So let me get this straight. The H151F will bolt up to a 2F engine because it has the same bellhousing pattern as the 151's original 3F. The one problem is that the split case TC will not bolt to the H151F. Is that right?
Mike S,
How much is that kit?
I want to get a five-speed before I convert to diesel, but I want the five-speed to be compatible with the diesel when I get it. Thanks guys!
I feel your pain. There is no easy answer, except to pick the Diesel engine and tranny / Tcase combo you want to use and buy the whole set up.
Or go the the H55F that will fit your 2F, THEN go shopping for a motor that will work. There is, I think, both a B series and an H series engine that will fit the 2F compatible H55F, but I am not sure.
Another way to go is a GM compatible Diesel and GM to H55F adaptor - might be the simplist solution.
I agree on the H55f but on one issue. That tranny will not mount up to the engine that I want to eventually purchase, which is a 1HDT. The H151F will. I am in love with inline-six engines. They sound and drive so nicely not only in Cruisers, but in bimmers and Jeeps as well; my uncle has the Jeeps, not me.
Here's an idea. What if one found a H151F for the 3F engine with the 3F input shaft (obviously). I could run that until I bought the diesel that I want. When I get that engine, could I just have the input shaft changed to fit the 1HDT? How hard would that be? $$$$?
Here's an idea. What if one found a H151F for the 3F engine with the 3F input shaft (obviously). I could run that until I bought the diesel that I want. When I get that engine, could I just have the input shaft changed to fit the 1HDT? How hard would that be? $$$$?
Hard, with parts not readily available. If you want basically plug and play, you want an H55f. That swap into an FJ60 while not simple, has been done many times and all the parts needed are available in current stock from Toyota. If you want "maybe a diesel" or "willing to run a 3FE", I would suggest firmly making up your mind and doing it right the first time. If you are going to get an odd-ball motor, that will have it's rewards, but parts available overnight from Cruiserdan will not be one of them. If you really want a diesel 60, I reccomend you buy a BJ60 or HJ60 from Canada and simplify your headaches. It will come with an H55 mated to a split T-case and you'll be all set. For what you will spend in time money and hassle, doing a super custom diesel conversion, you could buy the whole truck and rebuild all the systems.
By the way, I'm pretty sure a gasoline H55f can be easily mated to a GM diesel-you could consider that.
In theory though, disregarding being able to find parts for later, a H151f from a 3FE will work on a 2F engine, right? The bellhousing patterns match up if I am correct.
I think your case is fine. I am using an 87 case because I found one pretty cheap and it has the 38mm idler shaft that started in 4/86 and is supposedly stronger. Check this link from the ih8mud tech section. It gives his experience with a 9/84 t-case like yours and it worked fine.
Mudrak does these all the time for the 84s and down and charges more because a different shift linkage is needed and the driveshafts have to be shortened/lengthened. If you still have doubts, call him.
On your drive shafts, I will get mine re sized which is only $75 each. The later shafts have the wrong bolt pattern for the earlier t-case and differentials.
I have some questions for someone with experience with rebuilding transfers and gearboxes.
1. When dismantling my HJ60 transfercase the oil clerance of the high gear on the output axle was questionable. The low gear was a little dodgy as well. Is the brass bushings inside the wheels possible to exhange? The FSM does not speak of this possibillity but the parts list I got from my connection in Australia posts them.
2. When I am to dismantle the 5 speed, can I expect the main shaft to be worn on this box given that the gears so far has looked very nice in the transfer?
3. Are the gears in the 5speed also equipped with the brass bushings inside or are they like the idler gear in the transfer?
4. Do you think it is nessesary to order the 1 / 2 syncro assembly. The boxes has about 200.000 miles of pure road miles and everything worked fine, nothing popped out of gear. The only thing was a slight humming from bearings on some gear (think it was 5th.)
5. Any general tips on rebuilding boxes? Hear it is smart to have clearances as tight as possible.
I am planning on the complete rebuild as I have purchased komplete kits for both boxes from SOR. I find it strange that the bushings are not beeing offered as well as syncro rings. With my limited experience from this kind of work it seems obvious that all parts included the syncros and bushings must be changed if the rebuild is to have any value.
Dan
PS I could not upload picture. Do they have to be of certain format (Size) as well as of the JPG/GIF type?
I can reply only to #1. The gears should not be loose on the shaft. Both the output shaft and the bronze bushings can be had from Toyota. I know the output shaft is pricy. Since you are going to all the owrk anyway, I would replace the bronze bushings, and if the shaft clearence is still sloppy (heh heh) then I would buy a new shaft.
Since the real work in all of this is just labor, anything questionalbe, I would just replace. I was lucky that my shaft and bushings were in good shape. If your output shaft has that much wear, don't forget to replace that tiny pilot bushing in the front of the rear output shaft.
