Builds 76 FJ40 in South Texas (1 Viewer)

[South Texas 97]

Just received the best Christmas present ever, a 76 FJ40 soft top. Bought it a few months back but was sitting in Seattle until the right time to ship it down to Texas.

looks pretty here next to the 97 Series 80, and a real baby in terms of miles, the 80 has 350k miles, and the FJ40 has 71k, if the odometer is to be believed.
The cold hard light of day shows a reasonable body and frame condition. The wiring is a mess, and the Holly carb needs a good tune up.
Made some space in the garage, and started making lists of things to do/fix. It is a long list and getting longer.

Found a used sandblasting cabinet, although my compressor is small, we will make it work.
Opening the hood and looking at the wiring gave me the shakes, so thought I would start with something simple.

 

[South Texas 97]

Something simple was the license plate and taillights, everything except the reverse lights were working.
the moment I touched to license plate lights the wire disintegrated in my hands.

some rust but not too bad. Throw it in the sandblasting cabinet.

used some rust reformer and a coat of sandable primer.
next was the tail lights

that wiring is a mess, a lot of temporary repairs that worked, a rainbow of colors and sizes.

the lenses look to be original, but had some cracks, so used some superglue and baking soda to repair and rebuild a missing part of the reverse light.

Baking soda, I promise

 

[South Texas 97]

The repair is not perfect, but it saves the original lens.

the gaskets were unresponsive- new ones on order.

Next was the bulb housings and the housing protector,

the reflectors are riveted in as part of the bulb housing, so just taped them off and blasted the housing.
the rubber grommets were cleaned and given a bath of 303 which rejuvenates them nicely.
Does anyone know the wire gauge for the rear, it looks like perhaps 16 gauge?. I plan on using the proper wiring colors, so will be ordering some Once I know the right sizes.

 

[sogncab]

New lenses are available yet. Even if you don't use them, doesn't hurt to have them sitting on the shelf.

 

[pb4ugo]

I think the wiring is 16 or 18. Coolerman sells the proper color code wire in the correct gauge. He also has the plugs and terminals. When I place an order I usually get additional items to keep in stk.

 

[South Texas 97]

Following getting started on rear lights, I thought it best to trace the wire bundle from back to front, and came across a wonderful Christmas present.

After seeing this, the battery is now disconnected and will remain so until I rebuild the rear harness, which I think includes the fuel level and the reverse switch on the gearbox.
Time to order some wire….

 

[South Texas 97]

Harness is now out. It was original with the Toyota P/N on a white label. Condition was far worse than it seemed.

I sketched up a diagram of the harness with distances, plugs and color codes, and will keep this fire hazard as a model to build against.

As the reverse pigtail is completely fried, I will check continuity on the reverse switch, which looks like it has been replaced previously. I can see it through the side of the chassis, but it looks like the transmission cover will have to at least come up, which means at least seats have to come out to lift the transmission cover.

 

[TheHardWay]

And down the rabbit hole we go - - WOOHOO!!

 

[South Texas 97]

Indeed , but did you take the blue pill or the red pill, or the one mother gave you..…
Looking at the obviously reman non Toyota alternator, it is a Wilson 90-01-4056, 72 Amp. It appears to be a three wire alternator, and it took me a bit to figure out the PO setup. There is the main WL, a green wire bunched up to one terminal, and another purplish wire, that runs up and around, and goes into a two pin plug, which, after some hunting on the diagrams gave me the windshield washer motor, a switched source of 12v to excite the alternator. Quite clever, but one more thing for the list.

to the windshield washer plug

you can see here the regulator, which while still connected, is not doing anything.

At this point I am simply tracing wires and cleaning things with the a degreaser, water and for the contacts, a contact cleaner. And lots and lots of penetrating fluid on all bolts and nuts.

Question, as this is a 72 Amp alternator, am I ok with the amp meter ( which does seem to work ok)

 

[South Texas 97]

Rag joint looks pretty flaky so ordered a new on

As I am working my way around and under the truck, I am seeing only three really bad rust spots, under the clutch pedal by the a pillar,

on the pax side rear body crossmember there is some rust jacking, which I will address when the tub comes off.

on the drivers side, it does not look bad at all.

 

[South Texas 97]

With the seats out, it is actually fairly comfortable laying on my back looking up under the dash. Note the complete removal of the emissions control computer, and it looks like the vacuum switchIng valve as well.

the area around the clutch rod is weeping, so that needs a rebuild and a new boot.

the neatly wrapped steering wheel was covering a multitude of sins. One horn button is missing completely, and the other two are ok. The horn ring actually works, used a multimeter to check the continuity which was fine.

 

[TheHardWay]

With the seats out, it is actually fairly comfortable laying on my back looking up under the dash. Note the complete removal of the emissions control computer, and it looks like the vacuum switchIng valve as well. View attachment 3204756
the area around the clutch rod is weeping, so that needs a rebuild and a new boot.
View attachment 3204764
the neatly wrapped steering wheel was covering a multitude of sins. One horn button is missing completely, and the other two are ok. The horn ring actually works, used a multimeter to check the continuity which was fine.View attachment 3204766
View attachment 3204768

Yikes ! You gonna try to restore that wheel?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

where is your head lamp switch currently mounted ?

see that small light bulb and socket zip tied off with a blue small tie there

that is your lighted knob head lamp switch back lit socket

this below TECH image is of a LATER style socket and bulb i refer to above , but same in kind , its ODD its tied off like that ?

 

[South Texas 97]

Interesting, thanks Matt, indeed the light pull has a clear lens on the front, and the switch itself looks like it should take the bulb.

looks like something else to take apart…..

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Interesting, thanks Matt, indeed the light pull has a clear lens on the front, and the switch itself looks like it should take the bulb.

View attachment 3207310View attachment 3207311
looks like something else to take apart…..

kool,

now you know ...

- share with others this knowledge you now you possesses and we will grow in numbers

 

[South Texas 97]

Well, I have been bitten by the zinc plating bug! Thought I would try this to freshen up some nuts and bolts. Want to the YouTube university for a bit, and made up a solution with distilled vinegar, salt, sugar, and a couple of zinc sheets, 2 hours at 0.3A, was about 3 volts. Made up a small production line with a 10% acid to clean, a distilled water bath, the plating solution and another water bath.
wired up some bolts and nuts and it sort of worked.

then cleaned the parts and replated them again for 45minutes, much better this time. After a small polish with a brass brush on a Dremel, they came out great.

The front Indicators were next, need new gaskets, but the bolts came out great.

Now I have to go back and do the taillight bolts……
small but useful progress while waiting on an air compressor pop off valve that died the other day.
Removed the offending horn wires added by PO. I metered out the wiring and just need a new horn relay, everything else is good.

 

[South Texas 97]

Got a box in the mail with a tie rod end kit, OEM parts, so decided to at least get things ready to put them on.
Got the front end up on jack stands, removed the wheels, which have a bunch of oil and grease on the back side, I suspect wheel seals, although the bearings sound and feel ok.
I have struggled in the past with tie rod ends, but I did buy a small tool to break loose the tapered joint. Put some tension on it, two pops with a hammer, a bit more tension, and all five simply popped off. It looks like the PO perhaps put neverseize, or some other copper colored product. Is this recommended?

will continue to clean everything up to get a better understanding of where the oil/grease is coming from.
still waiting on the air compressor safety valve to get cleaning parts moving again.

bit of a tell tale on the inside of the wheels

pressure washer tomorrow to get everything clean. Yes , these tires are very old, 2001, will be replaced before any long distance drivIng.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Got a box in the mail with a tie rod end kit, OEM parts, so decided to at least get things ready to put them on.
Got the front end up on jack stands, removed the wheels, which have a bunch of oil and grease on the back side, I suspect wheel seals, although the bearings sound and feel ok.
I have struggled in the past with tie rod ends, but I did buy a small tool to break loose the tapered joint. Put some tension on it, two pops with a hammer, a bit more tension, and all five simply popped off. It looks like the PO perhaps put neverseize, or some other copper colored product. Is this recommended?

will continue to clean everything up to get a better understanding of where the oil/grease is coming from.
still waiting on the air compressor safety valve to get cleaning parts moving again.
View attachment 3209570
View attachment 3209571
bit of a tell tale on the inside of the wheels

View attachment 3209572
pressure washer tomorrow to get everything clean. Yes , these tires are very old, 2001, will be replaced before any long distance drivIng.

make certain you install all the correct profile zerk fittings prior to installation , and PRE-GREASE then a bit first , hand oscillate the male threaded part in the ball socket a bit too

JAPAN TIE ROD ends do not simply come pre-greased from Japan ........

some have a 10mm hex service plug in them from the factory , like the 555 OEM brand and Joint Fuji OEM brand ,

i have come across all sorts of various TOYOTA 4WD trucks that still have the factory 10mm service plugs in the tie rod ends and never had a zerk fitting installed ?

and that's sad .........

 

[pb4ugo]

I would not use never sieze. The tapered joint is suppose to lock in place.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I would not use never sieze. The tapered joint is suppose to lock in place.

Got a box in the mail with a tie rod end kit, OEM parts, so decided to at least get things ready to put them on.
Got the front end up on jack stands, removed the wheels, which have a bunch of oil and grease on the back side, I suspect wheel seals, although the bearings sound and feel ok.
I have struggled in the past with tie rod ends, but I did buy a small tool to break loose the tapered joint. Put some tension on it, two pops with a hammer, a bit more tension, and all five simply popped off. It looks like the PO perhaps put neverseize, or some other copper colored product. Is this recommended?

will continue to clean everything up to get a better understanding of where the oil/grease is coming from.
still waiting on the air compressor safety valve to get cleaning parts moving again.
View attachment 3209570
View attachment 3209571
bit of a tell tale on the inside of the wheels

View attachment 3209572
pressure washer tomorrow to get everything clean. Yes , these tires are very old, 2001, will be replaced before any long distance drivIng.

mr. Pb4ugo is absolutely right here , there a primitive form of a sorta compression fitting fit theory ..