$80/liter transfer case oil

[Cruisin911]

So I have a 2008, which calls for 75W-90 for the Tcase, but I used the Ravenol MTF-1 75W-85 for a recent change of the tcase fluid. Think that is any thing to worry about?

Nope. Not at all.

Related note on the fluids, I just changed the fluid on my T-case and put in the toyota recommended factory stuff noted above. I was having intermittent diff lock flashing lights last winter. I cycled it a bunch of times post change as well as in and out of low 4 and it seems to shift easier. That may be a placebo effect due solely to the fact that I paid over 100 bucks for 2 liters of fluid.....

 

[yucatom]

Land Cruiser 100 Series in Mexico - Opinions on using Valvoline Synpower 75W-90 GL-5 in both differntials and transfer case . My Land Cruiser is 2004 with 140K miles. I live in central Mexico, and if you think Toyota Fluids are expensive in USA the cost here is much higher. One concern I have is that the Synpower is full synthetic. Thoughts would be appreciated as the synpower is locally available and about $20 / liter. At this cost I can afford to change every 30K miles. Thanks in advance.

 

[bloc]

Land Cruiser 100 Series in Mexico - Opinions on using Valvoline Synpower 75W-90 GL-5 in both differntials and transfer case . My Land Cruiser is 2004 with 140K miles. I live in central Mexico, and if you think Toyota Fluids are expensive in USA the cost here is much higher. One concern I have is that the Synpower is full synthetic. Thoughts would be appreciated as the synpower is locally available and about $20 / liter. At this cost I can afford to change every 30K miles. Thanks in advance.

I would have no problem running any GL-5 in a modern open or locking diff, and synthetic is even better.

 

[linuxgod]

@yucatom I'd be fine with it. I run 75W-90 Long Life Synthetic Gear Lube in my gears (and transfer case at one point) and now Ravenol 75W in my transfer case without issues. A good quality synthetic 75W-90 GL5 is fine

 

[yucatom]

Thanks to all of you for the quick replies. One other concern I had with this Valvoline Synpower is that it is full synthetic. Will there be a problem if (in some future date) if I decide to switch back to the OEM Toyota LX or LT petrol fluids? I have read that with engine oil the switching from synthetic to petrol is not recommended.
Thanks again!
tom

 

[bloc]

Thanks to all of you for the quick replies. One other concern I had with this Valvoline Synpower is that it is full synthetic. Will there be a problem if (in some future date) if I decide to switch back to the OEM Toyota LX or LT petrol fluids? I have read that with engine oil the switching from synthetic to petrol is not recommended.
Thanks again!
tom

No issues switching back. In engines the extra detergents can clear out deposits that are effectively preventing leaks, but in a differential or other driveline component there shouldn't be any problems with that.

 

[rlynch356]

Helpful thread...

Here is the list that I just ordered for the T-Case and Diff service. Including the new washers for all the plugs incase anyone needs that. I opted to use OEM Toyota Oil for the transfer case since the interval is fairly long. in that light its not too bad at $58/liter for 2. I am going to use Redline 50104 75w/85 GL-5
Either way the quote was $585 at the dealer for this service. Parts are $225 or so at my cost so its worthwhile to do at home.

 

[bloc]

Helpful thread...

Here is the list that I just ordered for the T-Case and Diff service. Including the new washers for all the plugs incase anyone needs that. I opted to use OEM Toyota Oil for the transfer case since the interval is fairly long. in that light its not too bad at $58/liter for 2. I am going to use Redline 50104 75w/85 GL-5
Either way the quote was $585 at the dealer for this service. Parts are $225 or so at my cost so its worthwhile to do at home.

View attachment 2476092

If you haven’t heard about the lexus IS front diff drain plug it is a worthwhile mod. 14mm external hex vs the stock 10mm internal. Less likely to strip, and pretty cheap. The only issue is having to go to a Lexus parts counter to get one. If you can’t dig up the part number let us know.

Either way I think you are approaching this the correct way. Toyota secret sauce (despite the high cost) in the thing we don’t quite understand, high quality standard fluid in the parts we do.

 

[rlynch356]

I'll check that out.. usually stripping is the tool or too much gusto on it and not the right leverage.
It's funny for the LC I'l use factory oils, the Defender gets whatever is cheapest for 90w in the diffs and the T-case, but also I do it every year, so everything spins easily. It also has no computers and is a geared transfer case unlike the 200 series chain.

Same for the motor.. 0w/20 synth for the LC and 20/50 Dino for the D90..
polar opposites..

 

[bloc]

I'll check that out.. usually stripping is the tool or too much gusto on it and not the right leverage.
It's funny for the LC I'l use factory oils, the Defender gets whatever is cheapest for 90w in the diffs and the T-case, but also I do it every year, so everything spins easily. It also has no computers and is a geared transfer case unlike the 200 series chain.

Same for the motor.. 0w/20 synth for the LC and 20/50 Dino for the D90..
polar opposites..

You'll probably see the issue when you get a look at yours. It is a pretty large diameter plug, and makes that 10mm hex look tiny. Apparently the diameter is needed because toyota uses a lever arm dial indicator in there to set up the gears. Either way the size leads to a large sealing surface, and between the metallurgy and I guess heat cycling it seems to seize up pretty often. Only 29 ft-lb to tighten, but mine probably needed 150 to come loose (with a sacrificial torx bit hammered in after the 10mm had stripped), and when it did, it let go violently, like the gasket was bonded, not a smooth loosening feeling. This detail is quite common in this forum section. Not every time, but often enough.

So, yes, I'd do some research. Many people have had to go to a lot of trouble getting that plug out after it stripped. Notching and hammering with a blunt chisel is a common method. I personally feel hammering around the periphery of it to try and disturb/compress the copper gasket before even trying to loosen is the ticket to avoiding issues.. but that assumes you have a new plug ready to go. Alternately if you have a welder on hand attaching a large nut to it will work between the heat and larger wrench/socket interface.. I recommend finding a shop for that as a go-to for anyone that gets theirs stuck and badly stripped.

 

[rlynch356]

Do you have a part# for the IS plug?

 

[bloc]

Should be 90341-24016 and only available through Lexus.

If you google that number you'll see lots of talk about it being a common upgrade for the issue on Tacomas and Tundras too.

 

[kcjaz]

This thread (and this forum in general) is great. Wondered what I'd need, searched and found this thread. Called the dealer and got my Toyota Magic Fluid for the transfer, new gaskets, and the LX plug all ready to go. Easy Peazy. Club discount dropped the gear oil price from $94/qt to $61/qt.

 

[teambell]

I found this:
Amazon product ASIN B01F7MAXX4

 

[bloc]

I found this:
Amazon product ASIN B01F7MAXX4

It’s less convenient, but they are about $10 at the lexus parts counter. Or as @kcjaz figured out some toyota dealers are able to get it now. Mine doesn’t yet.

 

[kcjaz]

The IS plug is a good call. Or at least have a spare hex plug on hand. I had to a hammer and chisel around the edge to help break it loose which messed it up it a little. I wish the new IS plug had a bigger hex head than 14mm. 24 mm like the rear diff would have been better.

 

[bloc]

The IS plug is a good call. Or at least have a spare hex plug on hand. I had to a hammer and chisel around the edge to help break it loose which messed it up it a little. I wish the new IS plug had a bigger hex head than 14mm. 24 mm like the rear diff would have been better.

Not sure whether I’ve posted this in this thread, but I’ve had really good luck with some solid hammer hits on the outer periphery of the stock plug which shocks it and kinda bends the edge down compressing the copper gasket. My friends LX had no history of the diff fluids changed at 110k and the front plug came right loose doing this.

 

[kcjaz]

Not sure whether I’ve posted this in this thread, but I’ve had really good luck with some solid hammer hits on the outer periphery of the stock plug which shocks it and kinda bends the edge down compressing the copper gasket. My friends LX had no history of the diff fluids changed at 110k and the front plug came right loose doing this.

I wonder how the deal who had serviced mine got it off. Maybe they replaced the plug when they did it or used a bigger breaker bar than I have. Just from feel I had to be north of 150 ftlb to get it off.

 

[tominboise]

Should be 90341-24016 and only available through Lexus.

If you google that number you'll see lots of talk about it being a common upgrade for the issue on Tacomas and Tundras too.

One can get this OEM plug through Amazon or Ebay as well as the dealer.

 

[bloc]

One can get this OEM plug through Amazon or Ebay as well as the dealer.

Good call. Back when I did mine it was harder to get ahold of, and I guess it’s a good sign I haven’t had to replace it since.