Builds ?????????80 tm Build Input Requested (39 Viewers)

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Just bring it down to Devin.....after my Runner is done!

White Trash of the Elwood Chapter, TORC4x4.org, Cottonland Cruisers.
 
4 or so hours. Wichita Falls

White Trash of the Elwood Chapter, TORC4x4.org, Cottonland Cruisers.
 
I definitely don't have tube bending skills. The first project I ever bent tube on was the bumper pictured below. Here's what I used: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-hydraulic-pipe-bender-32888.html
With a 20% off coupon your out $80. I had to make some minor modifications to the die I used to help stop it from kinking the tube, but after a few test bends on some scrap pieces I got it dialed in and kink free. I wanted to cut off about 4-6" of the rear quarter panels and just weld in a flat plate but my wife (the 80 is her Daily Driver) said "HEEELLLLL NO!!". I wanted to get the bumper up tight to the same elevation as the frame and give me great rear ground clearance/departure angle, but keeping the wife happy had to trump that plan. I had to make a design that was functional, light, and didn't hack up her car. That was the design she liked and gave me the green light to build.


Wish I had bhick's skills at CAD or tubing..... or he was local.

bhick's Rear Bumper

From this



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To this



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Regardless of design or implementation, which I think are both stellar for intended purpose and executed well.

Beats my twenty five billion word descriptions or Scribble chit. Hahahaha.
 
Chris:


Black or white.

Those should be the only color choices you should be considering for that rig.

By the way, did you get my txt message??

(Unless you gave me the wrong PN)

:flipoff2:
 
Chris:

Black or white.

Those should be the only color choices you should be considering for that rig.

By the way, did you get my txt message??

(Unless you gave me the wrong PN)

:flipoff2:

White's the direction I'm headed.

I'm simple and need to remember that. Hahaha.

No on text. Sending number again, via PM.
 
I suck at Scribble Light, even with stylus.

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If tapering the rails to ~2 1/2", could leave the rails long enough to nestle a 2" pipe into, then wrap from wheel well edge to wheel well edge and put an MT-ish slider kick out at the quarters.

Not sure how that'd look, nor if a tight radius could be made around the corner of the quarter without the elastic steel MT uses, but it might simplify things.....I think.
 
I think I am understanding what your wanting. Do you want to rear quarter panel protection to be part of the rear crossbar/new bumper or do you want these to be seperate and bolt on? I could probably spend some time this weekend sketching something out in CAD. Just need a couple more details.
 
I think I am understanding what your wanting. Do you want to rear quarter panel protection to be part of the rear crossbar/new bumper or do you want these to be seperate and bolt on? I could probably spend some time this weekend sketching something out in CAD. Just need a couple more details.

Separate quarter protection, be it bolted or welded.

Since considering tapering the rear frame rail, it may be easier to weld a plate to the end if the tube, then weld plate to frame. Honestly, I don't know, and open to suggestions.

Won't have the rear rail to attach to like the MTs,



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but will have plenty of room, in the absence of the lower quarter, to oversize the tube.

Something else considered would be tube running from PS to DS that rolls up for quarter protection, at both attachment points, since it may increase wing strength and could alt as additional cross support. Without the quarter panel to hinder, could bore holes through frame and slide pre-bent in, then weld in place.

Even thought about the option to skin the tubes where the lower quarter will be removed, in the event it looks like crap.

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If tapering the rails to ~2 1/2", could leave the rails long enough to nestle a 2" pipe into, then wrap from wheel well edge to wheel well edge and put an MT-ish slider kick out at the quarters.

Not sure how that'd look, nor if a tight radius could be made around the corner of the quarter without the elastic steel MT uses, but it might simplify things.....I think.

Tube is tube it all bends the same, it's the material properties that differentiate between ERW, HERW, DOM, DOM SRA etc. The radius we use is either 5.5 or 6.5R which is standard for a rotary draw bender.
 
Tube is tube. It all tastes the same..

You'd know.

Unintended birthday gift being an two emails from Ih8mud with birthday wishes, one of which a user name I don't recall ever establishing here.

Considering a ban hammer may fall at any moment ( I did edit "steak" out of the quoted text, so trying) I should've kept quiet, but curiosity was piqued and not sure how else to determine when established but to post and view profile from iPhone.

This account can delete after wreaking havoc in OT, but for the record, accidental. Elsewhere they'll ban for two, if malicious, and by no means was the duplicate intentional.
 
Ordered the brake booster (44610-60792) grommet (90480-24015) and valve (44730-28010) to fix the sponginess.

This is, officially, now getting expensive.

Talked to a local wheeler, who has a buddy that does tube work on the side.

Limitation is 1.75", but suggested 1.5" .120 for the wings. Was hoping for 2" to wrap the rear, but can't find a small shop that can handle.

After looking at further, wish I had the skills to use an MT slider body for rear roll pan-ish bumper, rolled/ mitered at the corners to fit tight to the bottom of where I'm cutting the quarter panel.

Think it's look decent, at least consistent, and even weld a kick out to top of body, like sliders, for quarter protection.

Too bad MTs to big for custom work.

I'd be proud to represent with the front AND rear bumper and sliders.
 

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