Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (3 Viewers)

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I was out trying to decide HOW to do my bumper and WHAT to do for sliders. I need to fabricate removable connectors between the lower link frame mounts too.

I think I'm going to go with flat steel instead of tube for the bumper. I liked the bumper I built for my 88 so this will be a 2.0 version of it. I have the connectors between the lower links figured out but I am undecided on the sliders. I've only had the typical 1 3/4" DOM tube sliders and they're ok, but I have bent them so I'm thinking about something else.

Any better design suggestions? Anybody running square or rectangular tube? They do need to function as a step. I'll probably grab some steel tomorrow.
 
i think you're probably fine with DOM, just go bigger than .120 and use frame scabs with spines on the outriggers.
my sliders are.156 pipe and no problem with the main tubes at all. issues where my frame doesn't have scab plates 😕
 
@gnob, my frame HAD plates and gussets on the tubes. I used .120 wall and they held up to "almost" everything. The bottoms of the tube eventually got pretty beat. (expected) After a couple slips off a ledge my driver side bent up enough that my door dragged on it. I have to admit, they DID hold up for a long time. I just never tried square or rectangular tube.

I mounted them angled up. I might mount them flat if I do it again. Just to make it easier for us to get in. Maybe more tubes to the frame. And/or a combination of square and round tube. :hmm:
 
Sliders are cantilevered quite a ways out from the frame rail. I'd be looking to make the mount a trapeziod of sorts. Top surface tapering to the top of the frame, bottom surface tapering as they go to the bottom of the frame. Fill in the middle to make them a box section. Could even make them taper so that they're wide at the frame and narrow-ish at the slider.
 
@ntsqd, I'm having a hard time visualizing that. It sounds like boat side skid plates. So trapezoid like braces instead of a single tube sticking out from the frame rails?

Or maybe an extra tube to triangulate to the slider instead of the single tube with a gusset?

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IMO those braces will hung up on rocks.
 
That is what I was thinking, and that is my concern. However, run some tubing in the gap along the bottom so that rock points can't get in there as easily, or plate them (removable or permanent?) ala how MORR did the sliders on the "World's Biggest Tow Truck" (or whatever Matt's calling that thing).
 
I don’t wheel at the same level you’re going to but this is what I built for my truck using square tube. The main tube is 2x2 .25” and the other tube is 1 1/4 x 1 1/4 .12 wall. I should’ve probably added some bracing for where they bolt on when I first built them. This is just to give an idea for square tubing.

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Thanks Mudder, I kinda like the square under the rocker and round outside. I'm still trying to figure out how far out and plated or not.

Thanks for the pics. How well do the bolt on brackets work?
 
@gnob, my frame HAD plates and gussets on the tubes. I used .120 wall and they held up to "almost" everything. The bottoms of the tube eventually got pretty beat. (expected) After a couple slips off a ledge my driver side bent up enough that my door dragged on it. I have to admit, they DID hold up for a long time. I just never tried square or rectangular tube.

I mounted them angled up. I might mount them flat if I do it again. Just to make it easier for us to get in. Maybe more tubes to the frame. And/or a combination of square and round tube. :hmm:

Sliders are a consumable, IMHO.

My xtracab has a couple of dents (they are DOM)... I had them off for body work and purchased a set of AllPro APEX to replace them.

Ended up putting the originals back on. This may be a "use what works, don't over think" opportunity?
 
I pretty much made up my mind based on the last set. Going flat instead of angled up so my wife and I can get in and out easier. A step plate for the same reason and avoid anything that's a rock anchor as much as possible. I just like to see what others have done for inspiration. Lots of creative members on this forum.
 
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I pretty much made up my mind based on the last set. Going flat instead of angled up so my wife and I can get in and out easier. A step late for the same reason and avoid anything that's a rock anchor as much as possible. I just like to see what others have done for inspiration. Lots of creative members on this forum.
Happy wife happy life !
When the Wife go's with I carry the little fold out step 😆 seen in the picture, top of Black Bear pass last year at SAS
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Happy wife happy life !
When the Wife go's with I carry the little fold out step 😆 seen in the picture, top of Black Bear pass last year at SAS

HAH! I have one of those steps in the 4Runner so I can get in the back easier. I also have one in the Venza so I can get to the roof rack. Recently I upgraded and bought a double wide folding step from HomeDepot. It's in the 4R. It's a bigger target when I'm coming down off the tailgate.
 
Thanks Mudder, I kinda like the square under the rocker and round outside. I'm still trying to figure out how far out and plated or not.

Thanks for the pics. How well do the bolt on brackets work?
I haven’t had issues but the brackets are a tight fit, tight enough I have to use a hammer and pry vary to get them on and off. I did those so the bolt wouldn’t have much force on it (in my head, I could be way off on that). I used one grade 8 bolt through the top of the brackets (not sure what size) to hold them on.
 
I struck out at the metal supply place today. Not many choices in Tucson. (That I know of ) I usually buy remnants but the steel racks were empty and they only had one 10 foot piece of 1 3/4" DOM. I usually get 20 foot sticks.

I found some 10 gauge cold rolled sheet in stock at another place that I'll pick up tomorrow.
 
Admittedly, Patty is built for lighter duty 'wheeling than you're planning. But my needs (wants) were similar - protect the body and function as a step. Oh, and look kinda integrated.

Vertically, they're even with the widest point of the fender. That seemed like it'd protect the body, work as a step and "fit" the truck's lines. The ends are cut and capped to match the angle of the wheel opening - as opposed to just cut at 90s or 45s.

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