crushers
post ho
your clips are for the longer crank bars ...
81 BJ42 - I have to bring it home and pass inspection
- Thread starter Awl_TEQ
- Start date
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I think it's the first time I see your 45 not covered in parts!
This is a lot of work to "pass inspection"..... unless you're going to pebble beach?
If ever you have a spare tool bag, keep me in mind. Would look good when mine is done....
Nice work!
This is a lot of work to "pass inspection"..... unless you're going to pebble beach?
If ever you have a spare tool bag, keep me in mind. Would look good when mine is done....
Nice work!
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #305
To pass the out of provence safety inspection there can be no holes in the bodywork that can allow exhaust gasses to enter the cab. That means I must patch the holes. If I HAVE TO patch the holes then I'm gonna fix the rust. If I'm going to fix the rust then I'm gonna do it right. Its just the way I do things. If I can avoid work I will but if I can't then I will go all the way. If I do something I do it. If I don't then I don't start it.
crushers
post ho
aluminum tape over the holes and a skim of bondo is faster, still legal, cheaper
but
i would expect no less than this thread from you after getting to know you on Mud.
but
i would expect no less than this thread from you after getting to know you on Mud.
Chamba
Too short. Too long. Just right: the 43
Those clips are for your two-piece crank handle, not an engine crank. Each piece is about 2' long. I've never seen an engine crank on a diesel rig as new as yours.
That stepped tool is for installing your centre cap without whacking it directly with a hammer. Not sure what the other two are for.
Josh
That stepped tool is for installing your centre cap without whacking it directly with a hammer. Not sure what the other two are for.
Josh
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #317
DO NOT FOLLOW ME LEAD HERE!!
Don't do it this way. I'll explain later. This is what I did. Don't do it this way.
I decided, without enough forethought, to cut away the inner panel rust and leave the outer panel intact. My thinking was I could use the outer panel to locate the inner one correctly. For that purpose it worked fine. So I cut away the inner panel and ground off what was left of the spot welds. I trimmed and added drain holes and spot weld holes to the patch. So far so good, right?
Don't do it this way. I'll explain later. This is what I did. Don't do it this way.
I decided, without enough forethought, to cut away the inner panel rust and leave the outer panel intact. My thinking was I could use the outer panel to locate the inner one correctly. For that purpose it worked fine. So I cut away the inner panel and ground off what was left of the spot welds. I trimmed and added drain holes and spot weld holes to the patch. So far so good, right?
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #318
Then I flipped it over and cut away the outer panel rust. I trimmed a patch and welded it in.
So whats wrong you ask? You can't see it well here and I stopped taking pictures cuz I was dealing with the issue. You can see a bit of it in the third pic here. The weld along the bottom of the outer skin shrank. That put a hugh oilcan effect into the door skin. It bulged up and down and up again. It was horrible.
For those that don't weld I'll attempt to explain. Welding is melting metal. Molten metal is hot. Hot things expand. The $Hitty part comes when hot things cool. They shrink when they cool. They don't shrink much but when you weld a line, even tack,tack,tack a little at a time it will shrink enough to notice. Normally I would deal with it by hitting it with a body hammer and dolly. The impact of the hammer mushrooms the weld bead and effectively stretches it back.
But I can't put a dolly behind this weld because_I_already_welded_the_inner_panel_in_place.
So whats wrong you ask? You can't see it well here and I stopped taking pictures cuz I was dealing with the issue. You can see a bit of it in the third pic here. The weld along the bottom of the outer skin shrank. That put a hugh oilcan effect into the door skin. It bulged up and down and up again. It was horrible.
For those that don't weld I'll attempt to explain. Welding is melting metal. Molten metal is hot. Hot things expand. The $Hitty part comes when hot things cool. They shrink when they cool. They don't shrink much but when you weld a line, even tack,tack,tack a little at a time it will shrink enough to notice. Normally I would deal with it by hitting it with a body hammer and dolly. The impact of the hammer mushrooms the weld bead and effectively stretches it back.
But I can't put a dolly behind this weld because_I_already_welded_the_inner_panel_in_place.
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #319
I was tired and too confident and things went from bad to worse. I started hammering and cutting and welding and things just got worse. I should have just walked away and come back later but I kept going. Worse and worse it got until I finally walked away. I am too embarrassed to post a pick of the carnage but suffice it to say there will be a skim coat of filler from the door handle down to cover my gaff.
What I should have done was cut out the inner panel and dolly the weld bead down before re-welding the inner piece in. Lesson learned.
What I should have done was cut out the inner panel and dolly the weld bead down before re-welding the inner piece in. Lesson learned.
