Builds ?????????80 tm Build Input Requested

[Delancy]

In the same boat, you replacing the pump?

By pump, assuming you're talking for washer fluid issue, and no, just the diverter valve that directs flow from front to rear. Pump seems to work fine, but only on rear, now.

Mine didn't work when I got it, so put CLR in it for a day, then pumped it through the front and rear lines. Everything worked fine for a year ( almost to the date ) but now, regardless of front or rear selection, only pumps out the rear. Couple of times before, it dumped out somewhere in the engine bay by firewall, so knew it was diverter related.

Just talked to Dan and added it to my order for $46, along with these difficult to get locally gaskets that total $4.

More $$$$ than a well developed crack habit. Hahaha.

Edited: Hahahaha. Yes, I'm a little wordy, as you've called me out on.

 

[Delancy]

For the record, or debate if the data seems incorrect.

Rear

At the absolute maximum extension that the OE rear links with sway bar attached are capable of, the measurement I get from center of eye to the mounting surface is 29 1/8" (740mm) on the shortest side.

The sway bar contacts housing, at this point.

From the axle to the bumps, there's 16 1/2" available, disregarding tire contact.

Initial shock travel specifications are 740mm extended, 450mm compressed.

Front

At the absolute maximum extension of the front SE arms with no sway bar, the measurement I get is 30 1/4" (768mm) on the shortest side.

From the axle to the bumps there's 17 1/4" available, disregarding tire contact.

Waiting on shock travel criteria, but have a feeling that it won't be possible to use the fully extended 30 1/4" without negatively impacting up.

 

[Delancy]

Initial Determination based on above

Rear
740mm (29.25") extended 450mm (17.75") compressed
290mm (11.42") shock travel
616mm (24.25") Ride Height


Front
768mm (30.23") extended
455mm (17.90") compressed
313mm (12.33") shock travel
635mm (25") ride height

For comparison, current OME Ls

Rear
678mm (26.49") extended
387mm (15.23") compressed
286mm(11.26") shock travel

Front
667mm (26.25") extended
381mm (15") compressed
285mm (11.25") shock travel

 

[Delancy]

Swapped Booster



Will have another Classifieds Ad to sell the previous, because there's no change in brakes after swap.

Imagine my surprise when the first intersection I hit, the RPMs spiked to 1500. Forgot to nest the throttle cable back in the hangers, appears.

Replaced O rings on bypass tube.



FYI. The sell the same thing at Adam & Eve for cheaper.

Installed LandTank's rear links with new OE bolts, of course.



Went ahead and installed the ARPs on the rear, in advance of swapping the machined shaft from Rick, that should be out of the freezer Monday.

 

[Delancy]

She's a squirter.....



So much so now, going to have to adjust the hood and nozzles, otherwise I'll be spraying three cars behind.

Part #85321-60050. Three minute swap.

Thanks, CDan for the both correct gaskets. I won't stray elsewhere from here on out.

 

[OGBeno]

Thanks, CDan for the both correct gaskets. I won't stray elsewhere from here on out.

 

[Delancy]

Any clues why the brake pedal feel has deteriorated into spongeville?

I'd bet I've bled 10-12 quarts through system in the last year, following FSM procedure, but if any improvement it may have only been perceived.

New calipers, rotors, pads, booster, brake lines and LSPV, still sponge.

What have I overlooked?

 

[LT]

Did you bleed the master cylinder while on the bench? Or you can bleed it while on the truck, you'll have to crack the brake fittings at the master cylinder while someone operates the brake pedal.

 

[scottryana]

Did you go all OEM with rotors and pads? Not because I have input to fix your proem but I am going to do mine and your upgraditise usually matches my upgraditise. Lol

 

[Delancy]

Bench bled the master when installing calipers, LSPV, and brake lines last year. Should've pulled it off when swapping booster, but figured the booster was the problem.

Going to re-bleed it installed, though, and bleed the rest of the system again, guess after smashing the pedal to the floor on some gravel roads ( read that bubbles can trap and activating ABS can release? ).

I'd go for fluid now, but don't have a pedal pusher available.

 

[Delancy]

Did you go all OEM with rotors and pads? Not because I have input to fix your proem but I am going to do mine and your upgraditise usually matches my upgraditise. Lol

Yes. All OE.

Brakes

Slowly adding part numbers to the ever growing list, for easy reference, but haven't those yet.

 

[NGUDE]

great thread. subscribed because i've already replaced the booster and the MC... still spongy brakes.

 

[Delancy]

subscribed because i've already replaced the booster and the MC... still spongy

You'll be in for much more than that.

Going to re bleed, and report back the finding.

 

[DSRTRDR]

Thanks, CDan for the both correct gaskets. I won't stray elsewhere from here on out.

how could you ever

 

[DSRTRDR]

Any clues why the brake pedal feel has deteriorated into spongeville?

I'd bet I've bled 10-12 quarts through system in the last year, following FSM procedure, but if any improvement it may have only been perceived.

New calipers, rotors, pads, booster, brake lines and LSPV, still sponge.

What have I overlooked?

LSPV or whatever that thing is called - and, yes, there's air in your lines

did you do the "bedding in" of the new brakes ? I first thought it was sorta balloney myself, but it worked really well - and CDan advised, too

still confused, though: you have no brake pedal pusher help ? - - it only really works as a two-person job

 

[Delancy]

how could you ever

Impatience and a perceived tight timeline.

They did call to say that the second Booster gasket showed, still not getting it.

LSPV or whatever that thing is called - and, yes, there's air in your lines

LSPV is new, adjusted down on the frame side, too.

What's odd is, after being parked for 5-6 days when my wife and I were in St. Thomas, they deteriorated dramatically. Probably punishment for parking her. Prior to that, they weren't great, but assumed as good as it got.

did you do the "bedding in" of the new brakes ? I first thought it was sorta balloney myself, but it worked really well - and CDan advised, too

Didn't bed them. First I've heard of. Felt that I followed the FSM accurately, but maybe I missed something.

Will "bedding" now require new pads?

still confused, though: you have no brake pedal pusher help ? - - it only really works as a two-person job

Used a "catch can", for lack of a better term, and local claimed they're ineffective, but seemed to work previously.

As I've gone through bleeding several times, I've not noticed air bubbles in the collection can, so it should only draw in fluid, I'd assume.

Getting help for this round, have to for MC bleed.

 

[Delancy]

Looking for someone proficient in CAD to aid in designing rear frame rail inserts, preferably someone familiar with the 80 series.

Have parts to offer in trade, or not above paying for the service.

 

[Dumpinthegutter]

Limited knowledge of the 80, but as an architect I use cad everyday. What you want done.

 

[Delancy]

I want to detail out a frame rail insert that'll go inside the rear frame rails that'll have the rear body mount added to, recovery points, possibly crossmember, and achieve the taper on the lower frame rail I'm after.

Got the idea of the insert from another build here, where they used to section 80 frame rails together.

Can't cut as much meat off the frame rail as I wanted to, and there no way to box it back, since cant get inside the rail to weld.

My thought is to cut the frame rail forward a ways, slide this piece in a significant distance, then weld it to the sides and bottom of the rail I have access to. The inserted portion being tight and, In my under educated thinking, adding strength.

Pretty much, I want to detail a rear subframe that'll capture and support the rear body mounts, tapered to minimize dragging the ass around, with new cross member attaching, all to slide into the cut rails and weld around the outer portion I can get to, with the alternate function of bolting the wings into, but not worried about the wings at this point.

Idea came from X2

Thanks...Made some progress today. I had to have some 12" pieces of rectangular tubing made to sleeve the inside of the cut frame. Thanks to Slee's machine shop, the frame came back together perfectly and even square. Imagine that.

Welded seamless around, then spot welded through the frame. If it'll hold this together, it should be good for a partial rear subframe.

I don't have the benefit of being down the road from Slee, but do have multiple locations that can fab.....if I have material specifications and a detail. I no longer employ detailers and never learned CAD, and my chicken scratch drawings ain't cutting it.

 

[Delancy]

Temporary passenger. (Greenbeast's yellow lab)



How fitting?



Haha.