4runner2FJ60
SILVER Star
Does anyone have a link to a good thread on doing this swap on an early model year 60 pre-85 with changing the holes & sleeves in the frame?
80 series steering box into a 60 series (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Silveredition
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I have not seen one.
Iirc there's not a thread. Two of the holes need to change. If you're careful you can reuse the sleeves.
4runner2FJ60
SILVER Star
I swear I have seen it in a build thread somewhere......maybe I should make a thread about it?
I'm really hoping my factory 62 box lasts a good long time yet. It's showing a little age (in that every year or two I'll adjust the screw just a hair to get that 1/8 turn off of bottomed out) but no leaks and no noticeable problems. I just do NOT want to battle that pitman arm....
4runner2FJ60
SILVER Star
I'm not gonna even bother with my old one, just leave it all in one piece.....Those things are rough to get off (understatement!)
No better Pitman arm puller than the OTC 8150 or its Snap On equivalent.
Keep an eye for used on fleaBay for half-price. I found two that way.
Put pressure on the arm with the puller, then a little heat, a few squirts of penetrant, a little gentle tapping with a small ball peen hammer to start penetrant capillary, more pressure, then BANG! every time.
Keep an eye for used on fleaBay for half-price. I found two that way.
Put pressure on the arm with the puller, then a little heat, a few squirts of penetrant, a little gentle tapping with a small ball peen hammer to start penetrant capillary, more pressure, then BANG! every time.
Last edited:
This pitman arm puller worked for me, very heavy duty and adjustable. I think they rent it too. https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-...tools-heavy-duty-pitman-arm-puller/209523_0_0
I upgraded to the 105 series arm on the 80 series box, but you need to ream out the tie rod end (no one seems to mention this). I'm selling my reamer here: For Sale - Toyota tie rod end tapered reamer - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/toyota-tie-rod-end-tapered-reamer.1310440/
I upgraded to the 105 series arm on the 80 series box, but you need to ream out the tie rod end (no one seems to mention this). I'm selling my reamer here: For Sale - Toyota tie rod end tapered reamer - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/toyota-tie-rod-end-tapered-reamer.1310440/
- Thread starter
- #49
I forgot I started this thread about 2 and a half years ago!! I gave up on fitting mine myself and got it fitted while some other issues were being sorted… the original Pitman arm was used, so I am still unsure if the secondhand 80 steering box that I bought did actually have the 105 sector shaft in it as I was told??.. the steering did lose some of the sloppiness - but certainly wasn’t a magic fix (I think my springs wander a bit), but the biggest difference is when the tyres are down for beach driving, the steering is as light as with full road pressures (I have a few hundred of meters I have to drive on the bitumen through the streets before I get on the beach). Thanks!
CenTXFJ60
SILVER Star
Glad to see you finished this upgrade. From the specs listed by the others on this thread you definitely do not have a 105 shaft. Question for you since you have a 61…the 61 apparently has a power steering “idle up” sensor” which is the same concept as an AC idle up on a 2F/60. A good friend (@BigHighBlue ) put the 80 box on his clone 61 and immediately noticed a low idle issue once his 12HT warms up and the temp sensor drops his idle from the cold start range. Curious if your 61 idles lower once warmed up and you’re driving. I primarily play with transplanted 12HT’s so I’m not 100% sure what sensors activate the PS idle up. I have a few real 61’s and one of them has the additional lines going to the PS system and the others do not. Can’t recall if Ben’s has these but he can chime in. We’ve been through his whole fuel system and eliminated any potential air leaks so wondering if the increased size of the 80 box innards are putting additional demand on the PS system causing the idle up system to not work properly. Long shot but not a lot of data out there on upgrading to 80 box’s on 12ht’s that have this option.
BigHighBlue
GOLD Star
Thanks Jimmy. I'm thinking the larger power piston mentioned earlier in this thread is a possible culprit. I'm wondering if anyone including the 2Fers have noticed any change in idle at static conditions (not turning). Also wondering if perhaps the way the PS box came from the reman is causing it to create load even while I'm not actively steering.
Two 80 series boxes in use in our FJ60s. One with a 2F the other with a swapped in 3FE and we've not seen any idle effects using the 80 series boxes. To add, the 2F has a relatively new OEM power steering pump, the 3FE with a OEM pump with a lot of miles, easily >200k.
Idaho Savage
GOLD Star
Curious if any of you folks who threw a fresh 80 box on your 62 saw any improvement on wandering or general steering play/tightness. My 62 likes to wander quite a bit and I've got a good bit of play. Pitman and everything else are tight with good joints.
Thanks.
Thanks.
BigHighBlue
GOLD Star
There is an adjustment on the box to deal with the play, you can search on here or in the factory service manual. Replacing my steering box was done in an effort to solve wandering in my truck. It's hard to know what contribution the box made since I also renovated the whole suspension at the same time. I do know that my front springs were shot which I suspect to be the biggest culprit. The list of things I updated/upgraded:
New Dobinsons springs
New Tie Rod Ends
New Steering box 60 to 80
4* Castor Shims
Depending on your set up it may just be a matter of increasing the angle of your castor shims.
imo fixing your caster and replacing your TREs and leaf spring bushings will have a greater effect on wander than replacing your steering box, if you can adjust the box at least. The 80 box is a slight improvement but its not a silver bullet. Most of my wandering was coming from my worn out poly leaf spring bushings
I REALLY wish someone made delrin leaf spring bushings as an upgrade for the OME systems or even stock setups.
Agreed. I had no idea that they could influence the steering so much. Especially stuff like following the grooves in the road. Would be nice to have something more long lasting in there
There are a couple different sizes made for the muscle car crowd, but nowhere near the dimensions of OME or stock shackles and pins. I looked a few months back into having some custom machined (which would be 24 pieces per rig), but the cost was way too prohibitive.
Idaho Savage
GOLD Star
TREs are solid. And I'm rolling coils, yo.
Hmm, Let me look into this. The tolerances are easy to hit in delrin. Could see if a place I used to work would let me run one of the slant bed cnc lathes lights out with the bar feeder. Depending on how long delrin raw stock is, one could crank out a couple hundred parts in one night.
