I have the same wheel. What are you having Craft do?
Builds 78 body off restore (cruiser #2)
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Curtice
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- #302
This wheel actually in pretty good shape. But I like a thicker wheel and want a nice restored one, so having them add padding and leather wrap. I also sent in the middle horn button...not sure what they can do there, just asked that they make sure it all matches
Post photos when you get it back. I want to use mine but the family is adamant that I use the original.This wheel actually in pretty good shape. But I like a thicker wheel and want a nice restored one, so having them add padding and leather wrap. I also sent in the middle horn button...not sure what they can do there, just asked that they make sure it all matches
Cruiser is looking great like the liner its turning out really nice...
Curtice
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Ok some updates. Been making progress on the engine assembly and body work / painting.
First, the engine. Have been test fitting all the bolt on’s, figuring out all water hoses and vacuum lines, and other misc stuff.
Here are some general engine pictures on where it is now. Everything is dusty and many things are not bolted tightly at this point. But it’s looking complete.
First, the engine. Have been test fitting all the bolt on’s, figuring out all water hoses and vacuum lines, and other misc stuff.
Here are some general engine pictures on where it is now. Everything is dusty and many things are not bolted tightly at this point. But it’s looking complete.
Curtice
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Also been working on the fuel lines. I am using a stock 3FE fuel filter. But since I am putting an in tank fuel pump in the 40 tank, needed to make a custom fuel line set up. I designed up what I thought I needed and ordered pre-made
fuel hoses from AN Plumbing and all the necessary connection fittings.
Fuel lines (supply and return) from the tank will go through a bulkhead fitting in the center floor (under the console where stick fuel lines go). From there, I am routing them over to the frame, inside the frame rail up to the engine bay, and out.
I put some edge protectors on the frame rail holes to minimize rubbing.
Hoses
and exiting the frame in the engine bay:
Return line from the fuel rail is just a 5/16 hose clamped to the hard line and in the other end, a hose barb AN -6 fitting to connect to the braided hose.
Supply line coming to the filter needs a banjo bolt. I purchased a 12mm banjo AN fitting to use with the stock 3FE bolt:
I mounted the fuel filter into the battery tray support bracket. The fuel line coming out of the filter and going to the fuel rail is all stock.
Full setup. The fuel line was resting against the brake line. I wasn’t sure if that was bad or not (rubbing or other issues), so I just clamped a piece of hose over the brake line to protect it. I’ll get some hose separators for the fuel lines to keep them organized and solid.
fuel hoses from AN Plumbing and all the necessary connection fittings.
Fuel lines (supply and return) from the tank will go through a bulkhead fitting in the center floor (under the console where stick fuel lines go). From there, I am routing them over to the frame, inside the frame rail up to the engine bay, and out.
I put some edge protectors on the frame rail holes to minimize rubbing.
Hoses
and exiting the frame in the engine bay:
Return line from the fuel rail is just a 5/16 hose clamped to the hard line and in the other end, a hose barb AN -6 fitting to connect to the braided hose.
Supply line coming to the filter needs a banjo bolt. I purchased a 12mm banjo AN fitting to use with the stock 3FE bolt:
I mounted the fuel filter into the battery tray support bracket. The fuel line coming out of the filter and going to the fuel rail is all stock.
Full setup. The fuel line was resting against the brake line. I wasn’t sure if that was bad or not (rubbing or other issues), so I just clamped a piece of hose over the brake line to protect it. I’ll get some hose separators for the fuel lines to keep them organized and solid.
Curtice
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- #308
A few other engine things.
New fuel pressure regulator (aftermarket from rock auto since OEM is disco) and fuel damper (OEM):
Cold start injector line installed:
Given some experiences with my other 3FE, I wanted to have a fuel pressure gauge. Dakota Digital has a sender for this, so I installed at the cold start injector. LC Engineering sells an adapter fitting to replace the stock banjo bolt bolt with one that accepts a sender. It’s made for the 22RE, but works on the 3FE.
here is the fitting and how it installs:
And here is the Dakota Digital sender installed:
I am slightly worried it might be in the way when I get the brake master cylinder mounted. Crossing fingers for now.
In order to mount the custom air intake, I repurposed the smog pump support bar since it isn’t needed there. It was a perfect fit to bolt behind the heater line and to the MAF. The full intake tube and structure is solid. I’m glad that worked out.
New fuel pressure regulator (aftermarket from rock auto since OEM is disco) and fuel damper (OEM):
Cold start injector line installed:
Given some experiences with my other 3FE, I wanted to have a fuel pressure gauge. Dakota Digital has a sender for this, so I installed at the cold start injector. LC Engineering sells an adapter fitting to replace the stock banjo bolt bolt with one that accepts a sender. It’s made for the 22RE, but works on the 3FE.
here is the fitting and how it installs:
And here is the Dakota Digital sender installed:
I am slightly worried it might be in the way when I get the brake master cylinder mounted. Crossing fingers for now.
In order to mount the custom air intake, I repurposed the smog pump support bar since it isn’t needed there. It was a perfect fit to bolt behind the heater line and to the MAF. The full intake tube and structure is solid. I’m glad that worked out.
Curtice
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- #309
Some notes on the cooling system. Yes I plated my fan shroud. I modified a 40 shroud to fit with the slightly lower and less centered 3FE fan. Once it fit, I sent for plating and it turned out very nice. Here is a pic (with some other plated parts):
Mounted on the radiator:
And fit with the fan. It’s slightly close, but I think it will be ok. I’m not sure how much gap there is between the fan and shroud in a stock setup.
I also powder coated the hard pipe that runs under the crank pulley to the oil cooler.
And got it installed with the hose:
Mounted on the radiator:
And fit with the fan. It’s slightly close, but I think it will be ok. I’m not sure how much gap there is between the fan and shroud in a stock setup.
I also powder coated the hard pipe that runs under the crank pulley to the oil cooler.
And got it installed with the hose:
Curtice
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And a few other engine related odds and ends.
The AC belt has an idler pulley. It has a bolt through it and a “dust cover” that is NLA. My dust cover is messed up and if I install it, the pulley will not rotate. If I mount the pulley without the dust cover, it is fine. So that is what I did but if anyone reading this thinks bad idea, let me know
I’m still working through some desmog details and what is needed and what isn’t. Have had some questions on the BVSV valve that mounts in the T-housing.
From what I gather, the two vacuum lines are for controlling the check valve for the charcoal canister and the other is EGR related. Since I won’t have EGR, I capped the top fitting and am running a vacuum line from the bottom fitting - this will go to that check valve since I do plan to run a charcoal canister still. The vacuum hose runs by the distributor and I will run it alongside the fuel return line with a hose separator. You can see it here:
Also installed a new reverse light switch in the transmission:
Last item is a question. I’m trying to figure out the brake booster vacuum hose. This picture is from my other 3FE. It is two hoses with some sort of fitting connecting them. I don’t know what I need for my new engine. Can I just run a hose from the booster to the intake? Or do I need whatever that middle fitting thing is?
The AC belt has an idler pulley. It has a bolt through it and a “dust cover” that is NLA. My dust cover is messed up and if I install it, the pulley will not rotate. If I mount the pulley without the dust cover, it is fine. So that is what I did but if anyone reading this thinks bad idea, let me know
I’m still working through some desmog details and what is needed and what isn’t. Have had some questions on the BVSV valve that mounts in the T-housing.
From what I gather, the two vacuum lines are for controlling the check valve for the charcoal canister and the other is EGR related. Since I won’t have EGR, I capped the top fitting and am running a vacuum line from the bottom fitting - this will go to that check valve since I do plan to run a charcoal canister still. The vacuum hose runs by the distributor and I will run it alongside the fuel return line with a hose separator. You can see it here:
Also installed a new reverse light switch in the transmission:
Last item is a question. I’m trying to figure out the brake booster vacuum hose. This picture is from my other 3FE. It is two hoses with some sort of fitting connecting them. I don’t know what I need for my new engine. Can I just run a hose from the booster to the intake? Or do I need whatever that middle fitting thing is?
spotcruiser
Geezer
Honestly, that part in the middle of the brake booster vacuum line in the last photo looks like a pcv valve. There isn't typically anything in the vacuum line to the booster.
Curtice
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Ok cool. Thanks much. if there isn't typically anything there, i'll probably just run a vacuum line the appropriate size. That pcv valve or whatever it is was on my other engine, but all of the diagrams and everything I look at doesn't have it that I can see, and certainly any type of valve.
Nice workmanship. Did you have the PS pump reservoir coated? The fan shroud on May of 1980 40 was cadmium coated originally also. Besides the nice work....your photos are excellent.
Stupid question. Is the inside coated or did they leave the cap on during the process?Thank you! The PS reservoir is Cad plated as well.
Did you get your steering wheel back yet?
Curtice
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I think the inside is coated too. I wondered about that. I think I asked them at the time and they said it shouldn’t be a problem, iirc. hopefully it won’t cause me problems.
No, but I talked to them about two weeks ago and they said it would take two weeks or so. So I expect to hear back any day.
Curtice
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And some body work updates. I'm doing all the prep work and priming and sanding in my shop. But will take it down to a friends body shop to use his paint booth for the paint, so I can make sure to do that part in a professional and controlled environment. Body work is crazy. I'll spend 40 hours working on it and it looks like no progress. But prime, sand, prime sand....anyway, I think the body is finally finally ready for paint (I've said that like 3 times on this thread already). Need to seam seal, then hopefully ready to go. Also trying to get the other panels ready for paint, but each piece has some imperfections that need to be worked on. Here are some pics now:
Curtice
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@tstepp920 got the steering wheel back. It is super nice...I love the padding they added to the grip. One thing I wished I would have done was a bit different color for the leather stitching. Would have added some nice accent. But overall pleased. They do nice work.
Planning (finally) to paint this weekend. So furiously scrambling to finish wet sanding the primer. I’ll be able to paint all the body panels except for the doors and top.
And...started with this mess...I think I’m going to start a separate wiring thread. So many questions...
And got my big wiring diagrams on the wall. These are going to be very handy.
Planning (finally) to paint this weekend. So furiously scrambling to finish wet sanding the primer. I’ll be able to paint all the body panels except for the doors and top.
And...started with this mess...I think I’m going to start a separate wiring thread. So many questions...
And got my big wiring diagrams on the wall. These are going to be very handy.
Curtice
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Painting tomorrow (finally). Since today was a super nice day in Seattle, took work off, pulled the tub outside and did a final round of sanding - wet sanded with 600 grit. Silky smooth. I think I got sunburned, but it was so nice to work outside.
Everything ready to go. Don’t have all the body panels ready, but enough to get it drivable...whenever that will be.
