizing the fuel well enough to get the flame lit.

Was out at the local junk yard last weekend, no 3.0's to be found anywhere. The $1200 is rough, but it includes a new fuel filter, tax & shipping.

 

[ntsqd]

Update on the rough running issue. Changed out the existing Denso plug wires for new Denso plug wires. Considerable improvement, but it's still a tiny bit rough running. It's almost like the balance ring on the harmonic balancer slipped a little. I've not investigated that specifically, yet. Am trying an in-tank injector cleaner just to see if it makes any difference at all.

It's also got a lot of back-lash in the splines of the rear drive-shaft. That makes it drive a bit rough, particularly on deccel for some reason. Should be seeing the replacement shaft from a local source on Monday. This after waiting 5 months for a drive-shaft from a shop that used to have a very good rep. No idea what's going on, so I won't name them, but I won't be buying anything from them again.

 

[ntsqd]

Spicer based new drive-shaft in place. That smoothed out the drive-line vibes and makes me think there's a rear wheel bearing going bad. I recently replaced one that was sloppy, but my tooling to push the new one on was less than ideal and I fear that I may have damaged it. Guess that I'll order some good ones and do them both.