80 series towing questions (1 Viewer)

[Adventuric]

Hey guys, I got a 95 LC can't find any pin point on the towing capacity for this thing. I have a full tow package for it but the stickers are all worn off. Trans is on it's way out so I'm debating doing an LS swap since I have both a 6.0 and a 5.3 laying around at my shop. Does anyone know what the rating would be both stock and with the ls swap in it roughly? For reference trailer I'd be towing is my 26 foot camper, around 4400 i believe, currently using my F350 to tow it.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Stock LC80 towing spec is 5000#. This is in the manual.

I don't think it has as much to do with the engine or transmission as it does with the strength of the rear diff, but that's my parrotting some other internet expert. YMMV

 

[Adventuric]

Stock LC80 towing spec is 5000#. This is in the manual.

I don't think it has as much to do with the engine or transmission as it does with the strength of the rear diff, but that's my parrotting some other internet expert. YMMV

I'm was thinking trans weak point, figured these diffs pretty bulletproof. But for sure I'm gonna go with 5k no matter motor to stay safe, looks like I'll be getting my trailer weighed.

 

[ppc]

There are many factors that go into the calculation for tow rating including weight of vehicle, wheelbase, design/capabilities of the suspension, frame, tires, brakes, weight distribution to name a few. Engine horsepower/torque and transmission are way down on the list. It's far more important to be able control a vehicle under extreme conditions such as high winds, emergency braking, evasive maneuvers than is for how fast can it accelerate or how steep of grade can be climbed.

An engine swap will have little to no change to those calculations.

 

[Adventuric]

There are many factors that go into the calculation for tow rating including weight of vehicle, wheelbase, design/capabilities of the suspension, frame, tires, brakes, weight distribution to name a few. Engine horsepower/torque and transmission are way down on the list. It's far more important to be able control a vehicle under extreme conditions such as high winds, emergency braking, evasive maneuvers than is for how fast can it accelerate or how steep of grade can be climbed.

An engine swap will have little to no change to those calculations.

Might be downgrading to a smaller trailer or upgrading to a larger rig, I've been spoiled having the 350 to tow with, but want my tow rig and my wheeler to be the same

 

[JeepinPete]

I've towed 5500 lbs with my '95 roughly 50 miles on multiple occasions. I also drug a 4000 lb popup camper all over New England for a two week vacation. Since then I've added a newer Durango and towed a 7k lb camper out to Yellowstone and back. Just to give a little background...

The 5500lb load was all weight, very little additional wind resistance. M1102 trailer. Speed kept to 60 mph tops, most of the time 50 mph. Surge brakes on that trailer. Truck was running 37" tires, ABS and LSPV removed, upgraded brake pads front and rear (Hawk LTS pads). And airbags in the rear springs.

Power was very lacking, handling was ok. Braking was ok. Wouldn't want to drive it much further than I did.

The 4000 lb popup was a dual axle, electric brake. The truck was set up as described above. I did have an electric brake controller installed. It was fine up to 50 mph power wise, braking was fine, handling was fine. The popup had a bit more wind resistance than the military trailer. Above 50mph, you could feel it. I ran the highways a decent amount on that trip, and spent a lot of time in 2nd and third. Frankly, I flogged the truck for two weeks.

Just for comparison, 2015 Durango with the Hemi and tow package. 30' travel trailer, 7k lbs loaded. Weight distribution hitch. A lot of folks would say too much trailer for the truck, but all my numbers were in acceptable ranges, except for tongue weight. That rig towed so much better, handled better, braked better than anything I have pulled with the 80.

If you are going to swap out the drive train, then power will be a non-issue. A weight distribution hitch makes towing so much nicer, I highly recommend using one. Problem is Toyota was very specific not to use one. My theory on this is the brakes. The LSPV require the back end of the truck to sag in order to up the pressure to the rear brakes. If you use a weight distribution hitch, that doesn't happen. Personally, I would yank the LSPV and ABS to allow the use of a weight distribution hitch. The brakes on these beasts can be more than adequate for this job. The weight distribution hitch is a superior solution to airbags in the springs.

 

[Adventuric]

I've towed 5500 lbs with my '95 roughly 50 miles on multiple occasions. I also drug a 4000 lb popup camper all over New England for a two week vacation. Since then I've added a newer Durango and towed a 7k lb camper out to Yellowstone and back. Just to give a little background...

The 5500lb load was all weight, very little additional wind resistance. M1102 trailer. Speed kept to 60 mph tops, most of the time 50 mph. Surge brakes on that trailer. Truck was running 37" tires, ABS and LSPV removed, upgraded brake pads front and rear (Hawk LTS pads). And airbags in the rear springs.

Power was very lacking, handling was ok. Braking was ok. Wouldn't want to drive it much further than I did.

The 4000 lb popup was a dual axle, electric brake. The truck was set up as described above. I did have an electric brake controller installed. It was fine up to 50 mph power wise, braking was fine, handling was fine. The popup had a bit more wind resistance than the military trailer. Above 50mph, you could feel it. I ran the highways a decent amount on that trip, and spent a lot of time in 2nd and third. Frankly, I flogged the truck for two weeks.

Just for comparison, 2015 Durango with the Hemi and tow package. 30' travel trailer, 7k lbs loaded. Weight distribution hitch. A lot of folks would say too much trailer for the truck, but all my numbers were in acceptable ranges, except for tongue weight. That rig towed so much better, handled better, braked better than anything I have pulled with the 80.

If you are going to swap out the drive train, then power will be a non-issue. A weight distribution hitch makes towing so much nicer, I highly recommend using one. Problem is Toyota was very specific not to use one. My theory on this is the brakes. The LSPV require the back end of the truck to sag in order to up the pressure to the rear brakes. If you use a weight distribution hitch, that doesn't happen. Personally, I would yank the LSPV and ABS to allow the use of a weight distribution hitch. The brakes on these beasts can be more than adequate for this job. The weight distribution hitch is a superior solution to airbags in the springs.

I've got a distribution hitch that lives on my Ford, would swap right into the cruiser receiver, adjustable height so would level out the trailer fine as well. I've been wanting to delete the abs and lspv anyways so maybe I'll do that first and drive around town with as it is and see how the weight feels. If reasonable and feels safe maybe I'll do the swap and use it.

 

[flintknapper]

I've got a distribution hitch that lives on my Ford, would swap right into the cruiser receiver, adjustable height so would level out the trailer fine as well. I've been wanting to delete the abs and lspv anyways so maybe I'll do that first and drive around town with as it is and see how the weight feels. If reasonable and feels safe maybe I'll do the swap and use it.

Toyota advises against a weight distributing hitch on the 80 series. They don't give a reason why....but the caution is in their literature.

 

[Adventuric]

Toyota advises against a weight distributing hitch on the 80 series. They don't give a reason why....but the caution is in their literature.

I think Pete's idea of it being from the wanted sag of the rear for the stock brake setup, if that's removed and bypassed though the truck wouldn't require the sag anymore. Itd all test n theory for now, if someone came in here right now said hey I took my cruiser out with just about 5k in trailer weight and couldn't stop it or the trailer was too much for me to turn without sliding (happened to me with my old little mini truck towing a ranger, went like 45 miles of back roads and turns were sketch. High school was a sketchy time though), then I'd probably just give up and look into something bigger. I'd like to make this cruiser work because I like both my cruiser and my current trailer but I'd also like to be able to use them both on the same camping trips. Of course not the end of the world, if it turns out not to be safe I'm not stupid either

 

[White Stripe]

You could hook up your camper to your 80 series now and see how it does. With the LS swap it will just have more power.

 

[ppc]

I think Pete's idea of it being from the wanted sag of the rear for the stock brake setup, if that's removed and bypassed though the truck wouldn't require the sag anymore. Itd all test n theory for now, if someone came in here right now said hey I took my cruiser out with just about 5k in trailer weight and couldn't stop it or the trailer was too much for me to turn without sliding (happened to me with my old little mini truck towing a ranger, went like 45 miles of back roads and turns were sketch. High school was a sketchy time though), then I'd probably just give up and look into something bigger. I'd like to make this cruiser work because I like both my cruiser and my current trailer but I'd also like to be able to use them both on the same camping trips. Of course not the end of the world, if it turns out not to be safe I'm not stupid either

There is not anyone that is going to tell you those things. They all died and killed bus loads of nuns. Hope you have a good lawyer on retainer.

 

[Oscar Witte]

The brakes are by far the weak link imo. Ive towed close to 8000 pounds cross state with my swap and 7300 lbs from Florida to Cincinnati, but I wouldn't do it without good trailer brakes. The only thing that might get you is the wind resistance of that camper with the stock motor imo. If you ls swapped it it should tow that camper just fine, just watch the tongue weight.

 

[BILT4ME]

I towed 80,000 pounds once with my Land Cruiser.

So, 80,000 is the limit.

 

[Oscar Witte]

I towed 80,000 pounds once with my Land Cruiser.

So, 80,000 is the limit.

exactly

 

[FJ40Jim]

In the US, base model FJ80 were rated 3500#.
All FZJ80 and FJ80 with tow package were rated 5000#. Tow package seems to be the big tranny cooler & 90A alternator.
In ROW, tow rating is 3500Kg.
As stated above, it's not the annoying lack of power, it's the fatally weak braking that is a concern.

 

[Adventuric]

The brakes are by far the weak link imo. Ive towed close to 8000 pounds cross state with my swap and 7300 lbs from Florida to Cincinnati, but I wouldn't do it without good trailer brakes. The only thing that might get you is the wind resistance of that camper with the stock motor imo. If you ls swapped it it should tow that camper just fine, just watch the tongue weight.

Trailer brakes have been working great, they definitely stop my dually more so than my dually stopping them.

 

[Adventuric]

In the US, base model FJ80 were rated 3500#.
All FZJ80 and FJ80 with tow package were rated 5000#. Tow package seems to be the big tranny cooler & 90A alternator.
In ROW, tow rating is 3500Kg.
As stated above, it's not the annoying lack of power, it's the fatally weak braking that is a concern.

So realistically, upgrading and updating the cruisers brake system, and making sure I have a good working controller and good working trailer brakes are the main concern from what I'm reading. Correct?

 

[Oscar Witte]

So realistically, upgrading and updating the cruisers brake system, and making sure I have a good working controller and good working trailer brakes are the main concern from what I'm reading. Correct?

that would be correct

 

[flintknapper]

There is not anyone that is going to tell you those things. They all died and killed bus loads of nuns. Hope you have a good lawyer on retainer.

It's Nuns with puppies (orphaned puppies, starving and cold). And a few kittens too.

 

[crx7]

Every body says the FJ80 brakes are the limiting factor, but I disagree. Above a certain weight you're using the trailer brakes to stop the trailer, not the tow vehicle's brakes. I tow a 2200lb dry trailer, it's probably 2600 wet, at least. I have no issues braking while towing as the trailer brakes work and are adjusted properly.

LSPV: Once you start using airbags it's out the door as well. Thus I've theoretically been towing all over the place without it supposedly activating the rear brakes. Towing without airbags doesn't work at the front end is way up in the air and the rear sags severely. This idea that towing with the rear sagging to increase the rear braking power makes no sense as it throws off the handling dynamics.

Brakes and handling wise, I have no issues towing at this weight. However, power is an issue. Going up 10 and 11k foot passes, I'm at 30 mph with the 1FZ.

I have towed with about 5500 lbs when I was using a car trailer with my M3 on top. This was through the mountains but with no high passes on I70 from Eagle to Grand Junction, CO. It did fine at 65 and got decent mileage. However, I don't think I could recommend towing full time at this weight. The 2500 to 3000 lb is about the limit of the stock rig, and again I have trailer brakes and airbags.