'88 1uz 4runner Build

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Joined
Apr 2, 2011
Threads
1
Messages
66
Location
NSW, Australia
'88 1uz 4runner Build Update 27/09/11 Rear Drawer Install

Gday, Just joined this forum after years of using it as a resource so wanted to share my POS with you all. Have owned it for a few months so will copy over a bit of the story. It's not much compared to some of the quality on here but it's a read about a truck from Aus none the less.

Cheers,
Peter
 
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Hey all I’ve decided to do a build up thread for a few reasons. The first being I have the memory of a goldfish and would like an organised record of the build up as the last couple of 4wds I have had I only have a few scattered disorganised photos here and there and no real memory of every mod I did.


The vehicle I have started with is a 1988 Toyota 4runner I picked up on ebay for the sum of $2250. The condition of the vehicle was not the best, mechanically it was excellent however the body requires some minor rust repairs and a complete respray. $2250 would most definitely, in my opinion, to be far too much to pay for a well used ’88 4runner however this one came with a sweetener to the deal. A 1uzfe has been installed in the place of the 4y and the vehicle came with a valid engineers certificate coincidently from the same engineer I will be using for future certifications but more on that later. The 1uzfe is a 4 litre quad cam 90 degree all alloy lexus v8 putting out 195kw at the flywheel and is a popular conversion into the 4runners and hiluxs so was confident any problems I may discover in pulling the vehicle down can be tackled by a hack of a backyard mechanic like myself. The v8 has been mated to the standard G52 gearbox (which is less than ideal), gear driven transfer and 4.8:1 diffs with IFS at the front. All of this is mechanically excellent and in great order with only a couple of minor oil leaks which is great!

Here’s a pic of her the day I picked her up:

27092010.jpg



The plan for the vehicle is to tear it down to build it up into a capable tourer cross capable offroader. Initially I don’t have many aspirations to wheel it onto its roof but have a plan to eventually get to this stage when I move onto the next build. In the mean time I’m keen to get a reliable rig for camping and beach duties that is comfortable to drive.
 
The plan is as follows in a rough order of time:

Short term:
- Repair the rust
- Bit of panel beating
- Full respray
- Redo the interior
- Redo alot of the wiring and engine bay wiring
- Get it registered
- Build a set of rear drawers
- Install a killer sound system
- Tube front
- Tube rear with integrated spare carrier and possibly jerry carrier
- Tube rock sliders

Medium Term:
- 4runner coil rear (sitting in the garage)
- Bundera coil front with ifs wide track spacers to match the rear (sitting in the garage)
- Lock front and rear
- ~33’s on some nice alloys

Longer Term:
- Install R150f gearbox out of v6 4runner (sitting in garage)
- Chain to gear drive adapter
- Twin transfers with 23 spline inputs and chromo output

When I get another vehicle for touring duties:
- 36” to 38” tyres
- Remove Fibreglass canopy
- Internal roll cage
- Wheel the chocolate out of it

I’ll try to keep this updated with a few photos and information about my progress, any questions, comments, ideas and suggestions are most definitely welcome.
 
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So the work begins, it’s funny how you always underestimate the amount of work required in any job you take on. This job appears to be no different, the pull down of the exterior in order to fix a few spots of rust and to give it a fresh coat of paint. In my head I had the idea that it should take a couple of days from start to having a coat on, the reality is there is alot of fiddly little jobs involved with putting a coat of paint down on a car. It’s ok but the weather has been good in Newcastle and have enjoyed spending a few days old spooky.

Onto the paint job with a little bit of information to start. Over the past couple of years I have read about people using a roll on paint made for boats with the results being quite impressive. The things that appealed to me about this method and type of paint applying were:

- Cost: I am on track to get at least 2 coats of paint on everything and will use about 1.5L of paint costing around 40 dollars per litre
- Thinning: I have been thinning it down but only a splash to give a bit smoother application and less orange peel.
- Lack of masking: I don’t have to mask half the things using a roll on application as opposed to spraying it on.
- Cost in materials: Because it needs next to no thinning I don’t have to purchase near as much thinners, also no undercoat and no clear to go on top as it’s an enamel paint.
- Novelty: It’s something new and I was interested in how it would turn out.
- Ease of touching up: Should I get a scratch I will have spare rollers and the levelling properties of the paint it should match up well.

At this stage I have applied two coats to all of the removable panels and one coat to the body. The results so far have been mixed in terms of satisfaction, I don’t know whether this is due to my higher than realistic expectations or whether the paint is just not up to the job. The gloss from the paint is unreal, being enamel you get the gloss straight up and the paint seems to dry and make for a great shine. Up close there is no denying the evidence that it is rolled on, however I want to point out I want to experiment a little more with finishing to see if I can polish this out. The plan is to get the final coats on and get the panels back on then a light sand with 2000 grit wet and dry then a polish.
 
The materials:
I am using a foam roll on purchased from bunnings for around 20 dollars including 10 spare rollers. The idea with this paint is to roll it on the follow quickly with a brush to burst the bubbles, I purchased a good quality brush from bunnings as well (cost around 14 dollars), obviously not the most expensive but did not want to swearing at inanimate objects because a hair has come off and been trapped in my new paint job. I also bought a tin of enamel thinners. The paint is made by a company named International and the product name is “Toplac”.

IMG_6984.jpg


The application:
I firstly took to sanding all panels down with some 240 grit paper, not back to bare metal however but merely just to get a good surface for the paint to grip onto. The one (and only) good thing that can be said for enamel is that it can paint over anything, if you can’t tell I’m not a fan of enamel and never have been. Always prone to runs and could never get an ideal finish from it so sided with acrylic paints over the years. Once the paint has been smoothed over with the orbital sander I cleaned the surface with the air compressor and then a tack rag, finally I wiped the surface over with some GP thinners and a clean rag. Initially I had no idea what the correct technique would be to apply it but I found the best results to be from a half loaded foam roller with only light rolling to avoid runs which will come thick and fast if you press on the roller. The application seems to benefit from speed, that is the quicker it goes on and the quicker the brush runs behind it the smoother the final result will be. The guide given on the website calls for painting in the shade and drying in the shade also, a contradiction to most painting I have done but after seeing just how quickly this paint dries I can easily see why this is advised. If you leave this paint for 1 minute without completing your touch ups with the brush it will dry and the runs and strokes will dry with it which will require sanding after the paint dries. Trying to fix your mistake at this stage when it’s dry will only make things worse so I advise just leaving it and coming back the next day, anything can be sanded out and good news that it seems very sandable and easy to get those stroke marks out and orange peel out too.

Some points to consider if using this paint:

- Speed is key: Apply as quickly as possible and smooth with a brush as quickly as possible, the longer you leave the paint to settle the better the result.
- Paint in the shade: I tried to paint a panel in the sun, once, and the paint dried so fast I had a significant amount of rubbing back required to get it looking pretty again (~25-30degree day).
- Don’t apply too light: Too light leaves streak marks far more defined than a semi loaded brush. Obviously you don’t want to load to brush to saturation but a semi loaded brush with light strokes seems to dollop the paint on leaving minimal stroke marks.
- It’s not a spray job: I have to concede this is not a spray job so don’t expect a spray job result, maybe my technique needs fine tuning but it it not anywhere near the quality of the job sprayed on but keep in mind this is half the price and probably 30% reduced labour time.
- Sand between coats: Put one coat down the sand with ~1500 grit paper to get rid of the orange peel and imperfections, don’t leave it till final coat as it just shows through and you will have a good coat of paint to get through to get to the imperfections.
 
I will endure to get the best quality finish and I am still confident I can get some sort of quality result with a bit of fine wet and dry sanding followed by a light polishing compound. I will keep the thread updated with my results.

Any questions about what I’ve done or the paint just ask.

Ok enough talk, time for some pictures:

Tail gate sanded ready for first coat
IMG_6971-1.jpg


Door sanded ready for first coat
IMG_6970-1.jpg


First coat on door
IMG_6976-1.jpg
 
First coat on tail gate
IMG_6974-1.jpg


Door and guard after second coat
IMG_6972.jpg


Spook with less pieces on her
IMG_6977-1.jpg


Spook sanded waiting for a hand to lift canopy off
IMG_6979.jpg


Another angle showing the engine cause it gives me a chubby just looking at it
IMG_6982.jpg


Canopy off ready to roll.. literally!
IMG_6985.jpg


Other side sanded and waiting
IMG_6986.jpg
 
Ok there's more to the story but I'll put it up a bit at a time to make it not seem like a novel.

Cheers,
Peter
 
So I am looking forward to more about the motor set-up. And the paint is coming together nicely, is that the final color or will she get a top coat.

Tucker
 
You guys are reading the original topic, it's the Maroon Prado that's a pos, that Runner is gonna be priceless when it's done! :cool:

**For all us Yanks, the term "tourer" in the first post is what we affectionately call "expedition rated", but to a higher degree since there's little empty space stateside, a "tourer" basically is specc'd to go out into the vast abyss of red dirt and get your ass safely home.

Definitely looking forward to more in this thread!!
 
Thanks for the welcome guys, it is the least I can do to return the enormous amount of information I have gained from reading this site.

As for "tourer" yes NorCalBorn hit the nail on the head I'm sure Americans are well aware of our modification (read: butchering if a pommy) of the English language so if there is any terms not understood please feel free to ask.
 
So I am looking forward to more about the motor set-up. And the paint is coming together nicely, is that the final color or will she get a top coat.

Tucker

That is certainly the final colour it was Atlantic Grey if my memory serves me well, which at the time I believed would give closest to a gun metal grey however over the past couple of months it has been come to be called "primer grey" or "storm cloud grey". :grinpimp:
 
Hey guys,

Time for another update I think. The painting is complete and I’ve been undertaking the fiddly little jobs like putting door trims back together and windscreen surround etc. This wouldn’t seem like much of a job but with my forceful hands I seem to break every old clip I get my hands onto, which means I have to find alternative ways to secure things to other things (can you feel the technical nature of this thread). The good news is that there is probably only one more day in the car to get it all back together and hopefully have it ready for registration. This is not even close to the end of the mods it’s just I’m stinging to get it road legal so I can hit a few local spots and take it for a burn up the beach.

I’ll put up some pics now showing the final product of the paint. I still haven’t tried to cut it down any to see how good I can get it though I’m happy enough with the results considering it cost me a total of 120 dollars including all materials with around half a litre left over for touch ups. Although the stroke marks aren’t strikingly obvious there is a considerable amount of orange peel when I put down the second coat on the body but I’m not sure there’s much I can do about it. Wait.... that’s not right there is something I can do about it, just say it was meant to have a hammertone finish... yes... brewhahaha. No nothing sinister I just don’t mind the affect and it can barely be noticeable more than 1 metre away, standing 2 metres away it looks like any other paint job.
Ok more updates in a few days once it’s all back together I’ll put a few pics up to show the work,

Cheers dudes!

Peter
 
First coat down:

IMG_6989.jpg


Another angle (first coat) pre sand:

IMG_6990.jpg


Another angle (first coat) pre sand:

IMG_6991.jpg


Another angle (first coat) pre sand, Those white specks are rain drops:

IMG_6992.jpg


Last angle (first coat) pre sand:

IMG_6993.jpg
 
Better angle showing the gloss:

IMG_6998.jpg


Another angle showing the paint:

IMG_6999.jpg


Another angle showing the final paint:

IMG_7000.jpg


And that's all I got, will update again in a few.
 

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