80 Died. Time to figure out her value (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jun 2, 2018
Threads
3
Messages
44
Location
Seattle, wa
My 95 died yesterday. Rod punched out a whole in the block.

I think it's time to move on, but I don't know how much to ask for her. Can you guys help?

History;
Early 95 emerald with tan cloth interior - not poverty pack. Has sunroof / rack (removed) / rear wing / gold emblems
Not 3x locked
240k
No rust
No rips in the interior
3rd row seats
Head rebuilt by torfab in Everett , Wa
Peaky hh replaced
Was based lined 30k ago - wires, plugs, dist. Seal, cap, rotor, pads, rotors, oil filter, fuel filter and some hoses.
New Denso radiator and hoses
Aisin water pump
New interstate battery
New Oem wiper windshield motor motor
Oem power steering pump
OME stock height springs all around
Oem shocks all around
Oem brake lines
5x 295/75/16 GY K02 - always rotated with the spare / still have tire nipples.
New oem emerald sideview mirrors
Wits' end spare tire leveler
Oem full lock set - 2 keys
Everything works (minus the engine of course) Sunroof doesn't leak. Paint is faded like most. Cracked windshield. No accidents. One minor dent in the rear tailgate. Clean title in my name.
Was originally owned by a school teacher. Never off-road. Mall cruiser.
Was a great rig up until she blew. Always started right up. Shifts smoothly. Knuckles don't click or leak. All windows, locks and sunroof opporate as they should (slow rear windows) N light was replaced and illumates.

Sad to see her go but 7k and up for a used engine swap is not in the cards.

Let me know if there's anything else I need to mention to help form an accurate asking price.

Thank you

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Prices out here have been fickle lately. My buddy threw his 350k, running, locked, good paint and interior 96 up for sale at 25k and didn't get a single message. I think it ended up going for 12k (ish) on BAT. Five years ago he would have gotten his original asking price instantly.
 
If it helps, I just bought something similar:
1994
Red
Standard leather interior that is cracked up a bit, but carpet and rest of the seats are clean and in proper order.
Triple Locked
New tires
Redone head last year
Knocking bad and will need a rebuild, but does turn over and run.
300,000 miles
No rust
Paint is faded
Book of maintenance records
Had a minor front end accident but came with all replacement parts
Utah truck
Snagged it for $2000
Seemed like a great deal for me, not sure if that helps out on what you can sell it for.
Shop estimates to the previous owner for the motor to pull it and rebuild it and reassemble was north of $10,000.
I would say you can get mid $3k from the right buyer.

Good luck!
 
If there was something like that near me for $4k or less in that good condition, I'd have trouble saying no. Anything more than that and you could pick up a high mileage runner.
 
Dang. Sounds like you've put a lot of effort into that rig.
I'd have a hard time letting it go.

Are you able to swap in a used engine yourself?

Put the feelers out and see if you can find a good running used engine.

If you can hold on to it for a while, a used engine will come up eventuslly
 
Sorry for your loss.

Get a hold of @Fj80oregon for a prolly one of the better OEM+ 1FZ rebuilders or sounds like its time for and LS swap. Either way, way more cost effective than dumping this well kept and obviously loved rig than buying some new transport appliance. At least with it running you will be able to recoupe the cost of the new power plant or drive line.

Like others have said you will miss it when its gone.
 
Thanks for the input, guys. Sounds like the consensus is about 3-5k is all she has left to offer. I was hoping it would be more like 6k, since I've seen a lot worse for 10k with 300k+ and abused to hell.

I wouldn't want to deal with parting her out and if I could only get like 3k then I would probably just let her sit in the driveway until I either came across good used engine or save up for the new oem short block. I could try the swap myself but working on these big ass heavy rigs is pretty intimidating, especially after working on my little datsun's.

As for an LS swap, I wouldn't even know where to begin and if I had to shell out 10 to 12k I would probably just move onto a newer vehicle. Maybe a 100 series? I don't love the fact that even after spending north of 7k my rig will still look the same. Would have loved to spend this money on paint. Plus, a lot of the parts have become NLA that now I am hunting for both NOS Land Cruiser and 510 parts. Might just be time for a vehicle that I can still readily get parts for.
 
Attach a new Toyota short block 11400-66041 (~$3500-4000) to your rebuilt head, drive it another 300,000 miles.

Seems like a couple times a year there's a dealer or two who have 50% off sales on parts with free shipping. IDK however if that includes
engine blocks.
 
You'll kick yourself if you sell it. At least put it in storage out of the weather until you can figure out the best route.
I would not part it out, they're getting too rare to take an otherwise good vehicle apart. Plenty of wrecks in
Salvage yards for that.
 
Well OEM short block does show as available, if there are any states side actually deliverable will have to be posed to the more guru types, or your local toyota store. LS swap depending on how crazy you go with new parts and what not could still come in for a good bit less than10k and doing 90% of the work your self.

Really not super hard its just nuts and bolts and there are plenty of manuals and youtube videos to get you past a spot you might be stuck on. Intimidating yes but in the end its all just parts changing
 
DIY! If you can work on your Datsun you can do this. Sure it's heavy, but motors are motors..... they are all basically the same.
 
I hear that you don't want to do the work, and you don't want the cost/complication of an LS swap. If I were in your shoes, I would just buy a good used motor from someone you trust on Mud. I don't think that's a unicorn situation, but maybe I'm naive. The idea of letting it sit more than a month or two would not appeal to me, as seals start to get dry and crack, paint deteriorates even more, and then it's just a big hunk of metal sitting outside your house. If I were you, I'd set a 60-90 day timer and say to myself that it's either back on the road under my ownership by then, or it's sold by then. But that's just me. Sorry you're going through this. That's a really nice looking truck, esp. the interior.
 
If I were you, I'd set a 60-90 day timer and say to myself that it's either back on the road under my ownership by then, or it's sold by then. But that's just me

That would dust bin 80% of the cruisers on mud :lol:

Good point though.
60 days is ample to find a used engine, source a few parts, and do a swap.

1 weekend to clean used engine.
1 weekend to disconnect, label and remove dead engine.
1 weekend to drop in the used engine.

Or, do all that in 1 weekend if you're keen and not too fussy.

To build up a short block and do a swap, 90 days is maybe getting optomistic, unless you're someone who's been there done that
 

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