'70 FJ40 overheating and no brake boost... booster vacuum leak? (1 Viewer)

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Jul 27, 2021
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Location
Pensacola, FL
I have a 1970 FJ40, original F engine, most everything is original as far as I know. Aftermarket temperature gauge, normally operates around 180-200 deg F. Once it gets above 200, you can tell the thermostat opens and brings the temp back down. Have had it this way for over 10 years without noticing really any abnormalities. I have driven it a couple times a month for the past 2 ish years with surprisingly no major issues. The other day I took it out and it started running very hot. Stayed around 220-230. Then I noticed the brakes were feeling pretty stiff. Stopped at Buc-ee's for a bit, then took her home. Brakes very stiff and still running hot on the drive home. Brakes were not pulling to one side, just stiff. I could stop, it just required much more force than normal and felt like there was no vacuum boost. For reference, all brake wheel cylinders were replaced a couple years ago and have given me no trouble at all since.

I found it very strange that these two seemingly unrelated systems failed at the same time after all this time. There is only one connection between the engine and brakes that I can think of: the vacuum line from the intake manifold to the brake booster. My thinking is that if the booster diaphragm is torn, obviously I won't have any brake boost and the pedal will feel stiff, as if the car is off. Also, ambient air would be leaking into the intake manifold through the brake booster. I understand if this would cause rough idle or bogging down. Is it possible this could cause overheating, too? I understand there is some correlation with A/F ratio and overheating, but for some reason it would surprise me if a vacuum leak would cause such a large increase in temperature.

I'm open to hearing what else y'all think this might be caused by! I suppose they could be caused by unrelated things, the timing was just too perfect for me to think that is likely.
 
Does it it run rough too? Plug the vacuum hose and see if it runs better. Make sure the hose is ok too. A lean condition will make it run hot and a vacuum leak will cause a lean condition.
 
When it was running hot, was the radiator cold, or hot? Have you checked the water level? If your brake booster is sucking in outside air the motor will run rough.
After running hot and then sitting for a few minutes, the coolant level was normal. I didn't pay specific attention to if the radiator was hot or cold. The air the fan was blowing was definitely hot when I had the hood up while running.
 
Does it it run rough too? Plug the vacuum hose and see if it runs better. Make sure the hose is ok too. A lean condition will make it run hot and a vacuum leak will cause a lean condition.
It wasn't running particularly rough, but my carb isn't the best so running slightly rough isn't out of the usual. I plugged the hose to see if it made a difference; couldn't tell much of a difference with the engine. I wasn't driving around, just idling in my garage though. Removing the vacuum hose from the brake booster though made no difference in the brake pedal feel. Stiff with the hose connected, stiff with it not connected. Which tells me it wasn't pulling a vacuum for one reason or another.
 
When is the last time you replaced the coolant? Have you ever drained the engine block?
 
Measure vacuum cold then measure hot. If it’s quite low, that is potentially the brake feeling. Overheating and low vacuum would mean serious running issues.

Feel upper and lower rad hoses when hot/overheating. Should be hot and less hot on the bottom.

Compression test if you’re still confused/curious.

Look along every brake line/fluid level for brake fluid loss. Top off reservoirs if they are low.
 
When is the last time you replaced the coolant? Have you ever drained the engine block?
Last time I replaced the coolant was probably close to 4 years ago now, for two of those years it just sat in a barn, then the last two driving occasionally. I've never drained the engine block.

Correct me if my logic is wrong here, but if it were an issue with the coolant or a clogged up engine block, wouldn't it manifest gradually over time, rather than coming on somewhat suddenly like it did with mine?
 
Last time I replaced the coolant was probably close to 4 years ago now, for two of those years it just sat in a barn, then the last two driving occasionally. I've never drained the engine block.

Correct me if my logic is wrong here, but if it were an issue with the coolant or a clogged up engine block, wouldn't it manifest gradually over time, rather than coming on somewhat suddenly like it did with mine?
Sounds like that’s exactly what happened, but you won’t know anything until you break out the wrenches and dig into it.
 
Suck on the vacuum pipe to test the servo.
If it leaks, then cap both ends and check if it runs cool.
Otherwise look elsewhere.

You said the coolant level was normal - did you actually open the radiator or are you just looking in the expansion bottle?

Is your viscous coupling still actually coupling?
 
Suck on the vacuum pipe to test the servo.
If it leaks, then cap both ends and check if it runs cool.
Otherwise look elsewhere.

You said the coolant level was normal - did you actually open the radiator or are you just looking in the expansion bottle?

Is your viscous coupling still actually coupling?
I'll do some of that trouble shooting.

Really just the expansion bottle. I opened the radiator cap, but can't see much there.

I have an F engine, so no fluid coupling.
 
I'll do some of that trouble shooting.

Really just the expansion bottle. I opened the radiator cap, but can't see much there.

I have an F engine, so no fluid coupling.
If you can't see fluid in the radiator then it probably needs refilling.
The neck of my filler was damaged, preventing it from sealing properly and therefore couldn't suck fluid back inside when cooling down. Also check the top seal on the cap.
 

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