80 series caster problem (1 Viewer)

[stvrn6]

I purchased this project 1997 land cruiser that i just finished working on. I took it on the highway and its very unstable. The steering seems to very jerky. The steering wheel is also not straight either its a few degrees to the right to go straight as well as has a ton of free play.
I'm running Eibach shocks with OME heavy springs front and rear due to extra load. i went to get an alignment to get a base line for my caster and its showing -2 left and -1.9 right. Do i get a 4 degree correction plat or 2? Im just asking since the 4+ correction is recommended for 4+ inch lift and im runnin 2-3 in lift. should i do bushings or plates?
edit: running 315s r17

 

[mudgudgeon]

I’ll take it. I waited 5 weeks before I saw my ortho while still (carefully) riding my bike because I am stubborn and stupid. The tendon tear broke the upper humerus at the attachment point in a disc fracture, tore the labrum above the long bicep tendon and the rotator cuff. Proud owner of a repaired rotator cuff and relocated long bicep tendon so it won’t aggravate the labrum. Sleep…yea…not so much…that’s pushing through during a degree.

I need my once a decade caster conversation on mud apparently to take out my frustration

Brutal!
Good luck with your recovery. Sounds way worse than mine.
Two words, re hab, re hab, re hab!

Don't get slack with rehab

 

[Idaho Savage]

Anyone tried going from a 2.5 plate to a 4? I need additional correction however I'm wondering if it'll require new mounts/perches due to "too many holes?...giggity". At this point I would likely go the Delta route but I'd rather not drop that sort of coin.

Vehicle is an FJ62 w 80 axles and coils and I'm chasing some memory steer.

 

[CharlieS]

Seems like you could weld up holes pretty easily, if that's a concern.

 

[Idaho Savage]

Seems like you could weld up holes pretty easily, if that's a concern.

Yeah, that occurred to me. I have passable welding skills.

 

[landtank]

During the design phase I had to fill some holes. I bought som 5/8 rod, cut it into sections, slid it into the holes so as to span the bracket. Welded the outside, using an angle grinder with a cut off wheel cutout the center section, welded the inside and then used a flap disk to smooth everything out.

 

[Schnurr22]

Or just join the dark side, cut it all off and tune caster and pinion angle individually. At 4*, my Cruiser wanted to wander a decent amount unless the road was glass smooth and occasionally the front wheels would try to shopping cart a bit at speed which was entertaining. I tried every tire pressure between 26 and 40, and toe adjustments in 1/8" increments from a 1/2" out to in. I made the decision to adjust caster to 6* and now my Cruiser decided to behave at freeway speed, even loaded for 8 days of wheeling with the whole family on a 10 hour drive. It is strange how different rigs are compared to each other. My dad has an 80 lifted more than mine and had only old OME caster bushings and his drove straighter than mine until I dialed more things in with the 3 link.

We are having the same difficulty with death wobble. We installed an OEM 3” lift kit by the book; we relaxed and measured to ??properly?? Set the OEM offset bushings. I know the caster is currently -1/2*. I believe I can rotate the offset bushing to gain some offset; were you able to get to 6* with adjusting the bushing alone or are there other tricks?

 

[AgentOrange]

We are having the same difficulty with death wobble. We installed an OEM 3” lift kit by the book; we relaxed and measured to ??properly?? Set the OEM offset bushings. I know the caster is currently -1/2*. I believe I can rotate the offset bushing to gain some offset; were you able to get to 6* with adjusting the bushing alone or are there other tricks?

That 6* is after I 3 linked the front. Now it drives exactly the way I want it to. Not the solution for most to be sure, but it’s been good for me