Builds 78 body off restore (cruiser #2) (1 Viewer)

tstepp920 · Jan 27, 2021

Curtice said:
Ducting will fit with the cool radio extension thing. I routed and cut the ducting, then installed the radio just to be sure. Forgot to take pictures though before I pulled it all out. It will be tight, but I feel much better. After messing with all of that, I didn't like how the Retrosound radio [face] would fit in the stock opening...just wasn't quite right and I was struggling to get it to look good and set right. The face plate is *almost* the exact size as the opening, so there were minor gaps around it. So decided to cut a weld in panel to fit this radio exactly:

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Then all welded up (needs some clean up still) and the radio fitting:
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On a different subject, in some free time lately, i've been starting to think about all the wiring that needs to be done. I've been assembling all the info I can find on how to wire a 3FE, and just general clean up and restore of the old wiring harnesses and connections. As I prepare for that, I had a buddy who owns a printing office, print me some gigantic wiring diagrams to hang on the wall of my shop, for easy reference and note taking. These are really big! I have a wiring diagram for a 1992 3FE, which is my engine, and for the 1978 FJ40. The 3FE diagram is almost 8 feet long, the 40 diagram is about 6 feet.

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Where do I’d you get the file in a downloadable format

Curtice · Jan 27, 2021

I spent 12 hours Saturday body filling and sanding. Arms were dead by the end of the day, but think I’m in a good spot and about ready to paint the full tub (and all the fun stuff like seam seal, etc. that goes along with that). Gonna have my body shop friend come do some quality control checks to make sure. He will likely find some flaws. But I’m pretty pleased how it turned out.

Curtice · Jan 27, 2021

tstepp920 said:
Where do I’d you get the file in a downloadable format

The 78 diagram I got on this site, or maybe @Coolerman site. For the 92 engine control diagram, I paid the $20 for a two day membership to the Toyota Tech Info site. It took a few hours (they make you download one page at a time), but I downloaded the full 1992 3FE relevant pages from the manual, along with all relevant diagrams. In that, it included hi res PDFs for the wiring. It was in 4 separate pages, I just combined them into in PDF for print. If you or anyone wants them, happy to send.

tstepp920 · Jan 27, 2021

Curtice said:
The 78 diagram I got on this site, or maybe @Coolerman site. For the 92 engine control diagram, I paid the $20 for a two day membership to the Toyota Tech Info site. It took a few hours (they make you download one page at a time), but I downloaded the full 1992 3FE relevant pages from the manual, along with all relevant diagrams. In that, it included hi res PDFs for the wiring. It was in 4 separate pages, I just combined them into in PDF for print. If you or anyone wants them, happy to send.

I’m going to see it I can find one for a 1980 40 series

Curtice · Jan 27, 2021

tstepp920 said:
I’m going to see it I can find one for a 1980 40 series

The TIS website didn't have stuff that went back that far. I think 1990 was the oldest I found on that site. Just FYI so you don't waste $20 if you were planning on that. I might have 1980 diagram around somewhere from my other build several years ago. I'll check. But I think the 78 is pretty close, iirc.

Curtice · Feb 1, 2021

A bit of work over the weekend. First, even more glazing and sanding. This is going to be the straightest cruiser ever haha. My arms are about done with it though.

After getting sick of sanding, decided to do something else, so pc’d the rest of my 4wd shifter parts and got them installed.

Curtice · Feb 1, 2021

Also wanted to make sure my Tuffy console would fit. Since I lined up the seats and drilled all new holes for the mounting brackets, I was worried the tuffy mounting wouldn't line up properly. Fortunately, it did. However, I ran into another problem. Earlier in my thread, I show how I am mounting my drivers seat raised 2 inches. Well, the driver seat has a big metal tab sticking out towards the console...not sure why it is there but probably something to do with the seat sliding. Anyway, normally, this would be below the console, but because my seat is higher up, it got in the way and I couldn't mount the console properly:

My first thought was to raise the whole console up too so it mounted above that tab. But I didn't like that idea because I liked the feel of the console a bit lower, plus it would be super high for the passenger. So I decided to just cut a hole in it. I had to cut a hole long enough for the tab to slide with the seat. But it seems to work well. I need to find something to line the hole with to keep things from falling out (hole isn't that big, but in case) - i'm thinking some sort of bristle dust guard or something.

Top view looking down with the tab inside the console:

And final mounting:

Lastly, decided on the color. I've been wanting to do Cadet Blue, but that is a hard color to come by. I saw a post elsewhere on here where someone used Arles Blue, a mid 90's Land Rover color. I really liked that, so ordered a sample and test sprayed it on a piece of metal my son crafted to look like a cruiser tub

I really like it this color!

Curtice · Feb 10, 2021

So this weekend I bought a brand new OEM fuel tank...and promptly cut a big hole in it

.

I’m waiting on paint supplies now that body work is done on the tub, so decided to get to work on the in-tank fuel pump install.

Huge shout out to @FJ60Cam with Mosley Motors. I purchased the pump from him and just gives excellent service in continuing to answer my questions. (Also had him restore my alternator and it is fantastic).

First drilled the hole with a hole saw. I chose here on the tank based on Cameron recommendation and also because the pump can reach down to the lowest part of the tank. It’s in a spot that hits the lowest part, is just out of the way of the sender, and between the baffles.

Next marked and drilled the mounting screw holes, then installed the mounting ring on the inside of the tank, and tack welded it on.

After some clean up work, hole is ready to mount and here is a picture of the full pump assembly:

Test install and mounting:

And here is a picture from the sender hole showing how it fits inside the tank.

My one concern is noise in the cab from the pump. I’ve been told it isn’t too loud, but I’m thinking of coating the outside of the tank with Lizard Skin sound deadener. Has anyone done that and do you think would be a good idea or not for some reason?

-MaTTi- · Feb 10, 2021

What fuel pump? DeatschWerks is silent.

Curtice · Feb 10, 2021

Its a Wahlbro. Cameron said it is quiet in his installs, so I am not too worried. Just thought I'd like to take extra precaution. I have an external Aeromotive pump on on my other 40 and it gets ridiculously loud, particularly in the heat when it is working hard (I have some fuel venting issues on that cruiser I need to fix).

-MaTTi- · Feb 10, 2021

DW is quierter than Walbro. So, if it’s too noisy, that would be alternative one (DW200).

macdaddy59 · Feb 10, 2021

Can you please give some dimensions of where the hole was cut exactly so I can position mine correctly before I make the cut.

Curtice · Feb 10, 2021

For sure. I'll go out and take some measurements and pictures for you later today.

FJ60Cam · Feb 10, 2021

macdaddy59 said:
Can you please give some dimensions of where the hole was cut exactly so I can position mine correctly before I make the cut.

Here’s where we put them, though this was a little too close to the baffle & we had to trim a hair off the side of the split ring. This spot allowed seat clearance above & cleared the sender.

FJ60Cam · Feb 10, 2021

These pumps are fairly quiet and only have a low vibrational noise. You can hear them prime before the engine is running, but is masked once it’s running. No whining or screaming.

These usually go in tanks outside the cab, where it’s less of a concern. I like to put some Noico or similar sound deadening on the big tank panels. It’s also good to keep the assembly at least 1/4” or so off the bottom for noise transmission & fuel flow.

macdaddy59 · Feb 10, 2021

Super helpful and much appreciated. Many thanks.

Curtice · Feb 10, 2021

FJ60Cam said:
It’s also good to keep the assembly at least 1/4” or so off the bottom for noise transmission & fuel flow.

Mine is hopefully about that far off the bottom. I know I could lower the pump all the way in without the thick gasket in place, so I at least have that amount of space, which is probably about 1/8". Hopefully that will be good.

Don't know what Noico is, I'll look it up. I was thinking of Lizard Skin because I know I will have extra from doing the tub. So thought why not put it on the tank.

Curtice · Feb 10, 2021

macdaddy59 said:
Super helpful and much appreciated. Many thanks.

I put my hole just slight to the right and slightly up from that one - probably just a few mm each direction. There really isn't a wide area to move it around in there. I went a bit over so I would make sure I didn't run into the baffle. I am a bit worried I am not exactly where Cameron put his and that it will interfere with the bottom of the seat. But if that is the case, I figure I will just put some small seat spacers in.

Curtice · Feb 25, 2021

Some updates. Back to the body this week, and finally got to start painting.

But first, a couple other things. Cleaned , painted, and mounted exhaust manifold pipes.