Builds 74 Pig Build

[DesertLake]

Ditto, but I'm getting really good at grinding!

And wow, do those sanding discs make a mess!

 

[DesertLake]

8 months after putting the idea together, I finally had a couple of weekends to finish it up.

First pic: comparison of the body mounts.

Next pic: the new mount in position. I cut a small notch between the firewall and the rib that runs up the firewall so that I can hammer the new mount into position and it will stay there until I weld it.

I forgot to account for the thickness of the bottom plate, so the other mounts will probably need another washer.

Final pic, the new floor patch. I drilled a 1" hole just above the bolt head, which is just large enough to fit a socket down to the bolt. I still need to clean up the welds, and fit an angled piece between the floor and rocker.

Next up, create a mirror image of the body mount, and maybe tackle the rust on the passenger side.

I'm finally admitting that I don't have time to do the body work, so after this step it is probably off to the body shop while I sort out the drive train...

 

[LC_Hamma]

Those body mount brackets look better than the factory one's. Best part is you kept it OPEN on the bottom. I'd add another plate, same size as bushing plate, up front to tie together & make rigid. How many other mounts will you have to redo? Patience is the key for bodywork & from what I've seen so far, you got the skillz

 

[DesertLake]

Thanks! Avoiding close up photography helps a lot.

I'm still debating that additional plate. When I mocked it up in cardboard I had a gusset between the two pieces oriented vertical, right about where the bend in the rear section is. This is 10 gauge, and the tie to the rocker should prevent buckling from the outside. The bend in the rear section is now a lot shallower, but it should still add a bit of strength to the inside. The drawback is it will make it harder to get at the bolt with a wrench - though now I can get to it with a socket through the floor.

 

[chicago]

Its about time you gave the cruiser some LOVE!
That is a BEEF mount brother! I need a brake that can bend 10ga.
Did you do that at work?
Body work is a PITA. I hate it, but Im a cheap SOB and dont wanna pay someone so Im stuck with it.

So you should be done about the same time I will!?

 

[DesertLake]

Yep, it took two of us on the big hand brake to do the longest bend. I finished cutting the passenger side mount last week on the big hydraulic shear and corner notch. I love those things!

 

[locrwln1]

Any updates Wil?

Jack

 

[DesertLake]

It is at a friend's body shop, as a back burner project. Which just got pushed back another 3 days because my Magnum is there too.

I'm talking to Georg about an H55/split case, things should get back on track this winter. Then again I somehow wound up as an assistant cub scouts leader, which isn't garage time enhancing.

One to two hours a week was really not enough to learn even basic body work. It does look like my floor brace is working out, but it took almost a year to build it.

I'm faster with a wrench. The 80% complete engine is in my garage now. Game plan is to get the body and drivetrain done, drive it for a year or more on the stock axles while working out the bumpers/armor/weight, then decide how to set the suspension up with the 62 axles.

 

[locrwln1]

That sounds like a plan as far as getting it road worthy, enjoying it for a little while and then putting it under the knife once more. Keep it up, looking forward to the finished product.

Jack

 

[DesertLake]

SBC question

I'm now going over the nearly complete SBC I bought from a friend. Today I noticed that there is a hole drilled and tapped from the front face of the engine all the way through to the fuel pump rod passage.

The hole is circled in the drawing below. Do any of you SBC guys know if this was supposed to be drilled all the way through?

 

[DesertLake]

Finally getting back to work...

here's how the open front body mount worked out, I'm pretty happy with it:

Now on to the back corner mounts.

There is nothing resembling metal back there...I might try to do something open like the front mounts but the way everything ties together is godawful complicated. Maybe a piece of rectangular tubing all the way across the back. Dunno yet. Ideas?

 

[LC_Hamma]

I'd vote for the "keep it open" design you already have going on. Body mount bracing on those rear corners will be dependant on how much metal you still have or want to keep. Not sure how much of the factory look you're striving for, but I would trim up the rear valance area to cut out rusted areas & even it out. Then, angle brace to the OPEN body mount. That's what I did. Mine's chopped & bobbed, so you'll want to add more of a wider bracing area, for a full length to your mount:

 

[DesertLake]

I've been focused on the engine the last few weeks, so I can crate it up and get it out of the garage. Maybe everyone else already knew how to do this, but I just learned the wet paper towel trick to remove the pilot bearing. Brilliant!

An example from YouTube:

Pilot Bearing Removal ; Quick, Clean, and easy! - YouTube

 

[ranger]

I'm now going over the nearly complete SBC I bought from a friend. Today I noticed that there is a hole drilled and tapped from the front face of the engine all the way through to the fuel pump rod passage.

The hole is circled in the drawing below. Do any of you SBC guys know if this was supposed to be drilled all the way through?

Some small blocks have the hole all the way through, others don't. Its nice to have the all the way through hole when changing out the fuel pump. A longer bolt threaded into the hole will hold the pump rod in place, so it doesn't keep sliding down when try to stab the pump arm in the hole. You just have to remember to take out the longer bolt once the pump is bolted in place.

 

[DesertLake]

Well several home repair projects later, I've gut the engine buttoned back up. Still need to rebuild the carb, and choose an accessory pulley system. Probably wait until I can test fit the engine, but I don't have the transmission yet so that will be a while. I don't recommend rebuilding an engine a half hour at a time, it's hard to remember if you torqued everything.

 

[Combat Chuck]

I'm no fan of the SBC in general, but those anodized valve covers make yours look pretty good!
I also like the black, it looks ominous.

Your body mounts are pure art!

 

[DesertLake]

Thanks! In retrospect black is going to make it hard to see and work on, but so it goes. This one can legally run a 71 chevy, so that's exactly what it will do. That's about as simple as a motor gets.

 

[Combat Chuck]

Thanks! In retrospect black is going to make it hard to see and work on, but so it goes. This one can legally run a 71 chevy, so that's exactly what it will do. That's about as simple as a motor gets.

I understand about the colour, My uncle always painted his yellow. The same effect as the OEM orange, but in his shop colours.

Would you mind explaining the legality factor?
I would assume a '74 pig would be smog exempt.

 

[PabloCruise]

I never understood why machine shops paint rebuilt engines black! It makes it so hard to spot leaks. Wait, now that I type that out, I think I understand why they "paint it black"!
My next rebuild will go battleship gray color.

 

[Combat Chuck]

I never understood why machine shops paint rebuilt engines black! It makes it so hard to spot leaks. Wait, now that I type that out, I think I understand why they "paint it black"!
My next rebuild will go battleship gray color.

I like that choice.
When I get the new motor for The Mule ordered, I'm hoping I can get it painted Teal and Yellow after my late uncle's shop's (and racing team's) colours.

Anyway, enough of my digressions!