Builds ?????????80 tm Build Input Requested (27 Viewers)

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Throw this out, for input, since the subject has been broached and my admission of failure established on the resis.

In attempt to better secure beyond that afforded by zip ties, and so that I could drive to establish need for valving changes, this is what's cobbled up after considerable time wrangling.

DS rear location seems protected

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And had considered an eyelet to secure hose, keeping it out if the coils, when doing bump drops.

PS rear is much better protected, it appears

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My concern being the close proximity to exhaust. After driving for an hour, though, the sticker (which I'll be removing. Sorry, Glenn, but you know the policy) is still intact, the can didn't feel any warmer than DS, and the exhaust pipe doesn't really radiate a tremendous amount of heat.....until you touch it.

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So, I'm considering the following options:

1. If the hoses are remade to longer length.

From each side, run hose to the fuel fill, the PS over the exhaust with shield, to the rear cross, probably with a simple bolt on resi bracket, same as welded on the PS pics above, using these OE holes. Only fitting change would be a 90 degree on the resi entry.

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2. If hoses remain, as is, and an effort to not make it appear that it's cobbled up chit, mount another can mount, same as PS, above the LSPV , with stand off spacers behind welded to bracket. (Pretty much a hollow tube a longer bolt can pass through) so it'd orient aft, but opposite the cross of the PS.



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3. Fab a mount utilizing the OE sway bar bracket, since OE bar is being 86d anyway. Could run interior the rail, and still be relatively protected, I think.

Seeking reasonable opinions. Going to log a few more days with all, as is, to ensure no valving changes are in order, too, but spoke to Glenn yesterday, admitting my errors and also discussing what extreme I'd found the compression setting to feel most comfortable, this far, and he's not charging me anything but hose cost to swap hoses out, going as far to deduct what I'd be returning from the total.

Once again, Radflo's for the win.

Feel it my responsibility to thoroughly describe this order as well the history shared with Radflo, and the reason why I suggest over any other company.

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Feel it my responsibility to thoroughly describe this order as well the history shared with Radflo, and the reason why I suggest over any other company.

Pretty much the reason I've looked in the Radflo direction. Bummer to hear that you've hit a snag, but looking forward to ordering the "Delancy" setup for the 80. :biggrin:
 
Bummer to hear that you've hit a snag.

If it were easy.....haha.

When I'd spoke to Glenn, I hadn't put many miles on and was running at the firmest compression adjustment and we discussed a re-valving, when returning to extend hoses.

Since then, I've changed my mind on re-valving.

Feels perfect and have played with the adjustments considerably. It's hard to say how much change, in reality, the adjuster makes, but butt dyno feels dramatic.

Have a plan on the rears, I'm going to try to get input on, once again, which may negate sending anywhere.

The rear sway bar bracket appears relatively protected and this sway will be removed for an aft mounted in the coming weeks (the new bar the reason I can't mount above bump on the outer frame rail), so considering this option:

Mount resi's here

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Using the nutserts from the sway bar bracket, BUT encasing them in left over 2.0"x1/8" wall bump cans, for added protection.

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Will clean up the bump cans, so it doesn't appear an afterthought, but short of trapped heat, which fade may not ever be a concern on the 80 anyway, I can't see a drawback.

Thoughts?

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At first glance, looks like a great place to mount them. Adding that extra protection, I can't see it being a bad idea at all, though other more qualified opinions may weigh in.
 
Reason I didn't do piggies is they spin and can pose issues with contacting links, lines, or sway bar arms, or has on other build.

Should've made these hoses 18-24" longer.
 
My concern being the close proximity to exhaust. After driving for an hour, though, the sticker (which I'll be removing. Sorry, Glenn, but you know the policy) is still intact, the can didn't feel any warmer than DS, and the exhaust pipe doesn't really radiate a tremendous amount of heat.....until you touch it.

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Delancy,

Of course, you know that when that exhaust burns you from direct contact the heat transfer is conduction, not radiative heat tranfer.

;) Sorry, I could not help it.

Cheers, J
 

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