Builds 78 body off restore (cruiser #2)

[Curtice]

Curtice,
Where did you get those roll bar support brackets? I could use a couple pair. Nice job by the way! Keep it going and you will be ridin’ in no time...?

Thanks.

Picked them up from Real Steel Cruiser parts a month or so ago. wheel well supports.

 

[Curtice]

We got some to use when welding up my son’s bumper. Welded through just fine (a bit sooty) but we haven’t had much wet weather since completing the project, so I can’t testify as to it’s protective efficacy during winter weather.

Thanks, i'll give it a go. I assume weld through means exactly what it says. I've read a couple places that say you should clean the exact spot first, but read other places that say its made to pool into the weld puddle.

 

[Curtice]

Some updates. Things are sloooooooow going with the body fitting work.

Removed the roll bar captive nuts I had welded in, sprayed the support channels and wheel well with weld through primer, and welded them on. Then welded the captive nuts on (again). Turned out ok...maybe not the best idea to hone my welding skills directly on the cruiser, but I am learning.

Also started some patch work on rusted out areas. An example on the upper floor pan. Bending in shape for the rib seemed to fit ok. Need to grind things down still.

Now, with the slightly extra wide gap for the tailgate space that I mentioned earlier. I really really really don't want to cut the whole tub in half to fix it. I received my Aqualu tailgate, and it actually seems to fit pretty well, it must be build slightly wider.

It's the lift hatch that is the problem. As you can see above, with the header installed, the sides are very slightly angled down toward the tub, such that the gap between the hatch and the sides widens as it goes down (interestingly, the tailgate is about 1/2" wider than the hatch). As you can see in the close up below, I think this gap is too big to deal with:

So now I am trying to figure out the solution. With the header attached properly, I know the cap will fit right as is, and the tailgate is doable. So I'm thinking I will focus on the hatch. I'm wondering if it is possible to modify the hatch - widen it at the bottom and taper up, so that it lines up with the sides. It is so slight that I don't think this will ever be noticeable, but will close properly. I realize I may have some latch issues with this plan I would have to deal with.

Anyway, so I have a couple friends that might be able to help with that, since it is beyond my capabilities.

As for the rest of the fitment, here is where it sits now. Nothing welded up yet, but getting closer. I need to put on all of the nose pieces, hood, fenders, etc.

 

[fourlow&go]

Wow Curtice, you've been busy! It's looking great!
From the pics it looks like the bottom of the DS of the top needs to move in board on the rail. Maybe oval some of the bolt holes and ratch strap it over to see if closes the gap on the hatch? Hard to see for sure in the pics but it looks like both sides of the top over hang the quarter's just a bit.

 

[Curtice]

Thanks David. I was able to adjust it, but only ever so slightly. Here is a more straight on shot with it as far as it will go (assuming this is what you were taking about).

 

[fourlow&go]

The gasket should just seal that gap.

 

[Curtice]

The gasket should just seal that gap.

you mean this gap between the hatch and the side? I just ordered the weatjerstrip, so if you are right I will be super happy, but it seems like it’s too big...

 

[Curtice]

So tested the weatherstrip and I think it works! As you said. Now to decide if my OCD can handle the gap since it widens as it gets lower.

And put all the panels on to make sure everything lines up. All body mounts are on and bolted down, all panels fit and are level. Next step is to start bolting and welding the tub, rockers, floor, and cowl together.

 

[Curtice]

It’s fun seeing it actually look like a cruiser. Wanted to post a few smaller things I’ve been working on. First, I got some new OEM fenders, but the cut out on the drivers side was too small to fit the steering gearbox. So I removed the splash guard, cut the [new!] fender to make the opening wider, and repositioned/re-welded the splash guard back on.

Before (while cutting out spot welds):

Test fitting after removing the splash guard and widening the cut out for the gear box by about 4 inches (and my rudimentary flange I bent on the cut, using vise grips :0 )

And the after, fits perfectly:

 

[Curtice]

Also transmission rebuild is done. Inserted the shift lever and everything shifts and appears to work (which always surprises me when stuff I build actually works)

 

[Curtice]

Some work on my B pillars. I cut one of them off too short, so had to weld a spacer piece in so that it would meet up with the rocker panel at the right spot.

before:

After:

Then drilled holes in the tub flange so I could bolt it in at the right spot

 

[Curtice]

finally, put the support braces in behind the tub flange to B pillar.

After that was done, finally got to work welding the tub together. Not done yet, but got the rockers welded to the cowl and the B pillars. Have some cleanup work to do, but happy to have the full tub not have to be ratchet strapped together.

A problem I keep having (as I am learning how to weld and grind) is that when I grind down my welds, I accidentally end up grinding the sheet metal around the weld too thin. This creates little holes and weak spots. You can see in the middle picture above where the rocker meets the cowl. So I need to figure out how to fix that.

 

[Curtice]

So wanted to give a small update. Been a rough month in terms of getting time to work on the cruiser project. Been out of town on a couple of trips, plus finally decided that I'd put off work on my property for too long, helped two friends fix their cars replacing a radiator and an alternator, and finally helping my son clean all of the mice houses out of his car . So been spending time doing other things that need to get done. However, been tinkering a bit when I can.

Been spending some time doing little tiny stuff that needs to get done. Decided where to put the 3FE ECU and how I am going to route the wires. Had a drill a new hole in the firewall for the ECU wiring loom. At the same time, labeled all the holes on my firewall. I think I have it right.

Also cut a hole for my 3FE CEL. I will be using an early model indicator light for this.

Also, figured out my gas pedal (more on the next post) and throttle cable routing. Cut a new hole for this.

 

[Curtice]

For the gas pedal, on my other 3FE FJ40, I just used an older model pedal and made it fit. On this one, I wanted to keep existing mounting brackets, etc. So I took an older model pedal and cut off the top portion for which the 3FE throttle cable can hook in. I then cut the FJ40 pedal before the bend. Lined up how they should fit together and then welded. Turned out well I think for my limited skills.

Starting point

Fitting it up

Welding

Test fit with the throttle cable. Made a minor adjustment as you can see it isn't quite centered.

And the final product

 

[Curtice]

Then got to some powdercoating. I think i've said it already, but PC is my favorite thing to do when working on this. It is so satisfying and easy.

PC the gas pedal and bracket, along with the glove box door

Transfer case cone cover

Exhaust manifold:

And exhaust heat shields

 

[Curtice]

Lastly, been working on the tcase rebuild. Slow going...cleaning the crap off of it took fooooooooorever. But am now organize and ready to paint the external parts and put together.

 

[Curtice]

Transfer case is done, minus the transmission connection parts.

 

[Curtice]

Has anyone ever disassembled these seat brackets? I want to so I can properly powder coat. But there are some parts riveted, pins, etc. I thought maybe grinding out the rivers and using a shoulder bolt or something to put back together. Wondering if anyone has done something here.

 

[spotcruiser]

I think Aatlas1x used to have a kit for that, but he's long gone. SOR continued selling a lot of his stuff, but it looks like their site is down at the moment. Try there when the site is back up.

Correction: I see now that only the hinge latch portion was available. Sorry.

 

[Curtice]

Hi all - been quite a while since I’ve updated. Metal work, drilling holes, welding captive nuts, fitting all the miscellaneous panels, etc has just taken foooooorever. So many little things like fuel door latch, jack holder nuts, tool bag, plus had to figure how and where to map the 3FE ECU and several other things like that. Then had to repair rust on many panels. But finally done with all that and ready to start prep work for paint.

Here are some pics of the progress:

Mounting switch panel in place of the ash tray

ECU in the glove box - loom will come out and through a new hole in the firewall

Other body update pics