Builds 80 series where to start! Again.... (1 Viewer)

[scottryana]

Yeah I haven't really gotten to the brake problem yet just things that cross my mind. I may be ok with these cams, not really sure yet. I am pretty sure I am going to not stick with the auto though.... I just don't know if I can trust it. I would hate to drop $3-3500 and then blow it up when that money can go to a different solution. So I was just thinking about my options with 3rd pedal and if I wanted to do overseas parts or just do a complete 3 pedal box. Still just ideas.

Why not use a electric vacume pump from a diesel Ford?

Also that manifold looks........ Okay :O

 

[Mandito22]

Runners finalized! What a mess of spaghetti! lol. I was told the finish welding, flange surfacing, and port smoothing should be done by the end of the week.

View attachment 1152892 View attachment 1152893 View attachment 1152894 View attachment 1152895

super sexy spaghetti

 

[scottryana]

Notes for later.

Front piston bore size. 1.78in/45 or 46mm X2
Rear piston bore size 1.89/48m x1

Front piston area - (((1.78/2)^2)*3.14)*2 = 4.975in/sq
rear piston area - (((1.89/2)^2)*3.14) = 2.80in/sq

Recommended pad pressure 1200lbs for a disc system

(Pedal pressure * pedal ratio * piston bore area)/master cylinder area.

(100lbs * 5.75) = 575lbs /2 = 287.5lbs per master

7/8" front master
287.5lbs / 0.6in/sq = 480psi * 4.975in/sq = 2383lbs front piston force
1" rear master
287.5lbs / 0.785in/sq = 366psi * 2.80in/sq = 1025lbs rear piston force

*Makes a 70% front brake bias, might need smaller master cylinder.

7/8" cylinder would be 1344lbs or 64%

2lb residual valve

 

[ZA80]

Which manual box would you use? Lots of guys have just removed auto brake pedal and bolted in clutch and brake pedal from manual. Bolt holes are already in place.

 

[scottryana]

I am really considering a Quaife 6 speed sequential box with built in transfer case. They rate it at 750hp continuous for endurance racing and even higher for bursts.

Which manual box would you use? Lots of guys have just removed auto brake pedal and bolted in clutch and brake pedal from manual. Bolt holes are already in place.

 

[dogfishlake]

Notes for later.

Front piston bore size. 1.78in/45 or 46mm X2
Rear piston bore size 1.89/48m x1

Front piston area - (((1.78/2)^2)*3.14)*2 = 4.975in/sq
rear piston area - (((1.89/2)^2)*3.14) = 2.80in/sq

Recommended pad pressure 1200lbs for a disc system

(Pedal pressure * pedal ratio * piston bore area)/master cylinder area.

(100lbs * 5.75) = 575lbs /2 = 287.5lbs per master

7/8" front master
287.5lbs / 0.6in/sq = 480psi * 4.975in/sq = 2383lbs front piston force
1" rear master
287.5lbs / 0.785in/sq = 366psi * 2.80in/sq = 1025lbs rear piston force

*Makes a 70% front brake bias, might need smaller master cylinder.

7/8" cylinder would be 1344lbs or 64%

2lb residual valve

C'mon man, that's not tech! What kind of cupholders are you putting in?

 

[scottryana]

Ha, those are just notes for me. I looked it all up but didn't want to lose it.

C'mon man, that's not tech! What kind of cupholders are you putting in?

 

[dogfishlake]

Great stuff, it's nice to see someone break out of the box and apply some modern tech to our old 80's. Nearly every other enthusiast vehicle has been messed with and modified. Not that the 80 hasn't, but in the U.S. it sure seems scarce. Keep it up and keep sharing!

 

[cjmoon]

I am really considering a Quaife 6 speed sequential box with built in transfer case. They rate it at 750hp continuous for endurance racing and even higher for bursts.

Now your getting serious finally with this build. It's about time...

That almost becomes a deticated race car at that point. No low range now your just talking crazy talk. Prabbaly less rotating mass also.

Keep it up. One of a kind by miles

Sent from my SM-G900V

 

[scottryana]

Yeah here is where I am,

With the stock auto, even if you build it you are looking at $4000 for trans and torque converter, then you can't run a 200k mile TC so you either rebuild or buy a new TC that is $1500-2200. And you still don't have control of the shift points so you add TCM-2000 that is $1000. Now you are at almost $7k and you are still not sure if it is going to work. If you do blow it up, then you have to get a new built auto probably 700R4 or 4L60/65/80E, and a new torque converter probably another $3-4k and then the adaptor to the stock TC $1600 as well as having a bell housing adapter made.

Just seems like if I am going to go through it why go through all that cost and time to maybe get it right and have 30% drivetrain loss when I can just do it right the first time and get 6 speeds and sequential and retain AWD.

Now your getting serious finally with this build. It's about time...

That almost becomes a deticated race car at that point. No low range now your just talking crazy talk. Prabbaly less rotating mass also.

Keep it up. One of a kind by miles

Sent from my SM-G900V

 

[warezdog]

I did think about that, and I even just thought about using the trucks stock springs but I just figured that most springs were getting to be 20+ years old and they were probably not as stiff as they should be. So I bit the bullet and bought new. I will start with 1 wrap and if it looks stupid, I can always cut lower

I was just trying to save you from cutting new springs but true, you can always make them shorter!

 

[ZA80]

I rebuilt my A442f before turbo and recond the TC. 10k km and my direct drive clutches are screwed.

I however want to keep my low range and transfer case.

I am in for $3500 to rebuild current box and import an extreme valve body from wholesale automatics. Excluding labour.

To go manual a different flywheel, clutch, pedal modification. Fairly easy. Adapter from gearbox to transfer case fairly easy.

Thinking and calculating I think you have the answer to 1fzfe turbo and fuel consumption.

Need to contact these guys.

Yeah here is where I am,

With the stock auto, even if you build it you are looking at $4000 for trans and torque converter, then you can't run a 200k mile TC so you either rebuild or buy a new TC that is $1500-2200. And you still don't have control of the shift points so you add TCM-2000 that is $1000. Now you are at almost $7k and you are still not sure if it is going to work. If you do blow it up, then you have to get a new built auto probably 700R4 or 4L60/65/80E, and a new torque converter probably another $3-4k and then the adaptor to the stock TC $1600 as well as having a bell housing adapter made.

Just seems like if I am going to go through it why go through all that cost and time to maybe get it right and have 30% drivetrain loss when I can just do it right the first time and get 6 speeds and sequential and retain AWD.

 

[scottryana]

In your case if you are staying under 300kw/400hp to the wheels I would just go with the Toyota manual trans and be done with it.

I rebuilt my A442f before turbo and recond the TC. 10k km and my direct drive clutches are screwed.

I however want to keep my low range and transfer case.

I am in for $3500 to rebuild current box and import an extreme valve body from wholesale automatics. Excluding labour.

To go manual a different flywheel, clutch, pedal modification. Fairly easy. Adapter from gearbox to transfer case fairly easy.

Thinking and calculating I think you have the answer to 1fzfe turbo and fuel consumption.

Need to contact these guys.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I am really considering a Quaife 6 speed sequential box with built in transfer case. They rate it at 750hp continuous for endurance racing and even higher for bursts.

Finally!! I'm glad to see you have come to your senses. This thread was really off the tracks for a bit there. Good to see its come back to reality. [emoji6]

 

[OGBeno]

This whole thread is off the hook. Off the MF'in hook I say.

It's finally nice to see someone do what the Ozzies and the Arabs have been doing for over a decade.

 

[warezdog]

This whole thread is off the hook. Off the MF'in hook I say.

It's finally nice to see someone do what the Ozzies and the Arabs have been doing for over a decade.

I agree, it will finally be nice to see a youtube video of an 80 in the states laying down some stripes on the street.

 

[ZA80]

Power brake solution. Thought i would post when I stumbled across this site:
COMP Cams: Vacuum Canisters

 

[tomcat]

The best idea is some sort of conversion to the 100 series electronic booster that the rest of us can copy after all the bugs are worked out.
Man there brakes are sweet

 

[bignasty]

Look what I found.

 

[scottryana]

haha I love this part

"These were the cars first passes and on lower power so it should be a quick one once they turn that boost up."