- Thread starter
- #1,921
I cut a couple pieces of 1/4" to add to the face of the "mount" area at the cross member.
Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter aztoyman
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #1,922
I finally made a decision for my air filter. I really wanted a Donaldson housing and filter. I just don't have the room. I ordered the filter but haven't gotten it yet. It's going in the same place as this one. Bigger version of this filter. About twice the length and with a 4" opening that transitions down to the 2 3/4" stock intake tube size. I'll probably end up fabricating a shield to deflect any hot air off the radiator down through the wheel well.
Once that's in I'll permanently mount the steering reservoir. Preferably close to the pump.
Once that's in I'll permanently mount the steering reservoir. Preferably close to the pump.
- Thread starter
- #1,923
My coolant recovery tank is shot. It's brittle, crumbling and has JB Weld on the bottom. I'm not paying what they want for a stock type replacement. I saw this cheapie universal 800 ml aluminum one on Amazon. It looks like the same exact kit sold under different brand names and different prices. This one was on sale because they forgot to drill a vent hole in the cap. It was only $11 so I don't mind drilling and tapping a hole for a vent fitting and hose. I can mount it using the original bolt holes and free up some space for other stuff I need to put there.
ntsqd
technerd
Finding a place to stuff those Donaldson or UMP filter housings is a trick. Before you give up completely have a look at the filter assembly used on late model GM Vans. They're a similar design, but a bit smaller in diameter and might work for you.
Like this, but can be found for less: https://www.ebay.com/itm/316184171797 Mine was $50 a couple of months ago.
Like this, but can be found for less: https://www.ebay.com/itm/316184171797 Mine was $50 a couple of months ago.
- Thread starter
- #1,925
Thanks for the info, I'll check it out. The one I picked from Donaldson was based on their selection guide that calculates size based on displacement, RPM and HP. It ended up being 8" diameter and 18" long plus the inlet and outlet and mount.
The problem is closing the hood. Would probably fit otherwise.
The problem is closing the hood. Would probably fit otherwise.
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- Thread starter
- #1,926
A friend of mine is going to sell me some DOM and HREW tubing. He was building tube chassis for a company but work dropped off recently. Bad for him but he's helping me out and for less money than IMS.
- Thread starter
- #1,927
I don't want you guys to think I gave up. I've been working on everybody's stuff but my own. Plus life has been happening like crazy. I picked away at what I could whenever I had a moment. I ordered stuff I needed and I have a little progress to show.
Here's the bracket I made for my coolant recovery bottle. I also drilled and tapped the lid so I could vent it. I used a swivel 90 push lock fitting so I can easily check the level without removing the vent hose.
Here's the bracket I made for my coolant recovery bottle. I also drilled and tapped the lid so I could vent it. I used a swivel 90 push lock fitting so I can easily check the level without removing the vent hose.
- Thread starter
- #1,928
I made a similar but larger bracket for the power steering reservoir. After checking clearance from the closed hood I see I have room to raise it higher.
- Thread starter
- #1,929
I got the larger Injen air filter positioned. I still need to fabricate a brace to support the end.
- Thread starter
- #1,930
The hoses do tuck behind the radiator support.
Getting closer !!
- Thread starter
- #1,932
The transitions inside the intake tubing are really smooth. 4" filter into a short 4" plenum tapering to the 2 3/4" MAF tube and throttle body.
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- Thread starter
- #1,933
I'm working on my battery and winch wiring and pretty sure what I have in mind is going to work. I'll get pics soon.
The weather put a halt on my bumper since I'm welding in the driveway. I may go get tubing from my buddy this weekend. I sold my 88 cab and I'll use the money for some tubing.
I was able to bend my A/C hard line that was interfering with my grill mount and my steering reservoir.
The weather put a halt on my bumper since I'm welding in the driveway. I may go get tubing from my buddy this weekend. I sold my 88 cab and I'll use the money for some tubing.
I was able to bend my A/C hard line that was interfering with my grill mount and my steering reservoir.
- Thread starter
- #1,934
Thanks Broski, I'm trying.
- Thread starter
- #1,935
I'll give you guys a hint of what I'm hoping to do for my wiring. So I'll have some super flexible 2/0 cable running from my battery under the floor behind the passenger to where the battery WAS. Here's the space I have available. You can see some of the upgraded headlight wiring laying there. I will be cleaning that up. The 2/0 cables will be coming from the lower left between the fender and charcoal canister in the pic.
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- Thread starter
- #1,936
I don't have a sheet metal brake, bead roller or dimple dies so I had to go shade tree sheet metal shop. I bent up the top of what I'm going to mount my components in/on using my vise and some scrap steel. On the top will be the battery jump terminals. I attached it to the inner fender with threaded inserts.
- Thread starter
- #1,937
I still need to fabricate a side plate that will tie into the fender below that will provide a mounting surface for my remote winch solenoid. This is all 500 amp plus capacity stuff so it's not small. The solenoid only uses power while switching.
- Thread starter
- #1,938
The jumper terminals are where they are for a couple reasons. I wanted the positive away from the body or anything it could potentially arc to when connecting jumper cables. The ground isn't an issue. I even hooked up my jumper cables to verify the positions. The positive is also further from the bottom of the hood.
They're offset because I have to fit some fat cables under that plate and this orientation allows good routing of the wiring.
The alternator, starter and ground to the block also will attach to the bottom of the terminals. There's room on top for a 6 circuit fuse block with power and ground that I'll use to clean up the headlight upgrade wiring and my light bar plus a couple extras.
When I had the fender off to install the inserts I could look across and verify clearance from the hood. I saw I had room to raise my steering reservoir too.
They're offset because I have to fit some fat cables under that plate and this orientation allows good routing of the wiring.
The alternator, starter and ground to the block also will attach to the bottom of the terminals. There's room on top for a 6 circuit fuse block with power and ground that I'll use to clean up the headlight upgrade wiring and my light bar plus a couple extras.
When I had the fender off to install the inserts I could look across and verify clearance from the hood. I saw I had room to raise my steering reservoir too.
- Thread starter
- #1,939
I mounted my "plate/bracket" with my components in place. Then I used a fat extension cord, crawled under the truck and ran it where I plan on routing the battery cables. Looks like I need 36 feet of 2/0 cable to go from the battery to the jumper terminals and on to the winch.
- Thread starter
- #1,940
Since I no longer have the stock air box I lost my hose connections for the PCV inlet and for the hose to the charcoal canister. So I bought a pair of bulkhead hose barbs and modified them (cut off one end) to fit in the 4" tube between the air filter and the reducer coupling. I didn't think I could TIG it without screwing it up. Fits perfect between the couplers and now I have a filtered air source. I still need to install a seal at each fitting.
