Builds 68' M715, AKA "Smokey" (Can I post this Jeep on MUD?) (2 Viewers)

[Rock40]

Moved on to wrestling with the endless amount of brake tubing that needs to be bent up.

Wilwood master feeds the proportioning valve which in turn feeds the front and rear brakes. Snaking all the lines in correctly was a challenge

Once through the rear brake circuit on the proportioning valve, the fluid passes through the firewall, into the cab and into the line lock. From there, the lines divide before going into the rear cutting brakes.

 

[Rock40]

After today I’m down to ONE hard brake line left to create. Run out of tube caps so had to stop

welded the bracket for the line lock fully down…

Finished ALL the lines in the cab

Re-did the line for the front brakes

Welded up axle tabs on the front axle and made the driver side hard line

 

[aztoyman]

Nice job. I just did all the hard lines and hoses on my build. Harder than it looks and mine were NiCopp. I wouldn't want to do it with stainless but yours looks great.

 

[Rock40]

Nice job. I just did all the hard lines and hoses on my build. Harder than it looks and mine were NiCopp. I wouldn't want to do it with stainless but yours looks great.

Yes, thank you! The stainless is pretty damn hard and is prone to cracking if it isn’t set up correctly, bends very nice tho

Your truck is looking great BTW

 

[Rock40]

Merry Christmas, its tailgate season

Essentially tacked in place so I can fab the lower hinges. Upper latches are somewhat welded in for now

Temporary 1/16” spacers on the bottom welded in place. Just enough to simulate thin rubber bumpers that’ll go between the tailgate and the body. I forgot how ridiculously HEAVY the tailgate is after all the reinforcement trying to straighten the damn thing out

 

[Rock40]

NP205 time.

Setting the end play on the idler shaft. Spec is .0000”-.002” 3rd try and I got it down to 0.0005” with the nut torqued to 200ft/lbs which is money

Blasted the exposed ends of the Off Road Design twin stick rods. Should cut down on the corrosion somewhat, hit them with Steel It

Torquing the idler shaft nut for the final time with just a bit of Toyota transfer case sealant under the washer

Having a torque multiplier is a game changer and I’m not kidding. I picked up this Snap-On one used for an NV4500 job. Getting to the correct torque, to the tune of many hundreds of ft/lbs is a breeze

 

[Rock40]

Painted twin stick shaft

ORD input shaft with the large 90mm input bearing and snap ring installed. Case was machined for the 90mm bearing YEARS ago, so much for quick projects

Twin sticks installed with new shift forks, always a huge pain to get the roll pins in

Stopped here for today, should be able to get it done easily this week. HAPPY NEW YEAR

 

[Rock40]

A little more NP205 stuff

Here the tone ring is installed for the magnetic speedometer pickup. The output housing was machined by Off Road Desigen to accept the modern electronic pickup and the original threaded speedometer drive hole is capped off

Made a little 316 stainless block off plate for the idler shaft instead of re-using the boring stock one. Rear cover is in along with the sight glass mod from NW Fabrication. A bit laughable but whatever, I just think that if you don’t notice 2 quarts of gear oil on the floor that makes you somewhat the village idiot.

Everything is sealed and torqued here except the output yokes. Both front and rear yokes were upgraded to 1410 over the stock 1350

And I noticed this today, sort of cool. This case was produced only 3 days after the big Centennial celebration in ‘76

Gerald Ford was president, the Eagles were about to release Hotel California and the Seattle Seahawks played their first game that August. And just look where this unsuspecting 205 is now!

 

[WesternCruiser]

A little more NP205 stuff

Here the tone ring is installed for the magnetic speedometer pickup. The output housing was machined by Off Road Desigen to accept the modern electronic pickup and the original threaded speedometer drive hole is capped off

View attachment 3523533

Made a little 316 stainless block off plate for the idler shaft instead of re-using the boring stock one. Rear cover is in along with the sight glass mod from NW Fabrication. A bit laughable but whatever, I just think that if you don’t notice 2 quarts of gear oil on the floor that makes you somewhat the village idiot.

View attachment 3523535

Everything is sealed and torqued here except the output yokes. Both front and rear yokes were upgraded to 1410 over the stock 1350

View attachment 3523536

And I noticed this today, sort of cool. This case was produced only 3 days after the big Centennial celebration in ‘76

Gerald Ford was president, the Eagles were about to release Hotel California and the Seattle Seahawks played their first game that August. And just look where this unsuspecting 205 is now!

View attachment 3523537

Looking great, Ross! Here is the “before,” from your earlier post. So much better. Pulling it in the snow in Fairbanks, the “after” is just what I imagined.

 

[Rock40]

Wrapping up the 205…

Getting the back half of the Magnum installed here

Pulled the AA Ranger overdrive out of the truck, all that’s left now is the engine.

This is why it actually can PAY to own a media blaster. This is the front input retainer for the now discontinued Ranger. Pretty gross and it obviously got water down under the Tilton throwout bearing mechanism at some point. Not from ME, it’s been stored dry in my barn for almost 7 years AA actually does still have a few retainers but they are near $70 so I figured I’d blast it to see how bad it actually was

And to my shock, it cleaned right up. After blasting I polished the throwout bearing surface a bit and it’s good to go

 

[Rock40]

Refurbished retainer for the Ranger

Added these little bits from NW Fabrication, they allow you to adjust the detent ball pressure on the 205 shift rails. Pretty slick

And in doing all the measuring before stabbing cases together, I determined that the SM465 output shaft was going to bottom out on the bearing within the Magnum. ORD is says to just “shorten” the output shaft if that is the case and after doing the math, I determined that the shaft was about 5/16” long

So nice having to sand a custom output shaft down on a freshly rebuilt transmission

 

[Rock40]

And a bit more of the 14B…

Brakes are on, new seals and bearings in the hubs, brakes lines are in place and I verified that the Ouversion shafts fit. Still need caps for those, they’re on backorder

And if you’re in a hurry to pick up a set of PowerStop CRYO rotors for a 14B, don’t be. They took over 8 months to arrive after ordering via Summit Racing. No I’m not kidding

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I trust you loctited the magnum adapter bolts into the 205. If not, take it off and do that. I had mine loosen up after a year or two (ecobox, so slightly different, but still), and it all has to come apart to get at them.

 

[Rock40]

I trust you loctited the magnum adapter bolts into the 205. If not, take it off and do that. I had mine loosen up after a year or two (ecobox, so slightly different, but still), and it all has to come apart to get at them.

Yeah, I most certainly did, thx tho.

Having those mounting bolts up inside the Magnum is definitely a downside to that unit. The accessibility stinks, having to take it all apart like you did would really blow

 

[GLTHFJ60]

It definitely wasnt great. Killed a weekend trip. No damage though fortunately, just a very oily undercarriage.

Red loctite is my close friend now

 

[matzell]

The 205 looks great. I have put together quite a few. I use a spray tube from a brake clean can or similar to guide the roll pins in place, then use a punch to drive them in.

I hate to see rtv as a gasket maker. I was told years ago that the gasket makes up the proper spacing for the bearing retainers. Ever since I have always used the paper gaskets. For what its worth?

Project is coming together nicely.

 

[Rock40]

The 205 looks great. I have put together quite a few. I use a spray tube from a brake clean can or similar to guide the roll pins in place, then use a punch to drive them in.

I hate to see rtv as a gasket maker. I was told years ago that the gasket makes up the proper spacing for the bearing retainers. Ever since I have always used the paper gaskets. For what its worth?

Project is coming together nicely.

Oh yeah, I absolutely DID use the paper gaskets also. I’ve just always found that they leak and weep fluid which I don’t like

I use the Toyota FIPG stuff because I think it’s some of the best sealant around. I smear a paper thin layer of FIPG on the paper gaskets, install and torque. It pushes out just enough to form a thin bead of sealant both inside and outside the case.

 

[Rock40]

Went for it with the fuel tank. I’ve been putting it off a bit since I have limited experience welding aluminum. Drove out to my neighbor’s manufacturing shop where he has a really nice Miller inverter machine

Hole layout. Fillers in both ends (sides), 3/8” NPT bung each end for additional vents if needed, hole for sender and hole for the Aeromotive Phantom 340 pump

Ran a few test beads after snagging some scrap out of the recycle bin…

Decided that was plenty good enough. Welded in the 1st bung, not perfect, not terrible, unlikely to leak fuel

Setting up the baffles…

 

[Rock40]

Black ring is the setup part for the Aeromotive pump, it‘s a guide to get the holes drilled right. The other flange is for the sender

Baffles are welded in, as good as I could down inside the tank. I will also plug weld the other side in several places once the other half of the tank is in. Should be plenty stout enough to handle sloshing fuel

 

[mr jits]

I trust you loctited the magnum adapter bolts into the 205. If not, take it off and do that. I had mine loosen up after a year or two (ecobox, so slightly different, but still), and it all has to come apart to get at them.

My apologies for that. I can't even count how many times I had those cases in and out of the 40 and missed loctite on the plate.