Builds ?????????80 tm Build Input Requested

[Fireman]

The whole point of having a beautiful truck on the trail is the simple fact that you have a beautiful truck on the trail. Paint it back as close to factory color as you can and wheel it, dent it and then touch it up. I wheel with a lady who WHEELS her 80 and her husband just fixes the dents and paints it after she dents it. You armored it up for a reason.

White Trash of the Elwood Chapter, TORC4x4.org, Cottonland Cruisers.

 

[LT]

IE don't let Fireman spot you if you don't want your truck resembling a raisin.

 

[Delancy]

The whole point of having a beautiful truck on the trail is the simple fact that you have a beautiful truck on the trail.

Trying to pick the right lipstick for the pig and mostly an on road concern.

Hate to look like a beater, even though it will be beaten, but without something to cover my bodywork, she doesn't look like much.

Thinking keep it simple with white, since the plastics in the area of concern, were pinkish.

IE don't let Fireman spot you if you don't want you truck resembling a raisin.

Haha. Not his fault, but following did bend the bumper and rear quarter.

Direct.

If shortening the rear rails to door, like we'd discussed, where would I connect back to frame with something similar to y'alls?





Does the body flex enough that running tube through the power quarter would be a constant issue?

Worth cutting the lower quarter off, to seal, effort to avoid running the tube below?

 

[Fireman]

IE don't let Fireman spot you if you don't want you truck resembling a raisin.

Hey!

 

[G-Cat]

View attachment 750870

View attachment 750889

If we are voting, I like the top color combo...but I'd keep it white.

 

[Delancy]

^^. Think white's the general consensus, all things considered, just need to hit up magnetman to order.

If, for whatever reason, the white lower contrasts to the OE paint, will line the whole thing.

 

[LT]

Haha. Not his fault, but following did bend the bumper and rear quarter.

Direct.

If shortening the rear rails to door, like we'd discussed, where would I connect back to frame with something similar to y'alls?

Does the body flex enough that running tube through the power quarter would be a constant issue?

Worth cutting the lower quarter off, to seal, effort to avoid running the tube below?

The reference to Fireman was in general, you got off easy compared to his other victims.

The 80 bodies don't flex that much but the tube will flex when you put enough weight on it so you will want to place the tubing to have at least a 1/2" gap from the body.

You're entering the realm of custom fab, so by shortening the rear frame to the door you'll be coming up with your own custom wings. The ones pictured were a bolt on version. You'll still be running a tube below to protect your lower quarter panels shaved or not.

 

[Delancy]

Now that the liner is settled, back to beating the dead horse on rear cross cut/bumper/wings.

If I cut here



And fab some sort of cross member/roll pan to align with the curvature of the rear door, gain a few inches that was impacting departure angle, but loosing attachment points for wings.

Also, taper the bottom of the frame rails to be more in line with the lower quarter like this, an effort to minimize dragging the frame,



Would plate ends and bottom of rails, fab new body mounts, or reinforce what's left after tapered cut, but doesn't leave room to attach quarter protection without negating the benefits, actual or perceived, off cutting and tapering. (yeah, that's Denglish )

Still contemplating the aft frame mounted sway bar and wondering if I could bore 1 1/4" holes through the frame rails where the sway bar locates (~22" from centerline of axle), run sch 40 ( think 3/16" wall, but unconfirmed) through rails and weld (possibly plate the attachment point on the inner rail) that'd alt as as additional rear cross member.

That's semi-sorta irrelevant to the pertinent question of wing support, but throwing it out now, since suited up for flaming.

Not knowing how much the body flexes, asking for input regarding boring holes through the lower quarters and running wing supports back to frame, similar to



Addressing water tightness on interior of panel with sealant, or welding sheet metal in the diameter if the hole, either way.

Could run tube back to frame and weld direct, and know that when it gets bent, it'll be a major PITA to fix.

Comments or suggestion?

Edited: and yes, my twelve year old did show me how to use Scribble Lite, finally.

 

[Delancy]

The ones pictured were a bolt on version.

Sell me a pair and we can stop the senseless occupation of server space that's gonna result if my brain continues to think about.

I posted before your reply, by the way.

 

[scottryana]

Cut the rear quarter flat high up, almost even with the bottom of the tailgate, then weld in a piece of flat sheetmetal and seem seal it.

Now you have straight access back to the frame and can build very strong sliders that go back and attach to the frame. If you are making this soley an offroad truck, go ahead and angle cut the rear frame to gain a little clearance you can make that area much stronger with the new rear boxed crossmember/bumper and an "X" crossmember welded in where the stock spare used to be.

 

[LT]

Do this modification - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/204884-some-redneck-bodywork-finished.html

Weld tube to frame as desired. Problem solved.

 

[Fireman]

Is there a target on my back? In all fairness, LT spotted folks into more $$$ damage than I did at the Roundup!

 

[LT]

Is there a target on my back? In all fairness, LT spotted folks into more $$$ damage than I did at the Roundup!

I'm pretty sure I was in Nick's truck both times the tie rod ends went and they didn't result in any form of body damage

 

[Fireman]

blah blah blah!

 

[Delancy]

You're entering the realm of custom fab

Frightening, all things considered.

Can cut, chop, bend, manipulate......but can't roll tube, anyway.

Cut the rear quarter flat high up, almost even with the bottom of the tailgate, then weld in a piece of flat sheetmetal and seem seal it.

So glad I spent the time and effort to pull interior once and completely line the inner sheet with deadener.

This sounds the best way to go, regardless.

If you are making this soley an offroad truck

What's the issue with doing the rear cuts of it's purpose isn't off road only, out of curiosity?

Do this modification -

Do I need to beat the piss out of them first? Hahaha.

About as good at welding sheet metal as steel.

 

[scottryana]

So LT posted basically what I was describing. I did it on my 55 and it worked very well. The long rear overhang takes a real beating anything you can do to get the sheetmetal high and out of the way goes a long way.

If I was ever going to tow with it I would not feel comfortable angle cutting the rear frame horns. For road going use you also create a submarine effect if any car where to hit you from behind. If some how your rear end, ended up going through their windshield its just another thing to defend.

 

[LT]

Do all the modifications you can do yourself such as cutting the frame and body. After that find someone who can bend tube and have them do the tube work.

 

[Delancy]

So LT posted basically what I was describing. I did it on my 55 and it worked very well. The long rear overhang takes a real beating anything you can do to get the sheetmetal high and out of the way goes a long way.

I understood what you were describing.

Looks like Creeper went high, but looking at it, could follow bottom of door at corner and slope down in similar angle to the bottom, now.

Will consternate over for days, I'm sure. Need to look in inner fender to see what's back there, too.

If I was ever going to tow........

For road going use you also create a submarine effect if any car where to hit you from behind. If some how your rear end, ended up going through their windshield its just another thing to defend.

Not towing with, but not towing it, either.

Try to fab something substantial in a roll pan-ish fashion, but all bets are off in the litigious society we're in.

Do all the modifications you can do yourself such as cutting the frame and body. After that find someone who can bend tube and have them do the tube work.

Cutting frame and welding is easy part...... Cause it's not visible anyway. Haha.

Sheet metal will suck to weld, and have been trying to find someone for tube for couple months.

Going to chop and plate what needs to be, in advance of planned tubing fab, so the commitment is made and can quit thinking about it.

 

[scottryana]

Yeah see I would go even higher than creeper, go like another 1-1.5" and that way there is a natural curve there to hide the cut. Or I would go even with the bottom of the tailgate. I wouldn't worry about sloping it, it is going to be behind some kind of armor extending from the frame it won't be all that visable, but it allows you to also build your "quarter sliders" as high as possible. Going to be very nice for a truck that gets wheeled!

 

[Delancy]

Going to be very nice for a truck that gets wheeled!

It is a Lexus, you know.

Creeper's (can't see the two side by side until I post, to see if any different)

View attachment 751258

Can see the benefit of using the curve to conceal booger welds, but in following bottom lip of gate, since wont be concealed in bumper, thinking along this line.

View attachment 751259

Looks to be integrated structural at the body side mounting point.







Cause for concern or reinforcing?

Wish I had bhick's skills at CAD or tubing..... or he was local.

bhick's Rear Bumper

From this





To this





Regardless of design or implementation, which I think are both stellar for intended purpose and executed well.

Beats my twenty five billion word descriptions or Scribble chit. Hahahaha.