Build '88 4runner (ntsqd)
- Thread starter ntsqd
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- #42
Thank you very much!!
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- #43
Not much been happening other than driving it. With the weather in Upper So. KA being what it was last weekend we took it out to go see the local river actually flowing water. Most of the time it's a great place to check set-ups for driving in sand. Sunday it was not a place to get in. If you survived you'd be a 1/4 mile downstream in a flash.
Did learn that the BFG A/T's on it are toast. Lots of tread left, but my tire guy says one has a hop in it and he doesn't like how old they are given that they came out of the LA Basin. They show a little cracking at the shoulders between the lugs, but he's concerned that the ozone exposure has aged them beyond what they appear to be. Likely moving to Yoko A/T's in 31-10.50, which are tiny compared to what I've become used to.
I split the Puma compressor from it's tank. With some ~.50" spacers to lower them the tank fits sitting on top of the spare tire support arms. I cut two slots in one side of each arm for a very large hose clamp to hold the tank in place. Compressor location YTBD, but on the frame next to the muffler (with a heat shield of course!) is the leading contender.
Did learn that the BFG A/T's on it are toast. Lots of tread left, but my tire guy says one has a hop in it and he doesn't like how old they are given that they came out of the LA Basin. They show a little cracking at the shoulders between the lugs, but he's concerned that the ozone exposure has aged them beyond what they appear to be. Likely moving to Yoko A/T's in 31-10.50, which are tiny compared to what I've become used to.
I split the Puma compressor from it's tank. With some ~.50" spacers to lower them the tank fits sitting on top of the spare tire support arms. I cut two slots in one side of each arm for a very large hose clamp to hold the tank in place. Compressor location YTBD, but on the frame next to the muffler (with a heat shield of course!) is the leading contender.
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- #44
Went with the 100A MR2 alternator upgrade. I described what I did to make it work and keep the stock length poly-v belt in this thread: 3.0 high alternator choices and experiences? Have yet to drive it as I'm working on the 2M radio install now.
Nice 4Runner. It's been years but I think we were acquainted back when I was in SoCal (thinking Hungry Valley or 4Runner Jambo)?
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- #46
It's possible, but I've never had the 4rnnr to HV and never been to the Jambo.
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- #47
SCORE?
A friend gave me a set of barely used SAW IFS torsion bars. They measure 23mm, or about .5mm larger than what I measure my assumed to be OEM bars to be, but that's not the interesting part. The interesting part is these are the apparently fairly rare 2 stage torsions that SAW made for the IFS trucks back in the day. At an adjustable point in the suspension's compression a tab contacts an adjuster screw and at the point it effectively reduces the length of the t-bar by about 1/3. From that point the rest of the compression travel will be at a significantly higher spring rate.
A friend gave me a set of barely used SAW IFS torsion bars. They measure 23mm, or about .5mm larger than what I measure my assumed to be OEM bars to be, but that's not the interesting part. The interesting part is these are the apparently fairly rare 2 stage torsions that SAW made for the IFS trucks back in the day. At an adjustable point in the suspension's compression a tab contacts an adjuster screw and at the point it effectively reduces the length of the t-bar by about 1/3. From that point the rest of the compression travel will be at a significantly higher spring rate.
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- #49
Working on that. In the mean time I'll try to describe them in text. The anchor splines at the rear of the t-bars are longer than stock and a female splined collar with the 'stop' tab welded to it rides on them. There is a third set of splines on the bar about 1/3 forward from the anchor splines. A female splined collar fits on those, and it is welded into a short tube. The rear of the tube pilots on the stop tab splined collar's OD and has a tab welded onto it with the adjuster screw in it.
The full length of the bar twist per normal until the adjuster screw contacts the stop tab. At that point the portion of the bar under the tube no longer can twist, making the bar much shorter. Shorter torsion bar of the same OD will have a higher spring rate.
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I think the stock bars are either too stiff or the RS5000's are too stiff. Whatever the cause, the front doesn't like to move much. I'm not sure that I want these t-bars, but I'm going to try them out after I get the 7100's installed. Could be that I can use them very much like a hydro-bump in that they come in very late in the compression travel and only serve to dramatically slow the suspension right before hitting the travel limiters.
The full length of the bar twist per normal until the adjuster screw contacts the stop tab. At that point the portion of the bar under the tube no longer can twist, making the bar much shorter. Shorter torsion bar of the same OD will have a higher spring rate.
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I think the stock bars are either too stiff or the RS5000's are too stiff. Whatever the cause, the front doesn't like to move much. I'm not sure that I want these t-bars, but I'm going to try them out after I get the 7100's installed. Could be that I can use them very much like a hydro-bump in that they come in very late in the compression travel and only serve to dramatically slow the suspension right before hitting the travel limiters.
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- #50
OK, pitchers:
Anyone familiar with SAW's adjustable spring plates for ACVW's will recognize some of the parts.
Anyone familiar with SAW's adjustable spring plates for ACVW's will recognize some of the parts.
Cool. I didn't know such a thing existed.
Nice find!
If you wanna see some of the crazy that Toyota engineers were coming up with back in the 80's, check out this thread:
Toyota MTEG Stadium Truck Build
here's how the triple rate front bars were set up on the MTEG trucks.
If you wanna see some of the crazy that Toyota engineers were coming up with back in the 80's, check out this thread:
Toyota MTEG Stadium Truck Build
here's how the triple rate front bars were set up on the MTEG trucks.
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- #53
Just finished going thru the Evaporust Thermocure flushing process. If MISF hadn't mentioned how well it worked for him in both his Scout and his '69 Gran Prix I'd not have tried it, but he did so I did. The amount of soluble stuff that came out of the cooling system was amazing! This after back-flushing the cooling system and getting a bunch of rusty junk out of the system.
My complaint was that the heater barely worked. I recalled it working much better in the past, but that was before the coolant control valve could be fully opened due to the broken control lever assembly. Given the other hints that I had I suspected that the whole heater core part of the system was partly plugged and had not been flushed when the HG's were done after it blew the HG(s)'s sometime well before I got it.
Still working the air bubbles out of the system, but even now the heater works 200% better.
My complaint was that the heater barely worked. I recalled it working much better in the past, but that was before the coolant control valve could be fully opened due to the broken control lever assembly. Given the other hints that I had I suspected that the whole heater core part of the system was partly plugged and had not been flushed when the HG's were done after it blew the HG(s)'s sometime well before I got it.
Still working the air bubbles out of the system, but even now the heater works 200% better.
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- #54
A good deed never goes unpunished. Water pump shat the bed when I started it to go home from work this evening. Yea! Not.
Putting a Toyota pump back in it. Ordered the bushings needed for the shifters while I was at it.
Putting a Toyota pump back in it. Ordered the bushings needed for the shifters while I was at it.
Crappy deal. I’m guessing it’s a byproduct of the flush? I recall old school mechanic friends saying “never flush your cooling system”.
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- #56
I'm sure it's indirectly related, but flushing it was mandatory. A non-functioning heater, even here on the Coastal Desert, was not an option. R&Ring the heater core seemed excessive just to unclog it. Given what I've seen of some of the work done on the truck I suspect that it was also the cheapest possible water pump done at the time of the HG replacement.
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- #57
Got the cooling system back together and have gotten a couple heat cycles on it. Now to see where I am with purging the air out of the system. Wish that I'd thought while it was all apart to weld a male AN to that steel elbow tube almost centered at the rear of the engine. The top of it looks to be the highest point in the whole system. Then purging would be as simple as cracking the cap open and then bringing it up to temp.
Also installed the split bushes in the lower pivot of the t/c shifter linkage's "wish-bone". Hopefully that will eliminate one of the rattles anyway. Still need to dig into the shifter itself to do the trans shift lever pivot bushes.
Bought the H4 relay kit supposedly just for Toyota's off amazon. Going to temp install it to see if it works like it should. If it does I'll be either grafting it into my Bussman fuse/relay box or copying the wiring over to the box. Only the system will be on a breaker, NOT the supplied fuse.
Short term I also want to get the OBA compressor wiring finished. I have all but one of the "hard points" in place and ready to go. Just need to ID an IGN-only power source and a place for the over-ride switch for the control system. Thot I had pics of all of this, soon.........
Also installed the split bushes in the lower pivot of the t/c shifter linkage's "wish-bone". Hopefully that will eliminate one of the rattles anyway. Still need to dig into the shifter itself to do the trans shift lever pivot bushes.
Bought the H4 relay kit supposedly just for Toyota's off amazon. Going to temp install it to see if it works like it should. If it does I'll be either grafting it into my Bussman fuse/relay box or copying the wiring over to the box. Only the system will be on a breaker, NOT the supplied fuse.
Short term I also want to get the OBA compressor wiring finished. I have all but one of the "hard points" in place and ready to go. Just need to ID an IGN-only power source and a place for the over-ride switch for the control system. Thot I had pics of all of this, soon.........
Did you ever get to tires for this? I’m looking at 33x10.50s as an option. I just re-read your thread and realized out trucks are almost identical. Mine is a red ‘89 though, but with 3.0 auto, SR5 with roll windows. I have a sunroof instead of AC. I recall reading that 3.0 autos should have 4.30 gears as well.
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- #59
It has newish 31-10.50 Yoko A/T-S II's on it now. They're noisier than the 235/85-R16 A/T-S' that I have on the '73 SBSS, but they're also wider so that may be some of it.
I went with 4.56's with the ARB's. Patch had 4.88's and while those were awesome for a 22R that got driven everywhere and frequently driven into way rougher than I plan to take this truck, I just don't see myself going bigger in tire than the 235/85-R16. As I recall the math the 235/85 & 4.56 puts me very close to stock, but it's been a while since I did that. I'm definitely geared short with the 31's.
I went with 4.56's with the ARB's. Patch had 4.88's and while those were awesome for a 22R that got driven everywhere and frequently driven into way rougher than I plan to take this truck, I just don't see myself going bigger in tire than the 235/85-R16. As I recall the math the 235/85 & 4.56 puts me very close to stock, but it's been a while since I did that. I'm definitely geared short with the 31's.
I’m with you on the purpose for these trucks. I have my 2014 Dodge Cummins with a Northern Lite camper on it, and use that as my basecamp, and the 4Runner is going to be used for exploring and getting to fishing and hunting spots from that base. I’ll either flat tow, or pull it on my trailer to do the bigger trips. I’m on ExPo as well (Redthies over there) and my “build” of this will be a keep it looking stock as much as possible, and avoid the whole RTT, drawers etc etc that people feel are necessary. With the exception of the suspension, I will keep all the stock pieces I take off.