Builds 85 4runner build (1 Viewer)

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I see what look like cross-over steering arms, but the torque rod is still hooked up. With the cross-over steering you need to remove the torque rod.
It's original steering.
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which begs the question, why not?
I figured people have run stock steering for years. I don't plan on going more than 31s and no black diamond trails. If it causes issues, I'll swap it.
 
There are benefits to stock steering like having a sway bar for the road which makes a big difference. Also stock steering has less turns of the steering wheel lock to lock. I ran 32s with stock steering for years and never had an issue. I wish someone had come up with crossover steering that retains the sway bar for the road.(obviously disconnect for trail)
 
Finally got my calipers back but the pads don't line up with the rotor. I used FJ60 rotors and V6 calipers. Not sure what went wrong. Theres about an 1/8" overlap to the outside of the rotor. Any ideas?

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Try reversing the pads. I seem to recall there is an inside and outside.
 
Try reversing the pads. I seem to recall there is an inside and outside.
I'll try that but they're both equally sticking out.

Is there a difference in the V6 pads between say 88-94? I think I ordered 88 pads and the calipers are S13WB so 92-95?
 
Ok so looking at McGeorge Toyota online parts (30% off btw), there's multiple brake pads between 88-94.
From 03/1988 04465-35260 (what I have)
To 12/1993 04465-35140
T100 12/93 04465-35061 says this fits 94 4runner also.

I'm lost haha
I have S13WB castings. Not sure of year. And 35260 pads don't fit.
Might try the 35061 pads. Hopefully the contact patch is better
 
Nice ride! I know I want me another 1st gen too. Following :)
Thanks. Do it! Can still get them for around 3k. I almost bought one for 2700 just for the original Can-Back softop it had but unfortunately sold while I was messaging the guy
 
Finished up the front end rebuild, lift, and gas tank install. Had 1 injector O-ring spraying so had to take it all apart. But it is running way better than when I bought it. Still haven't driven it other than around the neighborhood before I bought it, and into my shop.
Spoiler alert… It’ll still be slow:hillbilly:

I miss mine.
 
There IS a difference in V6 brake pads.
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Left one is for an 88. Right is for a 94.

I noticed on 2 different 2nd gen 4runners I looked at, the pads had that ridge on the outside of the rotor. Wonder if the parts store sell a standard pad for all V6s?

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No more overlap!
 
Finally got it on the road and the rear is making a bad grumbling noise. I had preemptively ordered rear bearings/seals but was hoping to do it after this summer.

Looking at rebuilt 3rds from eastcoastgearsupply. I would like to upgrade to the V6 3rd but they don't offer 4.11

Should I stick with the 4 cylinder 3rd?

How much difference in strength?

Could I run 4.10 rear with 4.11 front?
 
Any opinions on limited slip vs lunchbox lockers?
Looking at Grizzly or Truetrac.
Ideally, I'd like selectable but out of the price range right now.
 
4.11, 4.10 same
v6 definitely stronger, bigger bearings.
imo lunchbox lockers are trash.
keep your eyes peeled for people parting rigs.
you can get great deals on already geared/locked diffs.
also watch for elockers.
 
4.11, 4.10 same
v6 definitely stronger, bigger bearings.
imo lunchbox lockers are trash.
keep your eyes peeled for people parting rigs.
you can get great deals on already geared/locked diffs.
also watch for elockers.
I have an e-locker 3rd at home. I was under the impression they don't work in a non ifs (narrower) rear axle. Plus I need to get it re-geared and wire it in, modify the housing, etc.
That might be the ideal route. Not sure why I hadn't really thought about using it
 
I'm glad you found and posted about the brake pads. I had the same S13WB calipers from a T100 on my truck and the last set of pads fit like that. I ran them with no problems. Must be what the parts stores sell like you said.

As far as lockers, I've run Detroit Lockers, Tru-Trac's and I have Aussie's in my truck now.

The two lockers operated the same to me. I doubt I could tell the difference of which was which. They take some getting used to on the street.

I had Tru-Trac's front and rear before I put in the Aussie's. They worked really well on the street, sand and snow. They did not work well rock crawling once you lifted a wheel.

My wife's FJ Cruiser has the factory E-Locker and it works every time. We're in the dry desert so no issues with the motor hanging up.

If you want a selectable, get one. Like gnob said, look for the deals that ARE out there.
 

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