- Thread starter
- #61
Saw the thread, looks great so far! I am very impressed at work while laying under the vehicle. It is not fun to lay on your back and remove rust and dirt while it falls on you.
83 FJ60 Build up thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Project60
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Saw the thread, looks great so far! I am very impressed at work while laying under the vehicle. It is not fun to lay on your back and remove rust and dirt while it falls on you.
Thanks for the compliment. I researched a little trying to find some way to rent a lift bay for that very reason, but in the end I just decided to grin and bare it. It will take a while to get all of the underside to look that nice, but it will be worth it.
I will definately follow your build, and also post more pics of progress on my 60.
I will definately follow your build, and also post more pics of progress on my 60.
- Thread starter
- #63
Disassembly work
Finally got to spend some time on the 60 tonight. 1hr 20 minutes.
I finished pulling the rear bumper. Had to drill out almost every bolt. Little rusty not too bad. I dropped the spare tire. Tire looked good, I think its the original as it still has the little "nubs" on it. Rim is rusty on the inside though. I pulled th passanger rear mudflap, driver side was already gone. You can see in the picture how bad the damage to the passenger quarterpanel is as well. I took a few pictures of the rust in the unboxed section of the frame as well.
Rear Bumper Removed:
Spare Tire:
Damage to Pass Quarter Panel:
Rust in unboxed section of frame:
Finally got to spend some time on the 60 tonight. 1hr 20 minutes.
I finished pulling the rear bumper. Had to drill out almost every bolt. Little rusty not too bad. I dropped the spare tire. Tire looked good, I think its the original as it still has the little "nubs" on it. Rim is rusty on the inside though. I pulled th passanger rear mudflap, driver side was already gone. You can see in the picture how bad the damage to the passenger quarterpanel is as well. I took a few pictures of the rust in the unboxed section of the frame as well.
Rear Bumper Removed:
Spare Tire:
Damage to Pass Quarter Panel:
Rust in unboxed section of frame:
- Thread starter
- #64
Body Removal Questions
To all those who have done this in the past I had a question:
Do I need to drop the gas tank? It looks like the tank is strapped to the body and not the frame, is this correct?
To all those who have done this in the past I had a question:
Do I need to drop the gas tank? It looks like the tank is strapped to the body and not the frame, is this correct?
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- Sep 26, 2003
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Correct, the tank & fill neck can stay w/ the body as it is lifted off the frame. You'll need to disconnect the 2 fuel lines and a vapor line that connect to the frame.
- Thread starter
- #66
- Thread starter
- #67
Disassembly work
Spent another 1hr and 20min on the 60 tonight.
I drained the fuel tank into a 5 gallon bucket. About 2 gallons came out. Not too bad, a little orange. I unhooked the supply, return and vent lines where they attached to the frame. All three are above the rear axle on the passenger side.
I removed the front wheels and put jack stands under the frame. I don't like the option I have to remove the body from the frame, but I am going to have to lift the body and put it onto a cart while I work on the frame (doesn't look like I have enough height for a rotisserie either). Due to limited space, I will have to roll the body into the backyard and cover it with a tarp. When I am done with the frame, I will put the body in the garage and frame outside.
On a side note... what do you do with gas that has been sitting in an old car for over 4 years?
Spent another 1hr and 20min on the 60 tonight.
I drained the fuel tank into a 5 gallon bucket. About 2 gallons came out. Not too bad, a little orange. I unhooked the supply, return and vent lines where they attached to the frame. All three are above the rear axle on the passenger side.
I removed the front wheels and put jack stands under the frame. I don't like the option I have to remove the body from the frame, but I am going to have to lift the body and put it onto a cart while I work on the frame (doesn't look like I have enough height for a rotisserie either). Due to limited space, I will have to roll the body into the backyard and cover it with a tarp. When I am done with the frame, I will put the body in the garage and frame outside.
On a side note... what do you do with gas that has been sitting in an old car for over 4 years?
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
- Threads
- 117
- Messages
- 11,207
- Location
- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
Burn it on a brushfire. IME, the stuff won't explode, 'cause it's barely capable of supporting combustion.Spent another 1hr and 20min on the 60 tonight.
I drained the fuel tank into a 5 gallon bucket. About 2 gallons came out. Not too bad, a little orange.
On a side note... what do you do with gas that has been sitting in an old car for over 4 years?
- Thread starter
- #69
I hear that. It was probably half water anyway.
On a side note... what do you do with gas that has been sitting in an old car for over 4 years?
spell out your name in the street with it in the middle of the night and light it on fire and take pics and post em here on MUD.
What are your plans for the rear of the frame?
I have drilled out all the rivits holding in the stiffening channel to removing it.
The channel itself was the cause of almost all the rust in that section and the rot all came with it.
I haven't decided if i should box in the rest of the frame using through spacers to mount the hangers or replace the channel as it was.
I have drilled out all the rivits holding in the stiffening channel to removing it.
The channel itself was the cause of almost all the rust in that section and the rot all came with it.
I haven't decided if i should box in the rest of the frame using through spacers to mount the hangers or replace the channel as it was.
- Thread starter
- #72
spell out your name in the street with it in the middle of the night and light it on fire and take pics and post em here on MUD.
Too late. If I would have thought of it, I would have done it. The neighbors are already beginning to hate me and I haven't even started with the sandblasting yet.
- Thread starter
- #73
Frame repair
Baxter, I haven't figured that out yet. I thought of drilling out the channel and boxing it in. If I replace the channel, it is just going to repeat itself in another 25 years . I am leaning towards boxing it in unless someone else has a clever idea.
Baxter, I haven't figured that out yet. I thought of drilling out the channel and boxing it in. If I replace the channel, it is just going to repeat itself in another 25 years
. I am leaning towards boxing it in unless someone else has a clever idea.
- Thread starter
- #74
Disassembly work
Spent 25 minutes on the 60 tonight.
Pulled the rear wheels and got ready to lift the body off, nothing special. A few missing wheel nuts and one that was 3/16" rather than 21mm.
And here is what is slowing things down. I am getting close, but still more trim to go.
Spent 25 minutes on the 60 tonight.
Pulled the rear wheels and got ready to lift the body off, nothing special. A few missing wheel nuts and one that was 3/16" rather than 21mm.
And here is what is slowing things down. I am getting close, but still more trim to go.
- Thread starter
- #75
Disassembly work
Spent 1.5 hours on the 60 yesterday.
Took off the 10 body mounts with an impact wrench. All but 3 came off with little effort. Had to cut the last 3 off with a cut off wheel. Removed the e-brake cable from the cab and dropped it down to the frame.
I should have the body off the frame here shortly and will have to roll it out to the backyard while I work on the frame. Of course that means a new gate on the fence, so bear with me.
Spent 1.5 hours on the 60 yesterday.
Took off the 10 body mounts with an impact wrench. All but 3 came off with little effort. Had to cut the last 3 off with a cut off wheel. Removed the e-brake cable from the cab and dropped it down to the frame.
I should have the body off the frame here shortly and will have to roll it out to the backyard while I work on the frame. Of course that means a new gate on the fence, so bear with me.
I just finished a frame swap and I removed the inner c-channel on my new frame and boxed it in. Rather than putting in sleeves to bolt things back on I Welded nuts on the inside of the frame. Digging out that inner channel is NO FUN!!! Let me know if I can answer any questions.
Ken
Ken
here's a picture of the frame boxed in with 3/16 plate.
Ken
Ken
I have heard that when you weld on a frame there is a "right" way and a "wrong" way to do it, is this true and how did you do it?
Thanks
Jonathan
Thanks
Jonathan
The only thing I have heard is that You're not supposed to do vertical welds on a frame because it will make a breakable spot. But I did it anyways. The factory does a vertical weld on each frame rail, so why can't I? I think It wight be more of an issue when you're welding all the way around the frame, ie: lengthening/shortening. Other than that, I just cranked up the welder and tried to get as good of penetration as possible. Hope that helps
Ken
I think It wight be more of an issue when you're welding all the way around the frame, ie: lengthening/shortening. Other than that, I just cranked up the welder and tried to get as good of penetration as possible. Hope that helpsKen
There is a right and wrong way to weld on a frame, if you do long welds up vertically, especially on the main "c" of the frame then you are almost cutting it. If you are "splicing" the inside box of the frame and at the splice you weld vertically - that is ok, since it is a joint and a weld is better then nothing (also stronger). You also don't want to do weld on the top and bottom from inside to out, as this also "gouges" the steel.
For those that have never seen it, make a "T" with some scrap steel and weld the joint all the way to the end. Then have a look at that end and you'll see how much metal is actually melted away and replaced by whatever filler you use during welding.
As for the factory welds, they only do short welds vertically, unless you include the inside filler plate which is not that important as the outside "c". Also notice how they do not weld anything to the underside (suspension mounts) but rivet it.
For those that have never seen it, make a "T" with some scrap steel and weld the joint all the way to the end. Then have a look at that end and you'll see how much metal is actually melted away and replaced by whatever filler you use during welding.
As for the factory welds, they only do short welds vertically, unless you include the inside filler plate which is not that important as the outside "c". Also notice how they do not weld anything to the underside (suspension mounts) but rivet it.
