$80/liter transfer case oil
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The book says
Transfer SAE 75W
Differential 75W-80 GL-5
Is it going to hurt anything running 75w-90 in the diffs? I would think not. This is a 2016
Seems 75W is for the transfer, and even after reading all this .. I wonder what difference it would make running 75W or just plain moble-1 syn 75w-90?
Transfer SAE 75W
Differential 75W-80 GL-5
Is it going to hurt anything running 75w-90 in the diffs? I would think not. This is a 2016
Seems 75W is for the transfer, and even after reading all this .. I wonder what difference it would make running 75W or just plain moble-1 syn 75w-90?
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Probably not, but I'd do what the book says. I"m lucky, the 2009 specs the 75w-90, which is easily available.
Not yet discussed, is the dealer is using whatever is in the 55 gallon drum they have, and that almost certainly isn't Toyota special SAE 75W only.
32cls6speedmt
SILVER Star
I called three Lexus dealerships and every single one used a generic 75w-90. I called Toyota dealership and they also used 75w-90. Based on the Blackstone voa I purchased online from Toyota dealerships for $57.00 a can. I had independent mechanic changed it.
I just changed my TC gear oil using the Toyota 75W LF. I assume the factory fill was also the same. Cost was hard to swallow, but if I only have to do this every 60k miles it's not as bad I guess. I wish they came in more convenient bottles and not the can. Plus I hate throwing away 1/2 quart, but I would rather have a little extra than not quite enough...
Side by side comparison of new vs 65k factory fill. Light usage, So Cal truck, little to no towing.
Side by side comparison of new vs 65k factory fill. Light usage, So Cal truck, little to no towing.
I Wonder Why Toyota would keep Specs s Secret for this One Lubricant, When the others are known?
that's pretty dark for only 65k miles. I pulled mine around 75k miles and it was slightly darker than new, but definitely not that dark. These bandits are definitely gauging us on the fluid cost though. I did like the canned packaging, which really helps preserve the oil almost indefinitely until opened. I don't think any other automaker still packages fluids this way anymore.
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- #149
This oil is really dark when new though. See the first post. That was virgin oil from the can and looked well used.
I agree on the metal can.. for the cost of this stuff it’s nice to know it hasn’t degraded at all. As for cost.. I change it so infrequently the per-mile amount is low and I’ve just accepted it as a cost of this amazing vehicle.
fairly sure mine wasn't as dark new as shown in the first post. I'm guessing the lighting and the angle of that picture make it appear darker than it is. It's been about a year since i've done it so my recollection of it may be off.
I fly a corporate jet for a living. The oil used in the engines is called BP 2380. It is also sold in cans. We stretch a latex glove over the top of the can after it's punctured so preserve the oil. I would think that would be acceptable on the Toyota oils as well. I plan to do the same for mine.
you could also pour it in a sealable container (i.e. something with a lid that closes air tight).
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- #153
I put my extra into empty M1 gear oil bottles I had from another vehicle.
What are you planning to do with the extra? The TC is sealed so you shouldn't need to top off. Save it for the next oil change? I am planning on disposing of mine as my next oil change 60k miles from now is > 10 years.
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- #155
I changed mine again after 40k and that took less than a year and a half.. but yeah if you are adding miles that slowly tossing the extra is probably the best option. “Only” $25 worth from the online pricing I guess..
Now with a daily driver to keep miles off the 200 it’ll be much longer before I’m due again.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
I change mine every 30k. It’s not dark when new if you put it in a glass container. But man... it comes out dark.
Color doesn’t mean anything in regards to lubricant life.
The only way to know is with analysis. Which I would know something now, but my used sample was lost in the mail, and I won’t know until I switch in another 25k miles.
I had new and 30k used under regular wheeling and towing condition of oil from the same can... sucks.
Color doesn’t mean anything in regards to lubricant life.
The only way to know is with analysis. Which I would know something now, but my used sample was lost in the mail, and I won’t know until I switch in another 25k miles.
I had new and 30k used under regular wheeling and towing condition of oil from the same can... sucks.
I am getting some Nitro 4.88's installed next week. After the initial 500 miles, is it better to go with what nitro recommends or find something else?
No issues here with Amsoil Severe Duty 75w-140. I think I have around 7k post breakin. Not a lot.
So I have a 2008, which calls for 75W-90 for the Tcase, but I used the Ravenol MTF-1 75W-85 for a recent change of the tcase fluid. Think that is any thing to worry about?
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- #160
I’m betting it’ll do great. That fluid is GL-5 and my understanding is the chemistry often used to get that spec can lead to issues with yellow metal parts, but your early model case shouldn’t have any of those to worry about.