Builds 80 series where to start! Again.... (2 Viewers)

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No, but kind of like the tailgate storage cut out, the vents have their own structure. I could not cut the hood where I cut it without adding a new structure back in. If you cut the hood in an area without the bracing you would be fine, I think even if you did cut the bracing you could bridge the bracing with a steel rod (make it round) like the shop did before they put the vent structure in.

Hey Ryan, did they add any reinforcement around the edges of the hood vents where the structural bits were cut out? I've been wondering how my hood is going to hold up after I cut a big hole in it.
 
I might take you up on this at some point! It will be a while though. The way I did my bumper I have 3 sections I can duct for coolers. I was thinking the big section for intercooler, and the 2 side sections for trans cooler and oil cooler but I might just blow off the oil cooler and duct the intake from the bumper area... seems like a lot more work but wouldn't look as unsymmetrical as a turn signal missing.

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I can probably help out with the blinker vent if needed. It would be fabbed aluminum though instead of carbon. but at .063 I think it would stay pretty light.
 
Oh I think I forgot to add that I finished porting the 5/6 of the exhaust ports just so that I will have a before and after. I could do a little more polishing but this was polished to 320grit.

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Holy Schmitdky that is perrrdddyy! Cant wait to see your test results. I used to have a vacuum table setup when I used to do two stroke porting. I thought about trying to recreate it for my porting but got lazy. I didnt polish mine that nicely though. Keep it up Ryan. Im glad you are not as lazy as I am. Your threads keep me coming back.
 
It is a pretty bad picture, they actually shine pretty nicely. I might grab a 480 wheel just to really make them bling. On the very back wall under the valve seat you can see some bad casting flash (it is very obvious in the unworked port) but I am pretty sure that will be cut out when we sink the larger valves. I have about 25 hours in to porting and polishing the exhaust and just smoothing the intake. If I can see a 10% flow increase it will be worth it. 15% and I will be ecstatic. That includes the +3mm intake valves and +1mm exhaust valves.

Holy Schmitdky that is perrrdddyy! Cant wait to see your test results. I used to have a vacuum table setup when I used to do two stroke porting. I thought about trying to recreate it for my porting but got lazy. I didnt polish mine that nicely though. Keep it up Ryan. Im glad you are not as lazy as I am. Your threads keep me coming back.
 
Run one of those Mothers polishing balls through there when you're done.

How about taking it for vibratory polishing?
 
I cant wait. Do you have an estimated time for testing? Are you going to do valves and bowl work before you test?
 
Vibratory polishing the entire head? I would basically have to throw it into a concrete mixer lol. I think that might throw some of the other dimensions off... haha Actually once I started I found lots of places where there was casting flash, and really bad machining so I was glad to spend the time cleaning it up.

Run one of those Mothers polishing balls through there when you're done.

How about taking it for vibratory polishing?
 
Nope no estimated timeline. I am a broke college student for a while, and I am at the point I would need to pay for machining and testing so it will be a while.

I cant wait. Do you have an estimated time for testing? Are you going to do valves and bowl work before you test?
 
The only trouble with the vibratory polishing is the chance it will f-up the chamfers for the valves and a few other places. I'm sure there are ways to prevent issues. Some of those machines are pretty big!
 
Oh hmm yeah I guess I don't know enough about it. The valves seats I am not worried about since they will all have to be recut anyways since I am going to a bigger valve. The only experience I have is with the ones we use to clean our shot rifle brass. I would have thought it would round the machined edges at the mating surfaces, etc. it would be a cool idea to get the casting flash etc out of the oil and coolant passages though. I know some guys will do a rough port and then bolt up their intake manifold, head and exhaust manifold with all the gaskets and use that abrasive putty extrude honing to make sure everything flows. Putty goes in the intake and cleans up everything all they way through to the exhaust.

The only trouble with the vibratory polishing is the chance it will f-up the chamfers for the valves and a few other places. I'm sure there are ways to prevent issues. Some of those machines are pretty big!
 
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Back glass is in (sure wish I could have found solid glass with no heating element. Oh well), windshield is in, the solid rear cargo windows will be going in tomorrow because @beno made a special stop and hand delivered them to my house! That kind of service is unheard of! If you have a Land Cruiser and you aren't ordering from Beno and you are internet shopping to save $3-4 on parts you are doing yourself a disservice.

Rear bumper is on. Finally starting to see the whole picture of blacking everything out. I will probably pick up the truck on Thursday and see if I can find a place to do tint and call it done. lol.

Funny thing, even the paint guy was giving me s*** about the old faded lock mechanism. When I walked in today, he was like, "are you sure this is how you want it? I could take it off tape it up and spray it black." Oh well hind sight. I am so over budget, I am not going to pay 2 hours for that stupid lock. lol. I think it and the Lexus emblems will be bronze like the wheels.

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Tint the glass before installing it
 
I thought about it, but I don't have any film, and I already dropped the glass at the shop. Plus, I will just do a $299 SUV tint special for Pinnacle tint, the shop has a good reputation and with no interior in the truck it should be a pretty easy job for them to do well.

Tint the glass before installing it
 
All the glass is in. The installer was cool, came to the shop, listened to the need to glue the windshield in, he also glued the hatch glass in. The new door seals seal the doors up tight! I do have the rear door glass tint problem that others have faced..... Clear single piece cargo glass, but factory tinted brown rear door glass. I am not sure if I will try and bother with matching the factory tint or try and find someone with the early 91-92 clear door glass that is willing to ship. Will pick it up Friday!

Oh and astute viewers will notice that I did not install the aerocatch latches. Well I went to the shop earlier in the week and put painter's tape on the fenders where the core support is, and noticed that falls right where the curve of the hood is. No chance you can mount an aerocatch there without it looking like total butchery. I will have to fashion some bracket off the core support further back if I want to use them.

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Since you're installing solid cargo glass and you were asking me about tint. Are you going to source early 91-92 rear door glass so your tint will match? The guy I bought glass from sent me 2 sets or drivers side by mistake so you only need passenger side.. I will gladly donate to the cause
 
Wow Lou, that is an incredible offer! I will definitely take you up on it. I was just reading up on how to strip the hear hatch tint and what rear windows I needed. If you have the driver's side that would be great! I will PM you my address and we can figure out how I can pay you shipping costs, etc! Thanks!!


he guy I bought glass from sent me 2 sets of drivers side by mistake which I had tinted... so you only need passenger side. I will gladly donate to the cause
Since you're installing solid cargo glass and you were asking me about tint. Are you going to source early 91-92 rear door glass so your tint will match? The guy I bought glass from sent me 2 sets or drivers side by mistake so you only need passenger side.. I will gladly donate to the cause
 
Yeah think this will work.

Sanded the gold emblems, alcohol prepped
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Three coats self etching primer
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3 light coats 1 medium coat bronze wheel color
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