Lol, no need to apologize! I should have checked before I put it in. They've been killer, thanks again!
Build ‘68 M715, AKA "Smokey" (Can I post this Jeep on MUD?)
- Thread starter Rock40
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Lol, no need to apologize! I should have checked before I put it in. They've been killer, thanks again!
- Thread starter
- #482
LONG shot…….
Any chance that someone might have an SM465 4WD output shaft nut available? They look like this:
For a transmission that was produced from ‘68-‘91 these nuts are very hard to find. Looked around and everyone is sold out. I’m missing mine because the transmission was originally 2WD.
Maybe you’ve got one bouncing around in your shop, I can pay
Any chance that someone might have an SM465 4WD output shaft nut available? They look like this:
For a transmission that was produced from ‘68-‘91 these nuts are very hard to find. Looked around and everyone is sold out. I’m missing mine because the transmission was originally 2WD.
Maybe you’ve got one bouncing around in your shop, I can pay
- Thread starter
- #483
After weeks of searching, two cancelled orders due to the nut not being in stock, called Mudrak and Novak and still struck out.
Finally found a nut on EBay attached to what appears to be a damaged main shaft. Offered him $25 for JUST the nut and made a deal. With what I suspect to be millions of 4WD SM465’s produced between ‘68-‘91 it absolutely boggles my mind that sourcing this silly nut was so difficult
Finally found a nut on EBay attached to what appears to be a damaged main shaft. Offered him $25 for JUST the nut and made a deal. With what I suspect to be millions of 4WD SM465’s produced between ‘68-‘91 it absolutely boggles my mind that sourcing this silly nut was so difficult
- Thread starter
- #486
No, that actually didn’t occur to me. Part of me wonders if you’d get laughed at trying to source a part for an outdated trans that’s at LEAST 35 years old
- Thread starter
- #487
Got a little more fuel tank work done yesterday, had my cousin out here to assist with getting the two halves together.
- Thread starter
- #488
Friday = Fuel Tank Day
Completed all the final outside corner joint welding, added bolt down tabs and one final 3/8” NPT bung
Could not TIG at ALL when I started this project. 7 years of TIG practice on steel really pays off
Got to play with the shear at my neighbors fabrication shop today also. The thing is terrifying and awesome, it’s capable of shearing a 6’ wide, 1/4” thick piece of steel clean off.
Sheared two extra mounts for the tank and walked away with 10 fingers.
Completed all the final outside corner joint welding, added bolt down tabs and one final 3/8” NPT bung
Could not TIG at ALL when I started this project. 7 years of TIG practice on steel really pays off
Got to play with the shear at my neighbors fabrication shop today also. The thing is terrifying and awesome, it’s capable of shearing a 6’ wide, 1/4” thick piece of steel clean off.
Sheared two extra mounts for the tank and walked away with 10 fingers.
Nice work 
- Thread starter
- #490
The weather has turned and I got back into this today since it’s too cold, wet and miserable to work outside
New Melling oil pump. Installed a new pickup tube, upgrade driveshaft with a metal retention collar, new pan gasket and bolted it back in
Using an Aeromotive Phantom for the fuel pump. Had to extend the pump mount with a chunk of stainless since the tank is so deep.
New Melling oil pump. Installed a new pickup tube, upgrade driveshaft with a metal retention collar, new pan gasket and bolted it back in
Using an Aeromotive Phantom for the fuel pump. Had to extend the pump mount with a chunk of stainless since the tank is so deep.
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- Thread starter
- #491
Got after the clutch and flywheel
I don’t think that GM ever intended to bolt a manual trans behind the 8.1
Did some careful measurements of the bellhousing, crank and input shaft depths. It’s QUITE possible to drive the input bearing so far into the crank that only the tip of the transmission input shaft would be supported by the bearing. Not good. With the bearing essentially “centered” on the input shaft, it’s 6” from the rear face of the bellhousing to the front face of the input bearing
Installed the flywheel with ARP bolts. The old chunk of flex plate is merely temporarily wedged in place to keep the flywheel from turning while torquing the bolts to 85 ft/lbs. Works REALLY well
I don’t think that GM ever intended to bolt a manual trans behind the 8.1
Did some careful measurements of the bellhousing, crank and input shaft depths. It’s QUITE possible to drive the input bearing so far into the crank that only the tip of the transmission input shaft would be supported by the bearing. Not good. With the bearing essentially “centered” on the input shaft, it’s 6” from the rear face of the bellhousing to the front face of the input bearing
Installed the flywheel with ARP bolts. The old chunk of flex plate is merely temporarily wedged in place to keep the flywheel from turning while torquing the bolts to 85 ft/lbs. Works REALLY well
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- Thread starter
- #492
Centerforce dual friction clutch is in…
Played some more rounds of “JUST FITS” with the AA clutch slave cylinder. Had to grind just a touch off the bellhousing and it’s definitely going to need heat shielding wrap to avoid boiling the fluid next to the exhaust. Just clears the oil filter also
Put the Centerforce throw out bearing on a new GM pivot arm, installed an adjustable pivot ball then slid the AA Ranger into place and bolted it in
When it comes time to pull the 8.1 (soon) this’ll come out as a complete assembly
Played some more rounds of “JUST FITS” with the AA clutch slave cylinder. Had to grind just a touch off the bellhousing and it’s definitely going to need heat shielding wrap to avoid boiling the fluid next to the exhaust. Just clears the oil filter also
Put the Centerforce throw out bearing on a new GM pivot arm, installed an adjustable pivot ball then slid the AA Ranger into place and bolted it in
When it comes time to pull the 8.1 (soon) this’ll come out as a complete assembly
- Thread starter
- #493
Ok….. where were we? Getting back into this as time and crummy weather permits
Started mounting some aircraft style tie downs in the bed. This is stuff from Mac’s Custom Tie Downs, very nice with the removable rings
Started mounting some aircraft style tie downs in the bed. This is stuff from Mac’s Custom Tie Downs, very nice with the removable rings
- Thread starter
- #494
Started plumbing the fuel system now that the tank is in
Aeromotive regulator and Aeromotive 10 micron filter. Tucked up nice and high out of the way
Aeromotive regulator and Aeromotive 10 micron filter. Tucked up nice and high out of the way
- Thread starter
- #495
Started working on the PSC ram and double sheer steering attachment. Had another piece of 7075 machined to incorporate a TMR joint (rebuildable) into the driver side tie rod connection. Also had the Reid knuckle machined out to 3/4” ID in order to pass a Grade 8 bolt through both the knuckle and high steer arm
Mocked up the ram to determine where I ideally wanted it to go…
Started making an axle bracket out of 2”x3” .25 wall tubing. The ram has to mount above the axle centerline in order to clear the bump stop bracket and tie rod as it cycles
Mocked up the ram to determine where I ideally wanted it to go…
Started making an axle bracket out of 2”x3” .25 wall tubing. The ram has to mount above the axle centerline in order to clear the bump stop bracket and tie rod as it cycles
- Thread starter
- #496
Cut out new, longer brackets to make this all work. Much bigger than the ones PSC provides and hopefully they can carry the extra load of being longer/ram further away from the axle mount.
You gave me some good ideas for mine. I was going to clamp something to the tie rod but tying into the double sheer is way better. Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #499
Thx! Been so busy working on the shop that this has definitely fallen by the wayside. Enjoy working with metal SO much better
- Thread starter
- #500
Yeah, I bounced a lot of ideas around, a tubing clamp on the tie rod was one of them. With the Reid knuckles and the 5 stud high steer arms, this is the strongest mounting point by FAR. Just had to have the arm bolted to the knuckle so it could all be bored straight for the 3/4” bolt