Careful I got a speeding ticket in a 20r mini truck once. 50 in a 35 I believe, and yes, it was downhill 
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those valves look pretty deep in seats, was that planned?The combustion chamber is 83cc's and the stock exhaust runners are just under 99cc's. I am going to wait until I am back at the hospital and grab some 10cc, 20cc and 60cc syringes to do the stock intake runner and the ported intake and exhaust runners.
Since I have had a difficult time getting access to a flow bench to test my head, I will be going off of runner volume making sure they are equal or very close at least initially.
Will you be using those valves to complete?
I noticed you have left squish pads in, is that the plan, or will it depend on final CR?
Finished porting?
those valves look pretty deep in seats, was that planned?
I have my volumes for my stock runners, will be interesting to see if yours are the same.
It makes perfect sense to me.These were simply used OEM valves that Beno sent me so that I could test flow pre and post porting and polishing as well as changing valves sizes. Neither the valves or the seats have been changed from stock.
I know it seems kind of strange but I have ported and polished 5 of the 6 cylinders and left one stock so I can test it.
If I can find some time to get the head over to the shop I found to do flow testing (approximately 3 hours away)
The plan is to:
Test the flow in the unported cylinder (6) with stock valve size
Cut in the 3+mm intake valves and 1+mm exhaust valves and test cylinders (1-5)
Come home port (6) and then take it back and cut in the bigger valves for (6)
Yeah it doesn't make any sense but I am trying to get the community pre/post numbers for OEM flow and ported and polished flow with larger valves.
It makes perfect sense to me.
I wish we had some useable ports we could use for computerized porting, you’ve seen my thread, as hand porting is almost impossible to have equal flow. If you get the right numbers maybe we could use.
How did you decide on+3mm valves? Will you put in + 3mm seats also. I was going to go +2mm seats and valves, just because I thought that would be about the right match
Yep I will have the seats cut for a 3 angle or radius depending on what the machine shop uses but they will match the valves.
I agree computerized would be awesome I just don't see it happening. Realistically someone needs to take a head and have it sliced apart every few cm so that we could actually see what clearances there are then make the port changes clamp it back together and digitize it and then without a bunch of back to back testing we would never really know what is best. Companies that do this and sell thousands of heads don't even get it right on the first go, for us to lay out the investment would be pretty crazy. lol..
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I did a +3mm on the intake side and a +1mm on the exhaust side. But I did that because I was adding a turbo. Positive boost pressure is basically the amount of air you can't get into your engine, so by opening up the intake ports, having larger intake valves, etc you reduce the restriction and ideally can make the same amount of power with less psi. This isn't how you would approach it on a NA build because you have to be more concerned with intake air speed, but with a turbo if you have a pressurized air tract with 30psi behind it, it will push the air plenty fast. lol.
If we found a head that flowed for our “average” user/improvement, then it is a matter of digitizing which is done with lasers and requires no head cutting.Yep I will have the seats cut for a 3 angle or radius depending on what the machine shop uses but they will match the valves.
I agree computerized would be awesome I just don't see it happening. Realistically someone needs to take a head and have it sliced apart every few cm so that we could actually see what clearances there are then make the port changes clamp it back together and digitize it and then without a bunch of back to back testing we would never really know what is best. Companies that do this and sell thousands of heads don't even get it right on the first go, for us to lay out the investment would be pretty crazy. lol..
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I did a +3mm on the intake side and a +1mm on the exhaust side. But I did that because I was adding a turbo. Positive boost pressure is basically the amount of air you can't get into your engine, so by opening up the intake ports, having larger intake valves, etc you reduce the restriction and ideally can make the same amount of power with less psi. This isn't how you would approach it on a NA build because you have to be more concerned with intake air speed, but with a turbo if you have a pressurized air tract with 30psi behind it, it will push the air plenty fast. lol.
If we found a head that flowed for our “average” user/improvement, then it is a matter of digitizing which is done with lasers and requires no head cutting.
It would cost around $3,000 to digitize, and create a cnc program. Let’s looks at your final flow figures first.
I never noticed 5, as I haven’t started head yet. Off to Baja, will check when I get back.
Don’t recall seeing that, will check when back. I was more curious about the extra boss and cam lobe that I think was for a pushrod fuel pump on a different model. It would make a good cam sensor if needed. Got my Crower cams now but haven’t checked to see if they have the extra lobe
that thing is insane. why do we need 6 cylinders