Apologies if I'm posting on the wrong page; I'm new here, but hoping to get advice on fixing rust and at what point it becomes a problem not worth fixing. Now I'll admit I did a stupid thing--I bought the truck from people in Illinois without getting pics of the frame/powertrain. 150,000 mi w/ factory lockers, paint, body, interior were in great shape, so I gambled that rust and corrosion couldn't be THAT bad. Well, of course I picked up the truck, crawled underneath and saw rust everywhere. Let me know what y'all think.
80 series rust questions
- Thread starter boomerzoomer99
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Too late now since you bought it but doesn't look super bad. If you want you can hit it with a grinder or something and treat or paint afterward.
Or just leave it
Or just leave it
Sorry for your loss man. There is no way i would invest any sort of money or time into a truck like that. And this is coming from someone in the "rust belt". Living in TX, there is no excuse to own a rust bucket.
Part it out, or sell it.
Part it out, or sell it.
JaketheSSnake
SILVER Star
If it's not rusted through anywhere, it isn't that bad. The fact that it's not rusted through where the air cleaner bolts to the inner fender is a good sign. I have about a 4" hole there on the beater I just bought. How do the rear quarters look right behind the tires? Or in front of the rear tires into the rockers? Those are usually the first to go.
I have seen far worse. You need to get it on a lift at an exhaust shop (or wherever) and get good photos of all of the frame and other things like brake lines, brake backing plates, etc.
You should be able to stop a lot of that rust with fluid film or Hammerite/PoR products. If you find that the frame is seriously compromised, then you have a different kettle of fish.
You should be able to stop a lot of that rust with fluid film or Hammerite/PoR products. If you find that the frame is seriously compromised, then you have a different kettle of fish.
Meh, nothing structural so far. Give the worst looking spots some wacks with a hammer, poke around with screwdriver, pry bar, whatever. I'd be surprised if it didnt have years in it yet. Once youve poked around, mechanically removing as much rust as you can then paint, or your coating of choice. Or just give it a good spray with something oily, get into as much of the inside of frame and body panels, door bottoms as you can. Itll look a lot less scary and prolong the life exponentially. Rust Check brand products are a Canadian standby, they come in two flavours, a light runny red fluid and a heavier 'amber' that goes on almost like an oily gel. Red stuff for inside for inside of panels and such. Can be had in aerosols for convenience or larger quantities if desired. By the pail or even the drum. Also know as oil based rust proofing.
Can use whatever is cheap though, wd40 is too light. Old farmer method is used engine oil, I've seen people use chainsaw bar oil and Atf as well. Messy. But works,. Expect anything runny you spray into panels to drip for a day or two, not exactly street friendly.
Being in TX, once youve gotten ahead of the rusties it shouldnt be a problem for some time to come.
Ps, Fluid Film is also a Canadian product and has very similar sticking/flow characteristics to commercial rustproofing products such as 'amber' Rust Check. Much tider than the runny stuff.
Can use whatever is cheap though, wd40 is too light. Old farmer method is used engine oil, I've seen people use chainsaw bar oil and Atf as well. Messy. But works,. Expect anything runny you spray into panels to drip for a day or two, not exactly street friendly.
Being in TX, once youve gotten ahead of the rusties it shouldnt be a problem for some time to come.
Ps, Fluid Film is also a Canadian product and has very similar sticking/flow characteristics to commercial rustproofing products such as 'amber' Rust Check. Much tider than the runny stuff.
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Are you asking just to ask. If you already made up your mind to keep it, then you don't need to ask. Most people on hear would run from that. Just sayin
Most people on here aren't use to dealing with rusty trucks 
Check the bottom of the rear wheel wells for rust too. Common spot.
Working on the chassis will present issues. A lot of the smaller bolts will hang up and break it you just try to remove them. But in TX, that truck probably has another ten years before the rust is actually an issue.
Check the bottom of the rear wheel wells for rust too. Common spot.
Working on the chassis will present issues. A lot of the smaller bolts will hang up and break it you just try to remove them. But in TX, that truck probably has another ten years before the rust is actually an issue.
At the very least hit it with Rust Convertor, then Fluid Film once or twice a year. It will stop it and keep it looking a little better. Should also help fasteners come loose should you need them to.
Better way would be to wire brush, paint, then FF.
Better way would be to wire brush, paint, then FF.
Sell it to the guys on the east coast as a "rust free truck"!
Seriously, not horrible. Fluid film and PB Blaster.
Seriously, not horrible. Fluid film and PB Blaster.
Yes x2 on the Rust Converter.
But Id start pressure washing it first, then scrape off the flaky rust, then wire brush what you can, then pressure wash again and let fully dry.
Then start spraying with rust converter.
Let that dry and then Id hit with Fluid Film or one of the products that hiluxjeremy mentioned above.
Post some pics of the topside too!
Now that's funny!
Yup, typical rust belt vehicle.
You'll have to spend some time under there. Not a fun job.
Broken bolts, frozen bleeders, rusted lines.
Lots of components to replace.
Still worth it if the frame is sound and the body/mechanicals good.
It is a Land Cruiser.
You'll have to spend some time under there. Not a fun job.
Broken bolts, frozen bleeders, rusted lines.
Lots of components to replace.
Still worth it if the frame is sound and the body/mechanicals good.
It is a Land Cruiser.
It’s going to take work but it’s doable.. mine wasn’t this bad but tons of surface rust on axles and frame. Simple green.. pressure wash.. more degreaser.. more cleaning. 2 days worth of wire brushing/wheeling and used Corroseal rust converter. Still needs a top coat and paint but looks good
Manufactured in San Mateo, CA by the Eureka Chemical Company.
Corporate offices in San Francisco.
Might be confused with WoolWax.
Kellsport is in Massachusetts.
There is also a legal battle between Eurica and Kellsport due to the similarities of the products.
My bad. I have some black WoolWax that Im looking forward to trying out.
Interesting, turns out the Canadian distributor was based where I lived for a while, local legend had it made there too. Guess not. 
