80 series caster problem (1 Viewer)

[stvrn6]

I purchased this project 1997 land cruiser that i just finished working on. I took it on the highway and its very unstable. The steering seems to very jerky. The steering wheel is also not straight either its a few degrees to the right to go straight as well as has a ton of free play.
I'm running Eibach shocks with OME heavy springs front and rear due to extra load. i went to get an alignment to get a base line for my caster and its showing -2 left and -1.9 right. Do i get a 4 degree correction plat or 2? Im just asking since the 4+ correction is recommended for 4+ inch lift and im runnin 2-3 in lift. should i do bushings or plates?
edit: running 315s r17

 

[Rusty Marlin]

4 would put you in spec.
Plates are better than bushings, but they apparently crumble easily compared to OEM bushings. (no personal expirance)
Radius arms are better than plates, but expensive. (Running DVS arms)

 

[AussieHJCruza]

They drive nice with 4 degrees, and you want 2 as an absolute minimum. I'd say at least 4 degree plates. Don't bother with the offset bushings. Plates are good and corrected radius arms are better. While you've got it apart if you're doing plates, replace all the radius arm bushings with new genuine parts.

 

[Delta VS]

I purchased this project 1997 land cruiser that i just finished working on. I took it on the highway and its very unstable. The steering seems to very jerky. The steering wheel is also not straight either its a few degrees to the right to go straight as well as has a ton of free play.
I'm running Eibach shocks with OME heavy springs front and rear due to extra load. i went to get an alignment to get a base line for my caster and its showing -2 left and -1.9 right. Do i get a 4 degree correction plat or 2? Im just asking since the 4+ correction is recommended for 4+ inch lift and im runnin 2-3 in lift. should i do bushings or plates?
edit: running 315s r17

Factory spec caster is 3*, +- 1*, so as @Rusty Marlin mentioned, the 4* plates will get you within spec, albeit at the minimum.

Don’t forgot to adjust the rear panhard axle side height with either our bolt-in panhard bracket or an @eimkeith weld-in kit.

 

[CrabCake]

They drive nice with 4 degrees, and you want 2 as an absolute minimum. I'd say at least 4 degree plates. Don't bother with the offset bushings. Plates are good and corrected radius arms are better. While you've got it apart if you're doing plates, replace all the radius arm bushings with new genuine parts.

Agreed...I went from OME bushings to DVS 3 arms with OEM bushings, night and day difference. Get the front corrected and then do the DVS panhard correction bracket for the rear, you'll be shocked at the drivability improvements.

Following up...
Steering wheel angle is easily corrected, and hopefully done by the alignment shop including toe settings. For "free play", you may need to address your steering box once the alignment is corrected if it's still an issue. This is assuming that the shop (or you) have checked all of the joints including tie rods & lower knuckle bolts and are in spec.

Check other threads here on adjusting the steering box after the alignment is right, or you may be due for a rebuild.

 

[robnicko]

steering wheel centering is easily done at home. no need for alignment shop to do it.
simply loosen the clamps on the relay rod and turn it to lengthen / shorten accordingly to correct the steering wheel and then re-tighten.

see this video

 

[landtank]

There is a new phenomenon creeping in on our trucks that are routinely wheeled. It's a case where the axle bracket with tear and sometimes that tear will damage the axle housing as well. The first report was years ago and for quite a while a 1 off. But as of late the problem seems to becoming more prevalent.

It was mentioned that trucks with caster plates installed didn't seem to be affected and it has been speculated that the additional strength they add to the bracket was the reason.

My only experience with this is a friends wife tore her bracket and was running offset bushings. The repair was to move over to caster plates and thoroughly weld the plates to the axle bracket. As far as I know the problem is considered fixed.

Everybody has their favorite "best" solution. And there are many reasons for their choice. It was a hell of a lot easier to choose when there was only offset bushing to choose from.

 

[stvrn6]

4 would put you in spec.
Plates are better than bushings, but they apparently crumble easily compared to OEM bushings. (no personal expirance)
Radius arms are better than plates, but expensive. (Running DVS arms)

Okay I think I'm going to order 5 degree correction to put me at 3+. would you recommend that?

 

[stvrn6]

Thank you all for the replies and solutions! I will be ordering a 5 degree correction plate to put me at 3+ and as well as doing the panhard and checking on the steering box.

 

[Irish Reiver]

The flip side of a 5° bracket is that you may knock your front driveshaft alignment out of spec which will introduce vibrations.

 

[stvrn6]

The flip side of a 5° bracket is that you may knock your front driveshaft alignment out of spec which will introduce vibrations.

should I risk the 5 or just play it safe with the 4? as long as the truck is stable at high speeds, Right now it feels very unsafe past 50 mph.

 

[Delta VS]

There is a new phenomenon creeping in on our trucks that are routinely wheeled. It's a case where the axle bracket with tear and sometimes that tear will damage the axle housing as well. The first report was years ago and for quite a while a 1 off. But as of late the problem seems to becoming more prevalent.

It was mentioned that trucks with caster plates installed didn't seem to be affected and it has been speculated that the additional strength they add to the bracket was the reason.

My only experience with this is a friends wife tore her bracket and was running offset bushings. The repair was to move over to caster plates and thoroughly weld the plates to the axle bracket. As far as I know the problem is considered fixed.

Everybody has their favorite "best" solution. And there are many reasons for their choice. It was a hell of a lot easier to choose when there was only offset bushing to choose from.

Wouldn’t say it’s TOO new of a problem, had a long conversation with Navtec (Moab shop that has a fleet of rental 80s for those who aren’t familiar) and found out they routinely tear the axles apart/separate stock brackets from housing, running oem radius arms.

I’m guessing it’s got more to do with mileage creeping up than anything else.

That being said, welding plates to the brackets will certainly make the brackets stronger, at the same time as moving the stress to the joint with the housing.

 

[Irish Reiver]

should I risk the 5 or just play it safe with the 4? as long as the truck is stable at high speeds, Right now it feels very unsafe past 50 mph.

Hard to say without getting under it and measuring the existing angles. @landtank or @Delta VS are way more qualified to give an answer.

 

[landtank]

Wouldn’t say it’s TOO new of a problem, had a long conversation with Navtec (Moab shop that has a fleet of rental 80s for those who aren’t familiar) and found out they routinely tear the axles apart/separate stock brackets from housing, running oem radius arms.

I’m guessing it’s got more to do with mileage creeping up than anything else.

That being said, welding plates to the brackets will certainly make the brackets stronger, at the same time as moving the stress to the joint with the housing.

My stats come from years on MUD and personal experience. Those brackets aren’t the thickest material.

 

[landtank]

Thank you all for the replies and solutions! I will be ordering a 5 degree correction plate to put me at 3+ and as well as doing the panhard and checking on the steering box.

5 degree brackets can cause tie rod contact issues with the control arms depending on manufacturer.

 

[stvrn6]

5 degree brackets can cause tie rod contact issues with the control arms depending on manufacturer.

Got it thank you. I’ll just order a 4 degree to play it safe. Thank you for the help.

 

[Broski]

Not all caster plates are the same.
I think the @landtank 4 degree plates would be best suited for you needs
Fully weld I also think the they help strengthen the axle brackets.
I like the way the rotate the axle instead of just dropping the front like most plates.
Are caster correcting arms better IMO yes at about five times the cost.
I also agree that like other have said replace all the bushings with OEM bushings.
And while you’re at it, replace all the tie rod & drag link end.
You won’t believe how much this will tighten things up.

 

[Delta VS]

Not all caster plates are the same.
I think the @landtank 4 degree plates would be best suited for you needs
Fully weld I also think the they help strengthen the axle brackets.
I like the way the rotate the axle instead of just dropping the front like most plates.
Are caster correcting arms better IMO yes at about five times the cost.
I also agree that like other have said replace all the bushings with OEM bushings.
And while you’re at it, replace all the tie rod & drag link end.
You won’t believe how much this will tighten things up.

The @landtank plates are indeed the way to go if choosing that option

 

[stvrn6]

The @landtank plates are indeed the way to go if choosing that option

ill definitely consider them especially since they've been a great help here on this thread. the only issue is in my current situation i may need to go for a bolt on solution now than upgrade down the line.
edit: just seen that welding is optional!

 

[landtank]

you can choose not to weld them but it’s not considered optional by me.

People have installed them and then driven to a shop to get the welding done. The welding is basically a small stitch at the front of each plate.

If the welding is an obstacle you can’t get around then a complete bolt on solution is your best path.