$80/liter transfer case oil
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I put Valvoline Synpower 75w-90 Full Synthetic 9,000 miles ago in the transfer and both differential cases. During this time I've had the rig on 4x4 roads, snow, dirt, mud, pavement, from very cold temps to hot temps, and utilizing the 4 low with the diff locked. No issues. Very affordable option.
Oh, man. I only recently ordered stuff from Kaon, did not know about that plug. Spendy it is.
I am using the 14mm Lexus plug, should be good enough and it's like $7. According to Kaon some FJs/Prados had non-Allen 10mm bolt.
kcjaz
SILVER Star
didn't know that plug existed which is probably good or I would have bought it.
yeah I bought it before all the Lexus plug stuff was posted. or I saw it anyway, oh well.. it's done and should be easy from now on for the annual service I normally do on my trucks (diffs are done annually on my other trucks, what's one more) - I did also finally get a Motive power Fill as well, should have bought this thing years ago. makes filling diffs, transfer boxes, etc a totally breeze.
kcjaz
SILVER Star
Annually? Holy crap. I must be a slacker. The manual say every 30K if towing or driving on dirt roads. For none towing or only on pavement use, it never really says to change the diff/transfer oil. I bet a lot of people go over 100K with never doing it.
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If you take care of it then you're not a slacker! We got our '08 in 2019 with 225k miles on it. I changed the fluids in all the cases shortly thereafter. Ugh, the smell was horrible and the fluid looked like it came out of a 1920's steam locomotive. Even if you don't tow or go on 4x4 trails, change them regularly. I don't tow but we go on 4x4 trails in the summer and I take several 3k-miles trip annually. My schedule is to replace all case fluids every 30k-40k miles.
Another observation point:
2011 LX
Bought with 68k miles.
Current mileage: 122k miles.
I use Amsoil 75-90 all around every 20k miles (3 flushes so far) as I do some light towing (5-6k lbs) and do lots of highway driving (probably more wear on fluid than low speed cruising). I don't do off-roading and haven't tried TC lock.
Couple observations:
Fluid from rear diff always looks clean and new.
TC fluid comes out slightly greyish.
Front diff fluid looks the worst - dark grey.
Soft squeeze pack is awesome. Last change I did on the ground without any special tools (just a few sockets).
I'm due for another flush in 5-10k miles. Will update then.
2011 LX
Bought with 68k miles.
Current mileage: 122k miles.
I use Amsoil 75-90 all around every 20k miles (3 flushes so far) as I do some light towing (5-6k lbs) and do lots of highway driving (probably more wear on fluid than low speed cruising). I don't do off-roading and haven't tried TC lock.
Couple observations:
Fluid from rear diff always looks clean and new.
TC fluid comes out slightly greyish.
Front diff fluid looks the worst - dark grey.
Soft squeeze pack is awesome. Last change I did on the ground without any special tools (just a few sockets).
I'm due for another flush in 5-10k miles. Will update then.
Great thread, thanks to everyone for the comments and suggestions. I have a new to me 2008 LX, with 140K miles. Working on baselining. FSM and this thread say 75W-90 for the transfer case, so that's not a bad choice. Cost aside, are there any downsides to using Ravenol 75W or the Toyota LF 75W in my 2008? My 4Lo and CDL lights flash sometimes and it seems a few folks have seen that problem resolve after going to 75W. I'm inclined to give it a try unless there are some reasons why it's risky.
The transfer case changed in 2011, I think, which coincides with the switch from 75W-85 or 75W-90 to 75W-LF. While I don't think it'll hurt for you to use 75W, there's likely no benefit for you, it could be negative given the original spec, and besides 75W LF is very expensive. FWIW:
- 75W-90 behaves like a 75 weight oil when cool and a 90 weight oil when hot (W = winter, not "weight"). Basically it maintains viscosity better when hot. If you run your transfer case really hard (a lot of low speed off-road driving in 4Lo with the center diff locked, maybe also with shorter diff gears like 4.88s) then 75W-90 might be better than 75W. But when cold the fluid should behave identically.
- Ravenol 75W (and now Royal Purple 75W) are possible replacements for 75W-LF. They're not technically a replacement for 75W-85 or 75W-90. Go with Redline or Amsoil or Toyota fluid for that matter.
- I've run 75W LF, 75W-90, and Ravenol 75W in my 2013 and regardless I still get the fast flashing CDL on cold startup occasionally.
- As @TeCKis300 noted in a different thread, the flashing CDL seems to be an issue wit the electronics inside the actuator motor, which is sealed and does not get gear oil in it so the fluid doesn't really matter/help. Anecdotally the fix seems to be to remove the actuator motor and clean the electronic contacts in it.
Thankyou. All makes sense. I will find the thread by TeCKis300 that you referenced.
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
I'll be doing my center diff oil change soon so I was carefully researching the oil recommended by Toyota, the differences between GL-4 and GL-5 etc...
I will probably use the Toyota LF oil however Royal Purple was mentioned earlier so I found this and thought I'd post the document from their website:
http://www.royalpurple.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Royal_Purple_Transmission_Reference.pdf
I will probably use the Toyota LF oil however Royal Purple was mentioned earlier so I found this and thought I'd post the document from their website:
http://www.royalpurple.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Royal_Purple_Transmission_Reference.pdf
| TRANSMISSION | LUBRICANT SPEC /PART NUMBER | ROYAL PURPLE’S RECOMMENDATION |
| TOYOTA | V-160, 08885-01306 (‘93 & up Turbo Supra) Toyota Genuine LF Gear Oil | Synchromax Synchromax |
Lol this thread languished. Couple sites mention there’s some variability with the Ravenol 75W due to sourcing.
Red Line has a full synthetic replacement for the Toyota Unicorn Blood t-case fluid. i may have missed someone mentioning it previously. Taco and Tundra folks have had good luck with it.
I’ll be putting it in, RL GL-5 75W85 in diffs, RL D6 in trans, Castrol SRF in brakes.
Red Line has a full synthetic replacement for the Toyota Unicorn Blood t-case fluid. i may have missed someone mentioning it previously. Taco and Tundra folks have had good luck with it.
I’ll be putting it in, RL GL-5 75W85 in diffs, RL D6 in trans, Castrol SRF in brakes.
As to variability with Ravenol 75, I buy it straight from Ravenol and it comes in their bottles.Lol this thread languished. Couple sites mention there’s some variability with the Ravenol 75W due to sourcing.
Red Line has a full synthetic replacement for the Toyota Unicorn Blood t-case fluid. i may have missed someone mentioning it previously. Taco and Tundra folks have had good luck with it.
I’ll be putting it in, RL GL-5 75W85 in diffs, RL D6 in trans, Castrol SRF in brakes.
You misunderstood. It has to do with where Ravenol is sourcing their base components.
I saw it on a few forums as I was doing some late night researching a few weeks ago. Cannot remember where atm. Might have been on Bob.
Doesn’t mean it’s bad but upside of going full synthetic is you know molecularly the fluid is consistent.
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Thanks for enlightening me, having another quality option for the TORSEN is nice.Lol this thread languished. Couple sites mention there’s some variability with the Ravenol 75W due to sourcing.
Red Line has a full synthetic replacement for the Toyota Unicorn Blood t-case fluid. i may have missed someone mentioning it previously. Taco and Tundra folks have had good luck with it.
I’ll be putting it in, RL GL-5 75W85 in diffs, RL D6 in trans, Castrol SRF in brakes.
I generally use Amsoil fluids in my other vehicles but I’m going RL this time around.
One thing I find interesting is Amsoil never does comparisons against RL and they like to benchmark.
One thing I find interesting is Amsoil never does comparisons against RL and they like to benchmark.
I'll bet you dollars to donuts that they do comparisons; they don't publish, for obvious reasons.
Lol yeah. My guess Amsoil isn’t coming out on top or reaches parity.
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