With the success and efficiency of aluminum radiators, I don't know why anyone would use anything else. Which is why I am confused that the PO of mine replaced it with a copper one just before I bought it from him. Missed opportunity.
Builds 76 Fj40 Face Lift (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Chungas Revenge
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rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Interesting. Maybe mine is just a piece of crap.
Chungas Revenge
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- #63
RGR I concur....Always had great luck w/them. But, I guess if you are a purist!!?? There is a great deal of debate regarding the correct antifreeze to use with the aluminum radiator. A.K.A. Toyota Red....Bit on the pricey side. Maybe this post will flush a chemist in the crowd to either sing it's praises or debunk it......
Toyota Genuine Fluid 00272-SLLC2 Long Life Coolant - 1 Gallon
Toyota Genuine Fluid 00272-SLLC2 Long Life Coolant - 1 Gallon
Sarge is going to start lobbing mortar rounds on me after I say this but "I do like the Blue"!!
Sarge, lob a round for me.
Chungas Revenge
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- #65
"PBR street gang this is almighty over".....Right 100...drop 100...FFE.
Did you check out my gas lines...One hot spark and there would have been a faint glow in the Appalachians......
Did you check out my gas lines...One hot spark and there would have been a faint glow in the Appalachians......
Yeah, checked those lines - looks like you squeezed a little too hard in the removal process.
Chungas Revenge
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- #67
Found some of the chassis pics. Showing the good, bad and ugly of a "field expedient" answer to an age old issue. It is the stuff of legend, in this case I take partial credit/responsibility and blame. 
Here it is in all it's "Diamond wrapped" glory.
Originally the plate was applied with small stainless bolts, I "unwrapped" it in order to look at the sheet metal. True to the sellers description it had a single hole (quarter sized) on the starboard side and a 8" line of rot about a 1/2" wide just at the welds on the port side. A couple of small surface rust areas had formed on either side. I sanded and primed IOT kill it. Each area of rust had been cut and welded with a piece of sheet metal, not a bad band- aide repair for a hunting rig. (this part is great) Before re-installing I applied 2 coats heavy Black RUST-O with a brush to the fenders. Wait it gets better. While the paint was tacky I applied 3" wide strips of Tin Tape to the painted surface. Starting at the bottom, I worked my way up. Overlapping the Tin Tape 1/2" like rolled roofing or lapped siding. I then took the Diamond plate and used a strip of Plumbers 3M Caulking tape around the entire fender (the amphibious 6x6 / 8x8 - IE Argo + MAX crowd uses this tape on their outer bearing housings to seal out H20), leaving weep holes at the low points of the fender. Next I applied 100% pure silicone around the top perimeter of the 3M tape. Double seal. Careful not to cover the weep holes...I reamed the existing bolt holes to clean them up, then I used black steel rivets to "re-wrap" the diamond plate. I think one of my ner' do well friends took pictures with his phone. I'll try and round those up for posting. This is, and was, only intended to get me through a couple of hunting seasons..And it has..So Far!
The intent, as I discussed earlier is to do the sheet metal/paint rehab this coming winter. Ole Zig is kept in a dry climate (except for hunting season). My band-aide approach was only intended as a temp fix...I added the"grote" reflector to the rear quarter as well as the step. I was/am using a gutter mount rack and the step worked like a charm for a portly man of diminished height and stature.
Also, a couple of good shots of the FJC Steelies and the Cooper S/T's.
Also, note the bad angle on the shackles....Working that OME system into the picture soon!!!!
I will now suffer in silent humility as the carpet bombing starts...
Here it is in all it's "Diamond wrapped" glory.Originally the plate was applied with small stainless bolts, I "unwrapped" it in order to look at the sheet metal. True to the sellers description it had a single hole (quarter sized) on the starboard side and a 8" line of rot about a 1/2" wide just at the welds on the port side. A couple of small surface rust areas had formed on either side. I sanded and primed IOT kill it. Each area of rust had been cut and welded with a piece of sheet metal, not a bad band- aide repair for a hunting rig. (this part is great) Before re-installing I applied 2 coats heavy Black RUST-O with a brush to the fenders. Wait it gets better. While the paint was tacky I applied 3" wide strips of Tin Tape to the painted surface. Starting at the bottom, I worked my way up. Overlapping the Tin Tape 1/2" like rolled roofing or lapped siding. I then took the Diamond plate and used a strip of Plumbers 3M Caulking tape around the entire fender (the amphibious 6x6 / 8x8 - IE Argo + MAX crowd uses this tape on their outer bearing housings to seal out H20), leaving weep holes at the low points of the fender. Next I applied 100% pure silicone around the top perimeter of the 3M tape. Double seal. Careful not to cover the weep holes...I reamed the existing bolt holes to clean them up, then I used black steel rivets to "re-wrap" the diamond plate. I think one of my ner' do well friends took pictures with his phone. I'll try and round those up for posting. This is, and was, only intended to get me through a couple of hunting seasons..And it has..So Far!
The intent, as I discussed earlier is to do the sheet metal/paint rehab this coming winter. Ole Zig is kept in a dry climate (except for hunting season). My band-aide approach was only intended as a temp fix...I added the"grote" reflector to the rear quarter as well as the step. I was/am using a gutter mount rack and the step worked like a charm for a portly man of diminished height and stature.
Also, a couple of good shots of the FJC Steelies and the Cooper S/T's.Also, note the bad angle on the shackles....Working that OME system into the picture soon!!!!
I will now suffer in silent humility as the carpet bombing starts...
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Chungas Revenge
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- #68
Found some pics of the side cover and evaporator cover "before and after" Rehab...Rattle can, but it turned out fairly well.
I don't use mortars - more of the type you wake up to standing next to your bed in the middle of a foggy night ....with my Ka-bar .
The Champion radiator is fine , except the drain cock - it's a plastic joke and the oem Toyota unit will not fit the hole correctly . I modified mine by building a drain pipe from solid ss with a brass plug/drain similar to the oem unit . Works great .
Sarge
The Champion radiator is fine , except the drain cock - it's a plastic joke and the oem Toyota unit will not fit the hole correctly . I modified mine by building a drain pipe from solid ss with a brass plug/drain similar to the oem unit . Works great .
Sarge
Chungas Revenge
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LOL - You gon'na make an ole man break out his NODS?
Shoot me a pic of you Radiator Mod or point me to a link. Like to have a gander at it...Seems to be the weak link on the Champion. U using the Toyota Red anti-freeze???
Shoot me a pic of you Radiator Mod or point me to a link. Like to have a gander at it...Seems to be the weak link on the Champion. U using the Toyota Red anti-freeze???
This thread has some details on the drain extension -
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/drain-valve-for-champion-aluminum-radiator.828903/#post-9522878
I just use the regular green glycol and change it out once a year along with a good flush . Mine had a lot of crap in the block . I also used a 1.5" Gano filter in the top thermostat hose to keep junk out of the new unit . Gano filters are from the Mustang crowd , btw...
Sarge
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/drain-valve-for-champion-aluminum-radiator.828903/#post-9522878
I just use the regular green glycol and change it out once a year along with a good flush . Mine had a lot of crap in the block . I also used a 1.5" Gano filter in the top thermostat hose to keep junk out of the new unit . Gano filters are from the Mustang crowd , btw...
Sarge
Starting at post #12 is the Gano -
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/77-fj40-overheating.810414/#post-9254530
Sarge
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/77-fj40-overheating.810414/#post-9254530
Sarge
Chungas Revenge
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Good copy...Thanks for the link..Once my plumbing is back up and functional I have some "Flushing to do"...Great tip on the Gano filters!!
Chungas Revenge
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- #74
Much obliged, I'll be taking that trail fer sure.
Liked your advice on "Burping" the rear hoses too....I am starting to realize this is not your 1st rodeo! Replied on your Hand Crank thread. Reckon I'll be on board for one of those too. Two seasons ago I was about 10 Clicks up a "Hollar" and left my key in the operate mode. Total operator head space and timing issue. Dead battery = Long walk out. Posted up your link for the GANO filters....
http://www.ganofilters.com/
Liked your advice on "Burping" the rear hoses too....I am starting to realize this is not your 1st rodeo! Replied on your Hand Crank thread. Reckon I'll be on board for one of those too. Two seasons ago I was about 10 Clicks up a "Hollar" and left my key in the operate mode. Total operator head space and timing issue. Dead battery = Long walk out. Posted up your link for the GANO filters....
http://www.ganofilters.com/
sterling
SILVER Star
Interesting thread,after your description I was expecting a much worse body.
I vote for a Sahara Tan refresh ala this thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/cooking-with-the-crockpot.804597/
But it's your truck so "do whatever the hell you want sir"
I vote for a Sahara Tan refresh ala this thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/cooking-with-the-crockpot.804597/
But it's your truck so "do whatever the hell you want sir"
Yes, I do have to say, that appears to be a meticulous diamond plate installation...
Chungas Revenge
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I know, right...Quintessential, iconic, archetypal Dune Beige....Dust trails across the Sahara, your Man Geeves handing you the big bore .577 double Rigby...Got it! Chalk one up for the Challengers...
Cavalry Blue - 4 / All Challengers - 3
Cavalry Blue - 4 / All Challengers - 3
Aluminum radiators are difficult if not impossible to repair. I think thats why people like the copper or whatever ones. The factory ones are much easier to replace if damaged. If you get a leak in the middle of nowhere because the radiator is damaged you can fix it with solder.
I like the fjcruiser blue. I also like some of the stock fj40 blue colors.
Chungas Revenge
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Well played on the blue...Sublime, subtle, ethereal Blue.... Winding down a road in the Pir Panjal range heading to Kashmir with your guide Namgyal, on your way to the last resting place of George Mallory (RIP).
Cavalry Blue - 5 / All Challengers - 3
Cavalry Blue - 5 / All Challengers - 3
