Builds 80 series where to start! Again.... (1 Viewer)

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I am still using the GENI head I bought from Beno, it is brand new and has a lot of port and matching work done some I am kind of committed. For the coils I bought the mounting plate from a guy in Australia but I did the wiring for the plugs, etc. I am likely going to use a Haltech.

Thanks
I am wobbling over using coil on plug, or going to crank trigger and MSD which I am more familiar with. Other reason is they have a great in cab timing adjustment system where you can advance or retard +- 10 degrees which would be very useful for when I need to lower for bad gas in Mexico.
Any thoughts?
 
You can get a price for the coil on plug setup here Spartan Performance if you are on Facebook. He can do the full kit with wiring harness and coils or just the plate and you can source coils and make your own harness.
 
You can get a price for the coil on plug setup here Spartan Performance if you are on Facebook. He can do the full kit with wiring harness and coils or just the plate and you can source coils and make your own harness.
Thanks
 
Well even with the coil on plug you will need to do a crank trigger. It hasn't really been talked about much here, but there are a couple damper companies like ATI and Ross that will put a toothed ring on the damper so you can mount an external sensor. I think I would prefer coil on plug with a good stand alone, and if you really wanted to have a second map for bad fuel it would be as easy as flipping a switch.

Thanks
I am wobbling over using coil on plug, or going to crank trigger and MSD which I am more familiar with. Other reason is they have a great in cab timing adjustment system where you can advance or retard +- 10 degrees which would be very useful for when I need to lower for bad gas in Mexico.
Any thoughts?
 
Have you picked out a throttle body yet? I have a brand new fast 92mm tb that I cant use for my vette that i will let go cheap.
 
I actually had my manifold built for the 102mm Nick Williams drive by wire throttle body. Thanks for the offer though!

nwp-sd102mmel_oh_xl.jpg


Have you picked out a throttle body yet? I have a brand new fast 92mm tb that I cant use for my vette that i will let go cheap.
 
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With aftermarket ECU, it is easier to control idle etc, since you don't have an idle control valve to worry about. Plus with the aftermarket intake there are no mounting provisions for a throttle cable and fabbing one up wouldn't look as clean in my opinion...

Why did you choose drive by wire?
 
Interestingly enough the Jeep Trackhawk has now been doing the rounds with media and a lot more information has come out about it.

The same 707hp engine as the Hellcat with increased oil capacity of 8.3qts
3.70 diff gears
Fulltime four wheel drive with 300m half shafts and cv joint
8HP95 8 speed auto with transbrake
0-60 in 3.5 seconds
Quarter Mile in 11.6 seconds
Rated to tow 7,200lbs
Price with tow package $99,690
Curb weight of 5350lbs

Pretty surprised about the curb weight, but impressive none the less! I still think this project can come in almost 1000lbs lighter, but obviously it will be nowhere near as sorted. Or as near $99,690. Haha!
 
Interestingly enough the Jeep Trackhawk has now been doing the rounds with media and a lot more information has come out about it.

The same 707hp engine as the Hellcat with increased oil capacity of 8.3qts
3.70 diff gears
Fulltime four wheel drive with 300m half shafts and cv joint
8HP95 8 speed auto with transbrake
0-60 in 3.5 seconds
Quarter Mile in 11.6 seconds
Rated to tow 7,200lbs
Price with tow package $99,690
Curb weight of 5350lbs

Pretty surprised about the curb weight, but impressive none the less! I still think this project can come in almost 1000lbs lighter, but obviously it will be nowhere near as sorted. Or as near $99,690. Haha!

Here's to seeing this project through. I think it is a roadmap for other performance Cruiser builds in the U.S.

With so many off the wall performance builds on every type of vehicle in this country, I am truly amazed your 80 build is such a new idea.

Keep it up!
 
Oh it will be seen through, it might just take a lot more time then I expected! Haha. I had about $20k of unexpected expenses come up that were earmarked for this project so that is why the big holdup. But it will still happen.

Here's to seeing this project through. I think it is a roadmap for other performance Cruiser builds in the U.S.

With so many off the wall performance builds on every type of vehicle in this country, I am truly amazed your 80 build is such a new idea.

Keep it up!
 
Depends on the 2JZ studs there is different material, but the most common material should be 90ft/lbs if I remember right. It should be listed in the package. Also make sure you trim the studs so you don't crack your oil pan!
Another head stud question:
ARP has 3 sets for Supra; Regular, Undercut, and high strength. Wouldn't the undercut be best for aluminum heads. What are you using?
I am about to order a set for heads and a set for mains. Was thinking undercut for heads and regular for mains.
 
My rule of thumb is that it always depends on what type of head gasket you use. If you use a fibrous head gasket like the OEM I would use an undercut stud, if you use an MLS gasket I would use a normal stud. Because the fiberous gasket will have a little movement and benefit from the springiness of the undercut. I think since you are not talking about adding forced induction any of the ARP studs would be fine. It is the high cylinder pressures from the extra boost that creates the need for extra clamping force.


Another head stud question:
ARP has 3 sets for Supra; Regular, Undercut, and high strength. Wouldn't the undercut be best for aluminum heads. What are you using?
I am about to order a set for heads and a set for mains. Was thinking undercut for heads and regular for mains.
 
It is like a drug....

Big thanks to Beno for hooking me up with some very nice used intake and exhaust valves so I could install them and get the head combustion chambers and runners CC'd.

For anyone that is curious about the process, I take the stock valves and put a touch of vaseline on the sealing surface and seat them in the head, install a spark plug with a touch of vaseline on the threads and then use a piece of Makrolon with a hole in it sitting over the combustion chamber to measure how much water it will hold. I really needed some bigger syringes but for whatever reason could only find 1 and 3cc around the house. lol.

IMG_2594.JPG
 
This thread will be “Exhibit A” for helping me get out of my speeding ticket. “Your honor, if I had enough power in my 24 year old 1FZ-FE with 360k miles would this lunatic have gone to all of this work to make it go faster?! I think not! The defense rests!”
 
How you sped in a stock 80 I will never know! lol.

This thread will be “Exhibit A” for helping me get out of my speeding ticket. “Your honor, if I had enough power in my 24 year old 1FZ-FE with 360k miles would this lunatic have gone to all of this work to make it go faster?! I think not! The defense rests!”
 
How you sped in a stock 80 I will never know! lol.


Part of the the reason the head gasket will never go bad, they have cylinder pressure of a hamster fart!
 

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