Builds 80 series where to start! Again.... (3 Viewers)

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Oh for this build it is definitely Cometic. I was just trying to decide if I could use the MLX gasket that has built in fire rings, instead of the plain MLS gasket, but I don't think I feel comfortable with that 0.039-0.040" clearance especially if there needs to be any shaving on the block or head. I may call Cometic when I get closer and see if they will do a MLX in a size to get me closer to 0.050" after any decking on the block, if not I will just go with the MLS.

Any conclusions regarding quality of Cometic MLS vs OEM?
 
Holy crap this is insane, this as a 1/2 mile race..... 180mph in 1/2 mile is nuts. The fact the first race he was gapping a Porsche 918 is wild. God damn I wish we had a transmission option for the 1FZ.

 
He would of beat the lambo if he had a turbo 1FZFE .
 
Haha, I am not so sure about that. 209 in a half mile is pretty amazing. I bet that Lambo is close to 1800hp. Hell even the 2200hp GT-R's were running 224-225mph. You just can't beat 6.2L of displacement and 103mm turbo or twin turbos and a 5.2L V10! Besides I think it would be too damn scary in an 80 to go over 140-150. haha.

He would of beat the lambo if he had a turbo 1FZFE .
 
On the way to meeting at least one of the goals, that is a weight of 4500lbs.... And this is just stage 1 of the LX weight loss program. The easy to unbolt stuff, and wheel change. I have at least another 150-200lbs that can come out. I will add some weight back but I think I will end up between 4500-4700lbs when it's all said and done. Need to start working on weight distribution now since I lost that perfect 50/50. Pretty crazy considering the Hellcat is a list weight of 4575lbs.

Things to drop still:
- Heavy stock exhaust
- All the little bits of stock interior that not needed, handles, tie downs, subwoofer, extra speakers, stock amp, etc
- rear sliding windows replaced with plain glass
- stock front seats
- sunroof
- stock steering wheel
- airbags......
- ABS, LSPV, etc
- electric windows
- cast intake manifold

Things that add weight lol
- sway bars
- King shocks
- control arms
- exhaust manifold
- turbo
- intercooler
- harness bars

Should be interesting, would be awesome to be in the 4500's!


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Ryan's "handling kit" haha.

Whiteline swaybars F&R
Whiteline panhard bushings F&R
Whiteline radius arm bushings F
Whiteline solid lower trailing arm R
Whiteline adjustable upper trailing arm R
New tierods and connecting rod ends, Front and rear axle rebuild kit with new bearing, and other cool stuff via @beno
1* camber bearings and new stainless brake lines from Slee
Custom King's with a 14" F and 13.6" R compression lengths
Not pictured cut OEM springs. lol.

Other thing I really want to do before making any decisions about handling is get the steering box rebuilt.

Install should begin tomorrow!

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Ok fail #1. King's front shock shafts are smaller than the rears. Rears are 0.875" fronts are 0.750" So my Eibach shaft bumpstops are not correct. I guess I can throw them on while I order another set. At least it is the fronts they are a lot easier to just unbolt the bottoms and fix. I wonder why they use a larger shaft in the rear? I guess weight distribution was 50/50 before I started taking stuff out and people carry heavy loads in the back but you have that big lump of iron up front. Oh well my oversight.
 
Im dying to see what the cut springs do to the ride height with the volks on... (the look) and your thoughts on the feel of the suspension before I do mine...
 
You and me both! But I haven't been able to find a shop in Richmond to do the install and I am back to my crazy schedule no break for 2 months.


Im dying to see what the cut springs do to the ride height with the volks on... (the look) and your thoughts on the feel of the suspension before I do mine...
 
I have a couple of questions.

How did you determine how cold of a plug to run in this set up?

How does fuel pressure affect injector performance?

Can you raise fuel pressure to compensate for injector size?
 
Fuel pressure increases output flow of the injectors but reduces output flow of the fuel pump. So if you scale up the fuel pressure just make sure you have a pump that can support the pressure and flow you are looking to hit. Guys usually try to stick to a 1:1 rising rate fuel regulator but there are as high as 3:1 regulators for people that want to try that route. So in a 1:1 setup you start with a base fuel pressure of 43psi and add 10psi of boost you end up with 53psi at the fuel injectors (If your fuel pump can handle it) in a 3:1 setup you would start with 43psi base fuel pressure and at 10psi of boost would end up with 73psi at the fuel injectors. This is NOT a linear system. You will not flow 2x as much at 60psi as you will at 30psi, it is an increase but I would try to avoid it. Most people that do it would be guys that have setup a fuel system, have had it on the dyno or road tuned and see a lean out condition at the to of the RPM range and max boost. They don't need a lot but a little would solve their problem. They increase the fuel pressure instead of running the injectors at 100+% injector duty cycle.

Plug coldness is based on detonation, it is going to be kind of a trial and error but I would imagine I will end up quite a bit colder. I know on my other truck I am 2 steps colder.



I have a couple of questions.

How did you determine how cold of a plug to run in this set up?

How does fuel pressure affect injector performance?

Can you raise fuel pressure to compensate for injector size?
 
Just kind of goofing off today. I cut the mounting plate from a sheet of carbon fiber and mounted the APR carbon fiber mirrors. They are completely ridiculous but it's a 7lb difference between the stock mirrors and the APR mirrors, still using the stock mounting gasket.


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I likeey, how does it look overall when you step back and look at it in its entirety?
 
I think it is going to look really good once I actually get things moving. I was given a lead on a shop to do the suspension stuff, and I should have gone to see them today, but I was messing with these damn mirrors. I will see if I can't make some time in my schedule to actually make some damn progress. I have all the parts, just need to make some headway. I even have all new weather stripping and belt line trim for after the paint. I am really excited to see how it comes together, with the solid rear windows and everything smoothed out. The only thing I have not been able to find that I really would like is a rear window without the defrost grid or tint, so that all the glass would be clear and I could put a nice tint on it.

I likeey, how does it look overall when you step back and look at it in its entirety?
 
Manufacturing new curved chopped windshields - Custom Car Chronicle

I'll leave this ^^ here. Because after removing the headliner and sunroof pan (which probably weighs 100 lbs) there is about 6 inches of extra space above my head (I'm 6' 4"). And because a chopped 80 muscle truck would be too sick. And it seems like you don't have enough going on with this project....
 
You know what's really funny is I already read that exact article, before common sense kicked in. If I was doing my own body work it would be one thing but to pay a shop to chop it was going to be ridiculous. Even to have them just shave the drip rails they said it would be over $2,000.
 
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You know what's really funny is I already read that exact article, before common sense kicked in. If I was doing my own body work it would be one thing but to pay a shop to chop it was going to be ridiculous. Even to have them just shave the drip rails they said it would be over $2,000.


s***. Yea I would probably not do that. Maybe version 2.0.

I can't wait to see this thing lowered.
 

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