Should be some pics in my fj40 thread below. Fj60 axle in my 40.
Builds 78 body off restore (cruiser #2)
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Curtice
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- #262
Need some opinions, if anyone has one, on mounting the ECU. My original plan was to put it in the glove box (most common). So I cut a hole in the side of the glove box and put a hole in the upper firewall for the loom. I did this because there was really nowhere else safe in the cab with room. See:
Now that I decided to do AC, it opens things up a bit. The big plastic air duct that runs under the glove box will no longer be there. Additionally, the fan blower will be gone. In its place will be a delete plate with the AC hoses passing through.
So I am thinking of moving the ECU to mount on the underside of the glove box and send the loom through the delete plate by the AC hoses. There should be enough room. So something like this:
My questions, if anyone knows...does this seem like it would work and be a good idea? Has anyone with a 3FE (or other computer controlled engine) done this? I think the only concern would be if I am ever running topless and getting it wet in the passenger footwell. But really no plans on this cruiser to ever take the hard top off. The other questions are would it work with AC hose fittings and the loom both going out the fan delete plate. Seems like it should.
The main reason for doing this move is purely for when I need access to troubleshoot engine error codes. I would need access to the wires as they connect to the ECU to do micrometer tests. Where it is planned now would be very difficult to do that since it is up high under the dash.
Anyway, just some musings today that I am trying to figure out.
Now that I decided to do AC, it opens things up a bit. The big plastic air duct that runs under the glove box will no longer be there. Additionally, the fan blower will be gone. In its place will be a delete plate with the AC hoses passing through.
So I am thinking of moving the ECU to mount on the underside of the glove box and send the loom through the delete plate by the AC hoses. There should be enough room. So something like this:
My questions, if anyone knows...does this seem like it would work and be a good idea? Has anyone with a 3FE (or other computer controlled engine) done this? I think the only concern would be if I am ever running topless and getting it wet in the passenger footwell. But really no plans on this cruiser to ever take the hard top off. The other questions are would it work with AC hose fittings and the loom both going out the fan delete plate. Seems like it should.
The main reason for doing this move is purely for when I need access to troubleshoot engine error codes. I would need access to the wires as they connect to the ECU to do micrometer tests. Where it is planned now would be very difficult to do that since it is up high under the dash.
Anyway, just some musings today that I am trying to figure out.
spotcruiser
Geezer
Personally, I hate seeing people install them in the glove box. Your planned mounting with the connections through the side of the glove box, though, is the best I've seen. At least, with that set-up, you can always take it out of the glove compartment and reconnect it in the footwell for troubleshooting.
I just don't know why people don't mount them in the engine compartment where they have easy access for troubleshooting. After 40+ years of troubleshooting equipment for a living, ease of access is always a consideration. If you want more protection, then build a water-tight box to house the ECU in the engine compt. It should be easy to find a nice open space, especially with the heater fan removed.
Just my $.02.
By the way, you always do nice work so I'm sure it will be fine no matter where you mount it.
Curtice
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- #264
Thanks. Man good stuff. Now you’ve got me thinking. I would much prefer it to be in the engine compartment. I think there is space where the heater fan was. It might interfere with AC hose routing, but I think I can put those really wherever I want.
Maybe another option down a bit lower:
(Edit) a third option...I might like this best.
(Another edit) or, and now maybe I’m getting crazy, build a little shelf or otherwise mount horizontally:
I do need to consider how the 40 harness integrates, where, routing, etc.
What do you think?
I’d probably need some help making a box to properly hold it, be safe from the weather, allow the wiring to exit the box properly. Don’t know if that is in my current abilities or toolset.
Trying to figure this all out before I paint so I can limit cutting or drilling a newly painted body as much as possible.
Maybe another option down a bit lower:
(Edit) a third option...I might like this best.
(Another edit) or, and now maybe I’m getting crazy, build a little shelf or otherwise mount horizontally:
I do need to consider how the 40 harness integrates, where, routing, etc.
What do you think?
I’d probably need some help making a box to properly hold it, be safe from the weather, allow the wiring to exit the box properly. Don’t know if that is in my current abilities or toolset.
Trying to figure this all out before I paint so I can limit cutting or drilling a newly painted body as much as possible.
Last edited:
spotcruiser
Geezer
You could build a simple shelf for it. Perhaps use existing heater fan bolts holes. A box is really not hard to build, but there are many electrical enclosures available if you want something ready-made. When you build one, though, you get the exact dimensions and features that you want.
spotcruiser
Geezer
This is a photo of the engine compt on my trail truck. I built the air filter housing on the left rather than leave the air filter exposed to mud, water, and vermin. The ECU is on the right, on a modified stock mount, in pretty much the stock Chevy location (made the wiring easier). The Vortec ECU is more stout that the 3FE ECU, so I would provide extra protection for the 3FE.
Curtice
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- #267
I'd love to check it out, might get some good ideas 
. I was actually just looking at air filter options. Because, I think I like the idea of the little ECU shelf. Would go nicely and make for easy troubleshooting. The problem with that is, that is right where I was planning my cone filter to go, pretty much like this pic from Proffitts:
I can route the intake really where ever I need to and was thinking maybe of doing a protective box for it. One option is what @lelandEOD did, and put the cone filter at the driver fender (with a protective box - I like that idea).
Or, just flex the intake slightly forward to make room for the ECU shelf. It could probably fit like my other one, with adjustments for the battery moving back:
Maybe I could even build a box that serves two purposes: filter protection and a separate compartment for the ECU
I know you say making boxes isn't hard, but it sounds hard to me haha.
. I was actually just looking at air filter options. Because, I think I like the idea of the little ECU shelf. Would go nicely and make for easy troubleshooting. The problem with that is, that is right where I was planning my cone filter to go, pretty much like this pic from Proffitts:I can route the intake really where ever I need to and was thinking maybe of doing a protective box for it. One option is what @lelandEOD did, and put the cone filter at the driver fender (with a protective box - I like that idea).
Or, just flex the intake slightly forward to make room for the ECU shelf. It could probably fit like my other one, with adjustments for the battery moving back:
Maybe I could even build a box that serves two purposes: filter protection and a separate compartment for the ECU
I know you say making boxes isn't hard, but it sounds hard to me haha.
spotcruiser
Geezer
I can give you tips on building a box(es) (I lost the photos of building mine with failure of a harddrive). It would be really easy with a sheet metal brake, but you don't need one. I just use a grinder to score the metal where I want the bends and then weld it up after bending. It's easy with 16 gauge steel. I didn't have a TIG back then, but these days I'd probably do it in aluminum to save weight.
Curtice
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- #269
Awesome, I’ll hit you up when I’m ready.
I actually think I might do the best of both worlds. I think I can mount the ECU in the cab under the glove box, but up against the firewall, so access for trouble shooting is easy from the engine bay. I would still need to build some sort of box to go around it.
Anyway, I’ll mess with it more tomorrow.
I actually think I might do the best of both worlds. I think I can mount the ECU in the cab under the glove box, but up against the firewall, so access for trouble shooting is easy from the engine bay. I would still need to build some sort of box to go around it.
Anyway, I’ll mess with it more tomorrow.
Curtice
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- #270
So I decided I liked that last idea best - to mount the ECU in cab, but access to the wiring and ports from the engine bay. Since the blower will not be there and I will have a block off plate installed, I can create a way to access it through that area. To mount it flush with the bottom of the glove box required me to cut a notch out of heater blower opening, so went ahead and did that (need to clean it up still):
And this is how it will mount inside...I need to figure out still how to attach it. I will probably create some small brackets, but could make a little shelf or maybe use some metal straps.
I'll need to figure out and build something for the engine bay side to protect the wires, but allow me access when needed. I'm thinking some sort of removable box/cover that uses the existing bolts. Got my son working on that problem - he likes that kind of thing.
Also today cut the vents for the AC/Heater, two round ones on the sides and two rectangular ones in the middle surrounding the radio:
Because of these vents, had to relocate the lights and fog light switches. Just moved them down and made sure they wouldn't interfere with the dome light switch:
And this is how it will mount inside...I need to figure out still how to attach it. I will probably create some small brackets, but could make a little shelf or maybe use some metal straps.
I'll need to figure out and build something for the engine bay side to protect the wires, but allow me access when needed. I'm thinking some sort of removable box/cover that uses the existing bolts. Got my son working on that problem - he likes that kind of thing.
Also today cut the vents for the AC/Heater, two round ones on the sides and two rectangular ones in the middle surrounding the radio:
Because of these vents, had to relocate the lights and fog light switches. Just moved them down and made sure they wouldn't interfere with the dome light switch:
Curtice
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- #271
Got a few things done today. Created a mounting bracket for the ECU under the glove box. Trying to decide if I should bolt it or weld it on. I’d rather bolt it, so it is removable, but that will make it so that the bolts/nuts stick up inside the glove box. I think I’m ok with that...will probably just create a new floor of the glove box.
Then got to work on some more body stuff. While my door gaps were ok, the rounded portion of the rocker didn’t look right as the curve of the rocker didn’t match the curve of the door. Additionally, the door was not sitting flush no matter that we tried. So did some work with the cutoff wheel and welder to create the right surface.
Then finished off with some filler and sanding along the quarter panel into the rocker. All smooth as silk now and looking great. I’m super pleased.
Side note, I love the smell of body filler, haha. I’m using Evercoat Rage Ultra on the recommendation of a friend. Was great. Sanded well, not too hard to work with.
I’m liking this part of body work, as it signals getting closer to paint. Lots more work here, but good progress.
Then got to work on some more body stuff. While my door gaps were ok, the rounded portion of the rocker didn’t look right as the curve of the rocker didn’t match the curve of the door. Additionally, the door was not sitting flush no matter that we tried. So did some work with the cutoff wheel and welder to create the right surface.
Then finished off with some filler and sanding along the quarter panel into the rocker. All smooth as silk now and looking great. I’m super pleased.
Side note, I love the smell of body filler, haha. I’m using Evercoat Rage Ultra on the recommendation of a friend. Was great. Sanded well, not too hard to work with.
I’m liking this part of body work, as it signals getting closer to paint. Lots more work here, but good progress.
Curtice
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- #272
Slow and steady. I've said it before, but so many little things that it seems like for everything I finish, I find 5 more things I realize I need to do. Anyway, some extra work since I decided to install the AC unit.
First, in order to fit the AC compressor, I needed to relocate the battery tray. Considered several options, but ultimately ended up purchasing a V8 conversion bracket from BTB (FJ40 FJ45 Battery Tray Assembly Frame Mount 1958, 1959, 1960, 1961, 1962, 1963, 1964, 1965, 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984 - BTB Products - Land Cruiser Restoration and Parts - https://btbprod.com/product/battery-tray-assembly-toy-fj40-land-cruiser-frame-mount/) and modifying it for my purpose. It is designed to move the battery over the front shock tower, but I want to keep my washer and overflow bottle there. So I drilled the holes out in it to mount to the frame underneath the brake line hard to soft line connection point. Also required some bending since the geometry here is a bit different that where it was designed for.
The result is that the tray will fit perfectly behind the compressor, but still leave room for the charcoal canister mount in the stock location.
As for the condenser, been working on fitting that. This 3FE sits a bit more forward I think for some reason, and my fan was real close to the radiator. So my solution was to move the radiator support bracket forward. I did that to create the necessary room. Well, when I then decided to do AC, I realized there was no room for the condenser now between the radiator and bib. So I moved the radiator back partway and luckily found the sweet spot where the fan is far enough that I am comfortable and there is room for the condenser. phew.
Additionally, did a bit more body work today. The aftermarket tub I bought had some sparsely spot welded seams in the rear quarter. I worried about this being a rust risk, so welded up the seam on both sides.
First, in order to fit the AC compressor, I needed to relocate the battery tray. Considered several options, but ultimately ended up purchasing a V8 conversion bracket from BTB (FJ40 FJ45 Battery Tray Assembly Frame Mount 1958, 1959, 1960, 1961, 1962, 1963, 1964, 1965, 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984 - BTB Products - Land Cruiser Restoration and Parts - https://btbprod.com/product/battery-tray-assembly-toy-fj40-land-cruiser-frame-mount/) and modifying it for my purpose. It is designed to move the battery over the front shock tower, but I want to keep my washer and overflow bottle there. So I drilled the holes out in it to mount to the frame underneath the brake line hard to soft line connection point. Also required some bending since the geometry here is a bit different that where it was designed for.
The result is that the tray will fit perfectly behind the compressor, but still leave room for the charcoal canister mount in the stock location.
As for the condenser, been working on fitting that. This 3FE sits a bit more forward I think for some reason, and my fan was real close to the radiator. So my solution was to move the radiator support bracket forward. I did that to create the necessary room. Well, when I then decided to do AC, I realized there was no room for the condenser now between the radiator and bib. So I moved the radiator back partway and luckily found the sweet spot where the fan is far enough that I am comfortable and there is room for the condenser. phew.
Additionally, did a bit more body work today. The aftermarket tub I bought had some sparsely spot welded seams in the rear quarter. I worried about this being a rust risk, so welded up the seam on both sides.
Curtice
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- #273
Spent most of today fitting the evaporator. The unit is the Old Air 2100. Man will this be tight. It fits, but the ducting is gonna be sketchy. First, a couple pics showing how it fits. The unit itself seems to fit decently. The mounting brackets they provided wouldn't work however as they were much too long to work in the location needed. I considered modifying the brackets, but at that point, decided just to bolt it directly to the firewall. The unit has 3 mounting points offset to one side. So just lined it up, marked, measured, and drilled. This is how it ended up:
Here is how it is mounted from the engine bay view, with a support backing plate:
It feels solid and the unit isn't very heavy, so I feel good that it will work. There are a couple captive nuts that I probably need to grind down a bit to make it sit more flush. Gonna mess with that this week.
Now for the sketchy tightness. The ducting attaches and comes out right behind the radio location. Impossible to work with a full radio mounted there. Here is a closup so you can see what I mean:
So I fretted for a bit. But, I lucked out again. I purchased a Retrosound radio to mount in the stock location. Fortunately, as I was figuring out what to do about this, I read on the their website that they offer a cable extension kit just for this purpose. So basically, you mount the radio body wherever you want, and only the face and nobs get mounted in the dash. Pretty cool and lucky for me.
But even without the radio there, it is going to be tight. I did a test fit and was able to attach and route the ducting, but with four duct hoses and two more defrost ducts, plus all the wiring back there...eek. Fingers crossed. For now, I'm going to try to route all the ductwork at least, since I believe that will take up the most space and be the most tricky.
Lastly, a shot of the body as I am slowly continuing body work.
Here is how it is mounted from the engine bay view, with a support backing plate:
It feels solid and the unit isn't very heavy, so I feel good that it will work. There are a couple captive nuts that I probably need to grind down a bit to make it sit more flush. Gonna mess with that this week.
Now for the sketchy tightness. The ducting attaches and comes out right behind the radio location. Impossible to work with a full radio mounted there. Here is a closup so you can see what I mean:
So I fretted for a bit. But, I lucked out again. I purchased a Retrosound radio to mount in the stock location. Fortunately, as I was figuring out what to do about this, I read on the their website that they offer a cable extension kit just for this purpose. So basically, you mount the radio body wherever you want, and only the face and nobs get mounted in the dash. Pretty cool and lucky for me.
But even without the radio there, it is going to be tight. I did a test fit and was able to attach and route the ducting, but with four duct hoses and two more defrost ducts, plus all the wiring back there...eek. Fingers crossed. For now, I'm going to try to route all the ductwork at least, since I believe that will take up the most space and be the most tricky.
Lastly, a shot of the body as I am slowly continuing body work.
Curtice
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- #274
Ducting will fit with the cool radio extension thing. I routed and cut the ducting, then installed the radio just to be sure. Forgot to take pictures though before I pulled it all out. It will be tight, but I feel much better. After messing with all of that, I didn't like how the Retrosound radio [face] would fit in the stock opening...just wasn't quite right and I was struggling to get it to look good and set right. The face plate is *almost* the exact size as the opening, so there were minor gaps around it. So decided to cut a weld in panel to fit this radio exactly:
Then all welded up (needs some clean up still) and the radio fitting:
On a different subject, in some free time lately, i've been starting to think about all the wiring that needs to be done. I've been assembling all the info I can find on how to wire a 3FE, and just general clean up and restore of the old wiring harnesses and connections. As I prepare for that, I had a buddy who owns a printing office, print me some gigantic wiring diagrams to hang on the wall of my shop, for easy reference and note taking. These are really big! I have a wiring diagram for a 1992 3FE, which is my engine, and for the 1978 FJ40. The 3FE diagram is almost 8 feet long, the 40 diagram is about 6 feet.
Then all welded up (needs some clean up still) and the radio fitting:
On a different subject, in some free time lately, i've been starting to think about all the wiring that needs to be done. I've been assembling all the info I can find on how to wire a 3FE, and just general clean up and restore of the old wiring harnesses and connections. As I prepare for that, I had a buddy who owns a printing office, print me some gigantic wiring diagrams to hang on the wall of my shop, for easy reference and note taking. These are really big! I have a wiring diagram for a 1992 3FE, which is my engine, and for the 1978 FJ40. The 3FE diagram is almost 8 feet long, the 40 diagram is about 6 feet.
After tearing down, I realized that my balls were really pitted. Plus there was a pretty nice groove, I assume from the cruiser sitting for years without moving before I bought it. Guess I didn't take a before picture. But I saw the JB Weld trick that others have done to fill in the pits and groove, so decided to do that.
View attachment 2303350
Let it dry a couple of days and sanded it off. Turned out real well and feels much smoother. Its probably not perfect, but it'll do I hope.
View attachment 2303351
So got to painting and rebuilding the components. Rebuild kit from Cruiser Outfitters
View attachment 2303352View attachment 2303353View attachment 2303354
Was the axle shaft/birf really bone dry coming out? It doesn't look like there's a spec of grease on the pic of your son removing it.
Love those big print outs. Did that for my wiring and drew the final all out on a big sheet of cardboard so I would have it for reference. Only thing is I need to get that all tidied up and into a PDF some how? Or maybe CAD?
Curtice
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- #280
I for sure plan to do something like this. On my last engine swap I didn’t take good notes on the wiring and it comes back to haunt me every time I need to know what is going on.
This build will be even more custom wiring, so I need to make sure I have a complete wiring diagram of everything I do.
I’ll probably just create it in Visio, since I get that for work. There are better tools, but I can probably make that work. Or just draw it out by hand and take a high res picture.
