Builds ?????????80 tm Build Input Requested (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Delancy
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #125
Layonnn said:Hahaha, have fun with that PHH
I can't wait. I've read more disgruntled post about the PHH than any other aspect of repair.
Makes me wonder why I feel the need to maintain the rear heater.
Layton,
I know you're family is in interior, so had a question about.
86ing the sunroof because I don't want to spend money on new glass, considering I'll never use it, and I generally don't care for the maintenance of (based on a 280z, Supra, Maxima, and a formerly owned, but brand new Expedition. I've never had any issues with anything except the window actuators in the Lexus line up. Sorry, I'm wordy.)
Anyhow, as part of the deletion, thinking of raising the headliner where the sunroof was.
Is it possible to fabricate a new headliner, even if two piece, to accomplish this economically?
- Thread starter
- #126
Spent several hours with WD-40, Goo Gone, 3-M Aerosol Adhesive Remover, and my finger nail to remove about 8" of adhesive left from the flares.
Read a thread about a 3-m pinstripe remover, and went to a local auto body supply house to acquire. They had, but suggested that a cheaper version might actually be more effective, and it was.
It's called a Smart Eraser Pad by Astro Pneumatic, and it'll chuck up in a 3/8" drill. The thing is literally a big eraser, and works like a dream compared to the previous attempt. One whole side took twenty minutes, and mostly due to stopping and cleaning the rubber from my ear to ear grin. Hahahaha.
$14.00 each, and I wound up going for a second a little more than halfway through.
Read a thread about a 3-m pinstripe remover, and went to a local auto body supply house to acquire. They had, but suggested that a cheaper version might actually be more effective, and it was.
It's called a Smart Eraser Pad by Astro Pneumatic, and it'll chuck up in a 3/8" drill. The thing is literally a big eraser, and works like a dream compared to the previous attempt. One whole side took twenty minutes, and mostly due to stopping and cleaning the rubber from my ear to ear grin. Hahahaha.
$14.00 each, and I wound up going for a second a little more than halfway through.
I went to Napa, bought about 5 ft of their highest quality silicon heater hose (the green one) and nixed the metal tube portion the PHH connects to and just ran hose from the part of the firewall down to the lower connection. This made the install a breeeeeeze. Removal was still a PITA though. Then i just covered the hose with some black plastic loom to protect and make it look factory. The pieces you posted are those connections at the firewall. Check to see that your metal tubes that pass over the exhaust are still in good shape. If they look damaged or rusty, you may be in for far more work. My PO had blocked off the connection to the rear heater.
Just my opinion, but i love having a factory (read: installed properly) sunroof. It makes a SUV feel like much more of an open vehicle while driving. Much less of a cabin feel with it. A new glass should be easy to find at a junk yard, any mechanisms as well.
If you still are very set on removing it, i would do it properly, Pull everything out and weld in a new piece of sheet metal, repaint roof. You can then gain some head room. I don't quite remember, but is the 80s headliner already in two pieces? If not, you could cut it just before it lowers for the sunroof (above the second row of seats) and then fabricate a new one for the front.
I have no idea what you would use to fabricate a new headliner as the material is kind of strange and very lightweight. At my dads shop headliner work is usually just recovering a worn cover to the headliner. Fairly easy work (once you get it out of the vehicle, not so easy sometimes). I don't think i have ever seen them do what you are considering though. Sometimes the entire headliner gets replaced if it is too damaged. They ship in reallllllly large boxes, haha.
I must have missed it somewhere but what are you using to line the body with where the flares were?
What are your plans for the holes as well?
- Thread starter
- #129
Layonnn said:
I tried ordering just the gasket, but it doesn't come seperate from the glass. That's really all it needs, though the leaks were more than likely coming from the drywall toggle anchor secured roof rack.
I say that's all it needs, but the slide assembly is decrepit and should be replaced.
Layonnn said:
I was going to do it über right, and replace the entire roof skin with one without sunroof or rack, but the skin alone is $2,600, not including the freight. Big ass box, so betting a fortune more. Add body and paint on top of.
All was for eliminating a current problem (sun roof). The headroom gained or even an overhead console was an afterthought, not a goal.
Layonnn said:
It's one. It would make sense to do a two piece if going to this trouble.
I need to reconsider the deletion. Going to price the components for sunroof next week, and determine if it's worth it.
Layonnn said:
I don't either. I spoke with a customer who does high end Ford restorations, and he said there's several shops in town capable, but be very, very prepared to pay.
An FJC local is a fiberglass artist in OKC, and had talked to him about doing an overhead in the FJC. Had considered revisiting, or getting one from an F150 since readily available.
Again, preliminary conversation, and hoping through the course the realization that this is a well appointed trail rig becomes more clear to me. It's not a garage queen, but not a beater, and it's difficult to determine the fine line between.
Layonnn said:
Some kind of liner. Was going to take this approach (need to find members name for proper credit. Apologies to whomever's pics I've stolen)
with the brown that matches interior ( whole interior will be same color) and repaint the upper lines and roof. Only issue is painting handles to match.
What are your thought on two toning with white liner on top? Personally, I don't like the liner, but it's the lesser of all evils considering its a $4k paint job, if prepped and ready, me supplying all seals, gaskets, and body hole filling.
Still planning the holes. There's 162 and welding seems to be absurd. Some have used bondo, aluminum tape, or epoxy. I really want to weld them, but wondering how much it really matters if applying liner.
Cutting fenders, too. I see a way to do with a return, allowing to bolt back to the inner. Hopefully that works out.
The rear is a different story. I'm not sure, but it looks like a double rolled seam at the bottom lip, so assuming its structural, to some degree. Can gain 2.5" on the front, but only 3/4" on the rear. Unsure if the rear is worth it.
- Thread starter
- #130
These Lexus-ish enough?
Method BLs that are actually a buddy's I'm storing while his FJC is undergoing a diesel transplant. Opened up while moving this morning, and they sort of look like the OEM Lexus wheels. Weigh in at 33lbs, 4lbs less than the Trail Readys on the FJC.
A consideration.
Did get a rear bumper on. About the only thing that's been added.
Now, the complex algorithms begin regarding coating.
Coat with same liner as body, PC black, spray black, if rear is lined same as body, should sliders and front correspond?
Method BLs that are actually a buddy's I'm storing while his FJC is undergoing a diesel transplant. Opened up while moving this morning, and they sort of look like the OEM Lexus wheels. Weigh in at 33lbs, 4lbs less than the Trail Readys on the FJC.
A consideration.
Did get a rear bumper on. About the only thing that's been added.
Now, the complex algorithms begin regarding coating.
Coat with same liner as body, PC black, spray black, if rear is lined same as body, should sliders and front correspond?
Your rig looks good with that new bumper on there!!! I'll be curious to see which way you go...paint, powdercoat or spray on bed liner material?
- Thread starter
- #134
Blink said:
It'd have been a real good idea two nights ago, for sure.
I've still some determining to do on wether to do swing outs, or not, and welding to do regardless, so will be "cleaning" once done and before coating.
Going to try to pull this weekend and shoot with Rustoleum for the time being, though.
No, when I sent mine in I just had them redo all the seals.
Delancy said:
Yea I hear ya! Hahaha.......I'm pretty sure we are going to build a front bumper for mine....but there is a few special projects that's inline ahead of that.....should be interesting......
- Thread starter
- #140
fjrohrs said:
Thanks. Haven't figured out how to link threads on app, yet, but picked up for tim.korn and stainless doc.
Has dual swing out capability, and built to handle a load.
Their design wraps the cross member, so no cutting. I may modify slightly, and cut the cross member, but unsure yet.
